lummox Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 wtf is ALPS? association of liposuction plastic surgeons? Quote
sobo Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 ALPS is Alps. Â Probably a fat-finger b/w "a" and "caps lock". Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Author Posted June 2, 2003 come on... I know some of you wanks got a book ya wanna loan me to copy and have route recommendations What alps routes would you do if you only had one week to climb? Quote
Dru Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Eiger Mordwand Dru Cuoloir Walker Spur Bellavista Peutery Integral  That should be a fun week  How come French, German, Austrian but not Swiss. Are you allergic to chocolate and cuckoo clocks? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Author Posted June 2, 2003 Dru said: How come French, German, Austrian but not Swiss. Are you allergic to chocolate and cuckoo clocks? you have a place to stay in Switzerland and I will go! and i always hated those neutral sissies Quote
sobo Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Szyjakowski said: come on... I know some of you wanks got a book ya wanna loan me to copy and have route recommendations What alps routes would you do if you only had one week to climb?  Matterhorn, Lion route Aguille du Midi, anything Mont Blanc, tourista route, but midweek. Petit Dru Ditto Dru on the Walker Spur  If you've got time to head to Cassis, get to Les Calanques and trip out on some of the stuff that Gaston Rebuffat put up way back when. I soloed a bunch of it about 4 years ago on our engagement trip. I've got a guidebook, but you have to be able to read Freedom (my then-fiance'/now-wife can, so the guidebook worked for me).  Ride the cable car from Punta Hillbrunner (Italian side) to Chamonix. Bring a "friend" for the "Halfway to Heaven Tango" We did! Quote
fern Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 I have an english-language guidebook "The Alpine 4000ers by their Classic Routes" you are welcome to borrow. I've never been to the Alps so I don't know how good a guide it is. Quote
David_Parker Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 You forgot the "sunny" side of the Alps and the country with the longest east/west amount of them....Italy. If you like hordes of people, lining up for climbs, unreliable weather, lots of attitude, go to Chamonix. If not, check out the Dolomites. Quote
wdietsch Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 along the same lines as David Parker's suggestion to avoid the crowds also consider the "Parc des Ecrin' sub range of the Alps .... Pelvoux, La Meije, L'Aliefroide and Barre des Ecrins. This area gives good access to some great routes from rock to ice and mixed with few crowds. In late summer be carefull with your water source. Some areas are still activly used to graze sheep and other livestock. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Author Posted June 2, 2003 yeah but the free accomadations are in the alps... thanks for the beta keep it coming. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Author Posted June 2, 2003 oh ya know i was thinkin of sport bouldering and tribal group bondage with all those coolass europeans.... doesn't the title of thread suggest what i want to climb? long...fun....splitters and such Quote
j_b Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 what about the Grand Capucin in Cham (actually closer to Courmayeur)  http://www.mountainarea.com/capucin/main.html http://perso.clubinternet.fr/ploum2/montagne/grandcapucin/grandcapucin.htm  15-20 pitches (mandatory 5.10) on some of the best granite i ever saw. you could go up the italian tram (to torino hut), set up camp on the glacier du geant and climb a bunch of lines at mt. blanc du tacul (gervasutti pillar, chere couloir, tour ronde, and grand cap of course)  http://www.nosiesta.net/mbdutacul.htm http://www.mountainarea.com/tacul/main.html   Quote
glassgowkiss Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 (edited) i think italian alps kick ass. aosta valley has a bunch of longer rock (granite) routes. Grand Capucin, Fou, Agille de Blatier- some killer rock routes. West face of Dru- Dirrecte Americane (go all the way instead only to the Bloque). Stick rather to rock in the summer- you'll live longer. With a recent warming trends some of the classic mixed/ snow/ ice routes in the middle of the summer might be hazardous to your health. Courmayer is much cooler hang then Chamonix. For less traveled areas i would recommend Pitz Badille on the border of Italy and Switzerland. For Chaminix area the guide to use is one by Piola. Consider going to the Dolomites. Free camping on the meadows below the towers, good wine and A LOT of good rock climbing. on the weather days go craging. hope it helps Edited June 3, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote
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