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Posted

Eiger Mordwand

Dru Cuoloir

Walker Spur

Bellavista

Peutery Integral

 

That should be a fun week

 

How come French, German, Austrian but not Swiss. Are you allergic to chocolate and cuckoo clocks? yellaf.gifyellaf.gif

Posted
Dru said:

How come French, German, Austrian but not Swiss. Are you allergic to chocolate and cuckoo clocks? yellaf.gifyellaf.gif

you have a place to stay in Switzerland and I will go!

and i always hated those neutral sissies shocked.gif

yellaf.gif

Posted
Szyjakowski said:

come on... I know some of you wanks got a book ya wanna loan me to copy and have route recommendations

What alps routes would you do if you only had one week to climb?

bigdrink.gif

 

Matterhorn, Lion route

Aguille du Midi, anything

Mont Blanc, tourista route, but midweek.

Petit Dru

Ditto Dru on the Walker Spur

 

If you've got time to head to Cassis, get to Les Calanques and trip out on some of the stuff that Gaston Rebuffat put up way back when. I soloed a bunch of it about 4 years ago on our engagement trip. I've got a guidebook, but you have to be able to read Freedom (my then-fiance'/now-wife can, so the guidebook worked for me).

 

Ride the cable car from Punta Hillbrunner (Italian side) to Chamonix. Bring a "friend" for the "Halfway to Heaven Tango" smileysex5.gifwink.gif We did! thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

Posted

I have an english-language guidebook

"The Alpine 4000ers by their Classic Routes" you are welcome

to borrow. I've never been to the Alps so I don't know how

good a guide it is.

Posted

You forgot the "sunny" side of the Alps and the country with the longest east/west amount of them....Italy. If you like hordes of people, lining up for climbs, unreliable weather, lots of attitude, go to Chamonix. If not, check out the Dolomites.

Posted

along the same lines as David Parker's suggestion to avoid the crowds also consider the "Parc des Ecrin' sub range of the Alps .... Pelvoux, La Meije, L'Aliefroide and Barre des Ecrins. This area gives good access to some great routes from rock to ice and mixed with few crowds.

In late summer be carefull with your water source. Some areas are still activly used to graze sheep and other livestock.

Posted

oh ya know i was thinkin of sport bouldering and tribal group bondage with all those coolass europeans....

cantfocus.gif

doesn't the title of thread suggest what i want to climb?

long...fun....splitters and such bigdrink.gif

Posted

what about the Grand Capucin in Cham (actually closer to Courmayeur)

 

http://www.mountainarea.com/capucin/main.html

http://perso.clubinternet.fr/ploum2/montagne/grandcapucin/grandcapucin.htm

 

15-20 pitches (mandatory 5.10) on some of the best granite i ever saw. you could go up the italian tram (to torino hut), set up camp on the glacier du geant and climb a bunch of lines at mt. blanc du tacul (gervasutti pillar, chere couloir, tour ronde, and grand cap of course)

 

http://www.nosiesta.net/mbdutacul.htm

http://www.mountainarea.com/tacul/main.html

 

 

Posted (edited)

i think italian alps kick ass. aosta valley has a bunch of longer rock (granite) routes. Grand Capucin, Fou, Agille de Blatier- some killer rock routes. West face of Dru- Dirrecte Americane (go all the way instead only to the Bloque). Stick rather to rock in the summer- you'll live longer. With a recent warming trends some of the classic mixed/ snow/ ice routes in the middle of the summer might be hazardous to your health.

Courmayer is much cooler hang then Chamonix. For less traveled areas i would recommend Pitz Badille on the border of Italy and Switzerland.

For Chaminix area the guide to use is one by Piola.

Consider going to the Dolomites. Free camping on the meadows below the towers, good wine and A LOT of good rock climbing.

on the weather days go craging.

hope it helps bigdrink.gif

Edited by glassgowkiss

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