fleblebleb Posted May 10, 2003 Posted May 10, 2003 Alright, I tied this DBBB thing and it's the ugliest, ungainliest knot anyone has had the gall to suggest weaving a rope into. Then I read the Climbing Ragazine "article" suggesting it as the knot of choice for the tie-in, replacing "... the figure-8, the knot taught to beginners, and the one that most people continue to use to tie in to their harnesses..." What did I learn from that? Well, it seems starting a day of alpine climbing with a 40' fall off an overhang would be an excellent idea, since then I'd be all that more certain my trusty old figure-8 would stay welded through the next 10-20 hours or so. Now that's handy. Anyways. To top it off, after playing with this uglyness for a little while it became clear that the picture is wrong. There is a different way to dress it that result in a bit more palatable weave - which is nice because it becomes easier to check. I'm still sticking to the figure-8 though. Otherwise I'd just tie a regular bowline with a Yosemite finish. That's a fairly elegant knot. Quote
jon Posted May 10, 2003 Posted May 10, 2003 I climb on almost the same knot, except I reweave it through the two loops and tie the end off on the rope leading out. What I like about this knot is that I'm a little heavier then others, and after taking a fall or hanging on the rope and the crag I have a hard time getting a figure 8 undone. With this you can get out in 10 seconds everytime. Once you learn it, it's easy as hell tie. Drawback is that most people don't know how to tie it so they can't really check your knot, so I always leave the option to my partner for me to use an 8. Quote
fleblebleb Posted May 10, 2003 Author Posted May 10, 2003 Right-o, I think that's the Yos finish variant. Quote
Sphinx Posted May 10, 2003 Posted May 10, 2003 You're right, I tried tying this damn knot and it's useless. I'd be worried about it coming undone on my Galaxy. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 11, 2003 Posted May 11, 2003 The single bowline with the Yosemite finish is an easy to tie, clean-looking and safe knot. If you want to be extra cautious, throw in a half-fisherman's, but that is unnecessary. Quote
Pencil_Pusher Posted May 12, 2003 Posted May 12, 2003 I'd guess this is like Microsoft and Linux. Both may be great in their own respect, but everyone uses Microsoft. Incidentally, I know of someone who'd tied in with a bowline and it came undone and fell to the ground, while that climber was on lead. Part of the problem was the follower did not know how to check the knot (I guess it was tied wrong). I don't know how to check the knot either. So if you're going to fall repeatedly and untie each time (?) why not just use a figure8 on a bite, clipped in to the harness? The climbing gyms don't particularly like that, but it sure saves time. Quote
Gordonb Posted May 12, 2003 Posted May 12, 2003 I like the DBBB because of the ease of untying after it has been loaded. Plus once it has been properly dressed it is much more compact than a figure 8. I have never had the knot losen even a little when climbing. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 12, 2003 Posted May 12, 2003 fleblebleb said: Alright, I tied this DBBB thing and [kvetch, kvetch, kvetch] It's worth noting that Dr. Flash Amazing, sports climbing know-nothing-knot-related non-bowline-tyer extroardinaire was able to successfully and satisfactorily learn to tie this knot into quite the trim and bomber tie-in mechanism. Maybe your alpine ass just needs to practice a little more, 'cause it's far from complicated, and if executed correctly, is a thing of beauty and top-notch function, and not the misshapen monstrosity you describe. Back to the 'Klutz Book of Knots', gaper! Quote
fleblebleb Posted May 12, 2003 Author Posted May 12, 2003 Correctly isn't the way the picture shows it. Ugly is the way the picture shows it. Actually, I bet DFA tied his dick into a knot and looking down found it all trim and bomber. Get a clue sporto! You're supposed to look more like a chickenhead than a crack down there. And your weenie can stay attached on its own, no need for a tie-in! Loser. But it's all quite alright, DFA has no need for his manhood unknotted, well, except for pissing, but since there is piss and shit coming out of his head already things definitely haven't gotten any worse with one little knot. Cheerio! Oops, sorry, unmentionable cereal. Didn't mean to get you aroused DFA. But I bet it still fits, knot or not, no worries. Quote
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