catbirdseat Posted June 29, 2003 Share Posted June 29, 2003 The original plan had been to climb on Sunday, but predicted bad weather for that day forced us to depart on Friday and climb on Saturday. Six of us met at 65th St. Park and Ride in Seattle and headed south in two vehicles. Traffic was very bad and it was hot. Met seventh climber in S. Tacoma and took his car along for the car shuttle. Stopped near Wood Village for supper of all you can eat spaghetti and salad. Arrived at 8:30 at Timberline, registered for climb and left James' car there. Met our 8th climber, at Cloud Cap CG at 10 pm. Hit sack at 11 pm, but were disturbed by other climbers coming and going. Got up at 1:30 am and were on trail by 2:10 am. First 2,000 ft were mostly snow free walking on moraine. There was one loose and steep section but mostly it was trail and easy to follow. Encountered three climbers who had departed an hour before. They were headed out after being paged for rescue work on Mt. Adams. They were bummed, all right, about having to abandon their climb. "How can someone fall down and get hurt on the South Spur of Adams, for chrissakes? Roped up at "ropeup rock" at approx. 8,500 ft of elevation around 6 am. There was some evidence of avalanche, just some surface slough from the previous day. I lead the first roped pitch to above the avy debris without placing any pro. The snow was rather soft and I could kick steps to 3/4 of my boot length with just one kick. Just above the avalanche debris at about 9,200 ft we began placing pickets and flukes. James led this pitch at first placed just one piece per rope length and then as it steeped to about 45 degrees two per rope length. Jula led the next pitch to a slot between two rock outcroppings at about 10,800 ft. This part is the one most prone to rock fall. About every ten minutes a fist sized rock would tumble down, usually on the left of the climbers, but sometimes passing between or even bounding over their heads! Wear helmets!!!! James led the final pitch to the summit again placing pro, but the snow was so soft, and the slope so moderate, it wasn't really necessary. We topped out at about 10 am (8 hours), which is about average for a less experienced group, such as ourselves. There were a lot of people on the summit and we left after a large group and had to wait above the pearly gates for them to clear out. Harlan led from Pearly gates to the Hogsback, placing about 4 or 5 pickets on the way down. The bergschrund was wide open, but was easily crossed at its west end. We unroped at the hogsback. Some removed crampons here and the remainder below Crater Rock. The glassades were great. This is a route where experienced climbers probably wouldn't need to place pickets, but we had four novice climbers and so we chose to do running belays for the steep part from ca. 9,200 to 10,800 ft. Likewise, experienced climbers would have no trouble downclimbing the route, or taking Sunshine back to Cloud Cap rather than doing the car shuttle, as we did. Given our pace and the warm conditions, we would have been better off leaving at midnight to avoid the rock fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Over 24 picket/fluke placements! Perfect conditions, great snow, no ice, some rock-fall. Continuous angle, I used my other hand for balance while kicking steps. This is an impressive rt. No falls allowed. Very little chance of self arrest. A popular place to die on Hood. I would not recomend roping yourself to a dead-weight climber unless you place good pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 The first time I climbed Mt. Hood (many years ago) we arrived at the summit and a large crowd was assembled peering over the north side. Apparently, a husband and wife had just fallen off the northside while beginning their descent. They died. Soft snow and balling crampons were blamed. Sad. Conclusion: Place pro or don't rope up. You might want to think about getting some anti-balling plates too. Good job placing all that pro. Takes discipline on relatively easy terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 (edited) Funny you should mention antiballing plates. The last time I was on Hood was in early February and I remember having trouble with balling up on my "cookie-cutter" B/D Makos. I had to go into self-arrest just below the Pearly Gates when my crampons balled up without my realizing it. This time I had some home made plates made out of a Coleman cutting board. They worked great! I should mention that dryad was on the climb and it was her first volcano ever and her first alpine climb when it comes down to it. Let's to dryad. Edited June 30, 2003 by catbirdseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 I have to say I had a REALLY REALLY REALLY awesome time! I couldn't have asked for a better first alpine climb. Thank you catbirdseat for leading such a great trip! I can't wait to see the pictures. BTW, the weather was absolutely georgeous. Not a cloud in the sky, infinite visibility, pleasantly warm with a balmy breeze while on the route. I know the rope leads were kinda disappointed by the lack of icy conditions as they had brought ice tools and screws, but I for one was perfectly content following in catbird's big giant bootprints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Looks like I missed all you guys by less than a day. But, you picked the right day. Coming down Coop, Friday morning the wind was gusting to maybe 70. I got a rash on my leg ,though mid weight Capaline, from blown corn. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I think balling up crampons is one of the scariest things in the mountains. I used a pair of poons with anti-balling plates for the first time the other day. I think I may start using them myself. it definitely beats the step, step, whack routine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 shredmaximus said: Good job guys! I think we saw you topping out on the climb as we were approaching the snowdome. It was a great day on the Mountain on Sat. and I can't belive how few people there were considering they just opened the road. Everybody must have been on Adams! Coinsidering I saw 6 people thurs. morning - how many were up on Sat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 There was something we saw on the ridge that I had forgotten about. A stone with a flat surface had been engraved with Japanese or Chinese Characters plus an unreadable English script that appeared to be a name or names. It was dated 1910. Does anyone know anything about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Crampons balling up: 9 times out of 10, this is your to warning to take the succers off. The last time I had to hold a fall on snow was when an A.A.C. (Fairbanks) student slipped on balled up snow. Trust your axe, ditch the crampons on soft snow. Japanese on the rock. I don't suppose you got picks? Let's climb Sunshine and take annother look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I think it is a memorial to a climbing accident way back. Remember, Cooper Spur was the original "standard" route on Hood long before Timberline or T-line road were around. At one point a steel cable was hauled up the route for people to use as a hand line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gslater Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 iain said: I think it is a memorial to a climbing accident way back. Remember, Cooper Spur was the original "standard" route on Hood long before Timberline or T-line road were around. At one point a steel cable was hauled up the route for people to use as a hand line. If I recall correctly, William Sullivan's hiking book (the red one) says that it's just an inscription left by a Japanese climbing party way back when, and is not a memorial of any sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 hmm guess I would go w/ sullivan then since I can't remember where I heard the accident story. There are other memorial plaques right there for other climbing parties that have fallen off the route too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I've only heard stories about people falling off the route, I haven't gotten around to doing it (climbing the route) yet. When I do, I'll prolly use a running belay unless the snow conditions are really good. Something about the fact that they know exactly where to go look for your body on the Eliot Glacier doesn't sit right with me. Congrats on your climb and congrats to Dryad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 for convenience's sake it would be good of you to fall off before the bergschrund opens up on the eliot g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 would it make your life easier if I had the common courtesy to do something like rupture my spleen somewhere below crater rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Ursa_Eagle said: would it make your life easier if I had the common courtesy to do something like rupture my spleen somewhere below crater rock? Nah... The ski camps will take care of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Here are some pix. I didn't take them, hence I'm in them. I swear i'm not just an attention whore. The ascent route View of the Elliott Glacier and approach ridge On the upper slopes Waiting to descend through the Pearly Gates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Nice pix, Dryad! Shread, did you notice much rock fall down the west gully or Elliot head wall Saturday? The West Gully was a fucking bowling alley Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 I saw tons coming down the west gully Saturday, even took a 15 second video of some of the good stuff. Didn't see much on the Elliot headwall though. Here's a pic: http://www.inetarena.com/~jbrock/hood_snowdome/DSCN0828.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 cooper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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