Bill_Simpkins Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Is it cool to climb there yet? I know some people do even if it's not, but I don't want to contribute to risking access. What's the scoop? Quote
Travis Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 From the Access Society website.... May 2003 Please post/circulate! LOWER MALEMUTE CLOSURE B.C. Rail expressed concerns about climbing at the lower Malemute in autumn 2001. Discussion and planning led to the Action Plan for Access, which was presented to B.C. Rail in May 2002. We believed the Action Plan addressed many if not all of the concerns, and that it was the kind of proposal that was needed, perhaps subject to discussion of the details, and implementation. CASBC received a written response from B.C. Rail to the Action Plan in early April 2003, in which the company unecquivocally stated its position, as follows: B.C. Rail will not grant public access to the lower Malemute. Any person on B.C. Rail property is considered a trespasser, and trespassers are subject to arrest or a $115 fine. (B.C. Rail’s property is all land within eight m/25 feet (horizontally) of the centre of the train tracks, on both sides. About half the climbs at the lower Malemute, and some access routes, are on B.C. Rail property. If you use any of these, or the tracks, you are trespassing.) B.C. Rail police advise us that climbers have been observed on the tracks on recent occasions, most recently the weekend of 11th/12th May, and that it plans to put up no trespassing signs and take enforcement action. Fixed anchors for climbs/pitches on the B.C. Rail right-of-way have been or may soon be removed by climbers. The main (north end) access trail may be blocked, before it reaches the tracks, and an information sign posted. Some climbs (or the upper pitches of climbs) and access routes at the lower Malemute are not on the B.C. Rail right-of-way. They are on undeveloped private land, as are climbs at the upper Malemute. We hope to publish a list of those climbs/pitches. CASBC wrote to B.C. Rail, noting that climbing at the lower Malemute is long-established, that the climbs there are internationally-known, and that many climbs/pitches at the lower Malemute are not on B.C. Rail property. We suggested a co-operative approach to these matters. Please don’t climb on B.C. Rail property at the lower Malemute! CASBC does not condone climbing there under any circumstances. We will publicize any further news as quickly as possible. More here... http://casbc.bivouac.com/news/access34.htm Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 so...since access is permanentl denied... i guess we can all go climb there taking our chances and risk the fines if we wanna? climb fast and climb quiet... Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Access if fucked already. Stay away or be fined. There was a huge portion of the latest CASBC letter stating so like mentioned above. Plenty of other crags to hit up anyway. Quote
dalius Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 Fucking sucks. That crag is stellar. Nothing like cragging on the Lower Malamute at sunset. I hear they're not kidding about the ticket thing either. BC rail is some sort of federal or provincial establishment, so tickets are not to be taken lightly. I can just see getting denied entry to Canada due to an unpaid Lower Malamute climbing ticket. Fuckers. I piss on them from a considerable height. Quote
klar404 Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 here's a link to a topo I JACKED of the internet of the upper Malamute. upper malamute LEGAL PLACE TO CLIMB I would not advise climbing at the lower Malamute until something is worked out. The topo is a couple of years old... but it still works. Quote
dalius Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 The problem is, that NOTHING IS GOING TO BE WORKED OUT! The scoop is that BC Rail doesn't give a rat's ass what climbers think and basically laughed at the Access Fund and whoever else was involved trying to keep it open. Supposedly there was absolutely ZERO discussion on BC Rail's part. They made their decision long before they were shown any reports. They do not care. Climb there at your own risk. I guess, techincally, they have a right of way of 7m or so each way from the centerline of the track. That corridor touches the rock at points. People volunteered to put up a fence to keep people out of this corridor, funded by climbers and all, but they do not want it end of discussion. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 22, 2003 Posted May 22, 2003 th shitty thing is that you have to rap to do most of the upper routes if you dont do the lower ones if i remember right...that sucks ballz...$115 monopoly money tho...that is somehting to consider... Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 28, 2003 Author Posted May 28, 2003 I am planning on climbing U WALL this weekend. I read the recent access report, but I am wondering if anyone knows if U WALL is shut down from falcon nesting. Would hate to drive up ther and see a sign. Thanks. Quote
fern Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 nothing is shut down for falcons yet AFAIK. U Wall has never been part of those closures in the past and is unlikely to be affected this year. HOWEVER, last year the falcon closure included the Bellygood escape which means to exit U-Wall you had to either climb the Roman Chimneys to the summit or rap down from Dance Platform. you do know that U-Wall is not on the Lower Malemute though right Quote
whirlwind Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: so...since access is permanentl denied... i guess we can all go climb there taking our chances and risk the fines if we wanna? climb fast and climb quiet... and make sure you tie off to the tracks i herd they make a bomber anker Quote
Dru Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 The following is an excerpt from Access News #35, the Climbers' Access Society of B.C.'s newsletter. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- LOWER MALEMUTE All climbers should be aware that B.C. Rail refuses public access to its right-of-way at the lower Malemute; it considers anyone on its property to be a trespasser, subject to arrest or a $115 fine. B.C. Rail?s property is all land within 8m horizontally of the centre of its tracks, on both sides. About half the climbs at the lower Malemute, and access routes, are affected. B.C. Rail recently placed a warning sign where the main lower Malemute access trail reaches the tracks, and is considering other action. Malemute-related developments: ¨ On 19th July an American climber fell off Clean Crack and was hurt. Squamish Search & Rescue evacuated him, using a B.C. Rail speeder. On 6th August, Michael Riley fell off Clean Crack, was hurt, and evacuated by Squamish Search & Rescue, again using a B.C. Rail speeder. ¨ The provincial government plans to sell B.C. Rail. It is reported that one of the possible buyers may discontinue rail service in this area, and eventually remove the tracks. ¨ The intertidal area in front of the Malemute is being filled in, part of the expansion of the log sort. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted August 20, 2003 Posted August 20, 2003 Dru said: On 19th July an American climber fell off Clean Crack and was hurt. Squamish Search & Rescue evacuated him, using a B.C. Rail speeder. On 6th August, Michael Riley fell off Clean Crack, what up with clean crack? spit out two climbers in a little over two weeks! Quote
snoboy Posted August 20, 2003 Posted August 20, 2003 thelawgoddess said: Dru said: On 19th July an American climber fell off Clean Crack and was hurt. Squamish Search & Rescue evacuated him, using a B.C. Rail speeder. On 6th August, Michael Riley fell off Clean Crack, what up with clean crack? spit out two climbers in a little over two weeks! The question is, what's up with the climbers??? Quote
thelawgoddess Posted August 20, 2003 Posted August 20, 2003 snoboy said: The question is, what's up with the climbers??? you got it. that's what i was really thinking! Quote
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