gapertimmy Posted May 4, 2003 Posted May 4, 2003 Stolen from Access Fund Site, but good info: General Climbing Restrictions North Carolina Climbing-Site Closures for Peregrine Falcons Climbers and Raptors: How climbing restrictions are set up and managed The climbing areas listed below have had seasonal restrictions in the past. Most of these are to protect cliff-nesting raptors during the Spring period. Where possible the latest information is given, but always check signs on site; birds shift nest sites, restrictions may be lifted early or removed entirely. If you need more information before visiting these areas check the website listed or call the land management agency contact. This page will be updated on a regular basis between January and August each year. If you have any comments or more recent information than is listed here, please call us Tel: 303/545-6772, or email: shawn@accessfund.org. We welcome your feedback so that the Access Fund can work with land managers to produce the most practical arrangements. Updated March 2003 California Yosemite National Park 3 Restrictions in effect on cliffs including Lower Cathedral, Rhombus Wall, Glacier Point & Hetch Hetchy. Note: not Half Dome or El Cap from Feb. 1st - August 1st. Contact: Steve Thompson - Wildlife Biologist Tel: 209/379-3261. Pinnacles National Monument Restrictions include Central High Peaks, Balconies, The Little Pinnacles (Yaks Wall Area), The Scout Peak area, Goat Rock & Resurrection Wall and are in affect from Feb. 1 - June 30. Contact: Amy Fesnock, Wildlife Biologist, National Monument Information Center Tel: 831/389-4485 x 223 or check Friends of Pinnacles Web site www.pinnacles.org/climbing/index.html. Note: The Access Fund provided $3000 grant funding to the NPS to help a budget shortfall for raptor monitoring at climbing areas for 2001. Cleveland National Forest Restriction on the main wall of Corte Madera from Feb. 1st - June 31st. Contact: Kirstin Winter, District Wildlife Biologist Tel: 619/673-6180. Sequoia National Forest, Hume Lake District, Chimney Rock Area Closure Crystal Wall north to Sasquatch Spire including the Monk, Moccasin Ridge and Chimney Rock from 300' east of the ridge to the Forest Service boundary. This closure complements a closure on National Park system lands for the same geologic features west of the Forest Service boundary. Closure is in effect from the date of signature until Forest Service or NPS biologists confirm that young falcons have fledged and dispersed (generally August 1), the nest is abandoned or there is reason to believe that public presence will not adversely affect the nesting falcons. Contact: Mary Allison, Hume Lake Ranger District 559/338-2251. Eldorado National Forest Lover's Leap - Restriction from March 1- June 30. Contact: Debbie Gaynor - Placerville Ranger Station Tel: 530/644-2324. Idaho City of Rocks West face of Window Rock, West face of Nematode Restrictions in effect from April 15 - June 15. Contact: City of Rocks National Reserve, Climbing Ranger - Brad Shilling Tel: 208/824-5563. Black Cliffs (near Boise) Nixon Head and Wailing Wall. Restrictions in effect from Feb 1 - June 30. Contact: Bruce Haak, Idaho Department of Fish and Game Tel: 208/465-8465. Oregon Smith Rock State Park The Monument - 1 restriction from February 15th- August 1st Contact: Jay Schleier, Wildlife Biologist Tel: 503/378-5020 x 308. Umpqua - Umpqua National Forest Eagle Rock/Rattlesnake Rocks - 1 restriction from Jan 1st - July 31st. Contact - Diamond Lake Ranger District, Umpqua National Forest Tel: 541/498-2531. Acker Rock - 1 restriction from Jan 1st - July 31st, or until fledged). Contact - Tiller Ranger District, Umpqua National Forest Tel: 541/825-3201. Limpy Rock - 1 restriction from Jan 1st- July 31st. Contact - North Umpqua Ranger District, Umpqua National Forest Tel: 541/496-3532. Umpqua Jurassic Park - 1 restriction from Jan 1st - July 31st, or until fledged. Seneca Jones Land. Contact: Dave Peterson, Fish and Wildlife Service Tel: 541/957-3471. The Honeycombs - 1 restriction Jan 1st - July 31st. Seneca Jones Land. Roseburg area Zen Spot - Lucy Ridge formation. 1 restriction - Jan 1st- July 31st. Contact - Weyerhaeuser Tel: 541/672-9622. Rogue River National Forest Rabbit Ears - 1 restriction from Jan 1st - July 31st, or until fledged. Prospect Ranger District Contact: Jim Good, District Wildlife Biologist Tel: 541/560-3400. Rogue Valley Rattlesnake - 1 restriction on Mushroom Towers from Jan 1st - July 31st. Located on BLM (Tel: Medford 541/440-4930) and Boise Cascade (Tel: 541/776-6684) land. Utah Zion: Cliff closures are effective February 1. After nests are located (by May 15), only those areas harboring nests will remain closed. An attempt will be made to open routes in proximity to nesting areas, as long as the safety and nesting success of the peregrines is not jeopardized. This may possibly mean that some routes on a cliff face supporting a nest may be opened. As nest sites are located, photos will be distributed of the redefined closed areas. These areas will remain closed until the young fledge (usually in July) or the nest fails. It is typical for areas not selected for nesting to reopen sometime in April. An attempt has been made to list some of the routes that are closed. This list is by no means comprehensive, as not all routes are mapped, and some known routes are difficult to locate exactly. The following areas have had closures in the past: The Great White Throne Cathedral Mountain Cable Mountain Mt. Kinesava (southwest face only) The Streaked Wall (entirely closed) North Twin Brother (all routes closed) Middle Fork of Taylor Creek (Kolob Canyons) Contact: Jill Sheesley 435/772-7611 or www.nps.gov/zion for the latest information. Canyonlands National Park Restriction in effect on Airport Tower. from Feb. 1 - June 30. Contact: Island in the Sky Visitor Center, NPS Tel: 435/259-4351 Snow Canyon State Park OK, they're not exactly raptors, but just so you know. Johnson's canyon is closed seasonally from March 1 to Nov.15 to protect the Mojave Desert Tortoise, Chuckwallas and Gila Monsters. Please respect this closure. Contact: Kristen Comella, Park Naturalist Tel: 435/628-2255. Washington Midnight and Noontime Rocks and Vicinity: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Fores Closed to entry April 1 to July 31 to Protect Nesting Raptors. Raptors have been observed on and between Midnight and Noontime Rocks. During the nesting period, the site will be monitored and if conditions warrant, some restrictions may be lifted. Contact: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests, Lake Wenatchee and Leavenworth Ranger Districts 509/548-6977. Beacon Rock State Park Restriction affects the south face of Beacon Rock and is in effect from Feb. 1 - July 15. Contact: Ranger - State Park Manager Tel: 509.427.8265. Tieton River - Oakcreek Wildlife Recreation Area. Royal Columns & Tim Pond Wall. Restriction runs from Feb. 1 through July 31. Contact: John Mcgowan - Area Manager Tel: 509.653.2390. Note: Voluntary restriction in respect of Native American culture - June restriction. Climbers are requested by the Access Fund and the NPS to respect a voluntary restriction on climbing in June each year. This is in respect of American Indian beliefs. The month of June is a significant time for religious belief based around the solstice. The voluntary restriction has been in place since 1995. Quote
Yos Posted May 4, 2003 Posted May 4, 2003 If peregrine falcons (amazing birds) have no problem nesting and hatching on the WAMU building downtown, I doubt massive cliff closures are necessary. That being said, thanks for the update timmy. Quote
sobo Posted May 5, 2003 Posted May 5, 2003 gapertimmy said: Stolen from Access Fund Site, but good info: blah blah blah... Note: Voluntary restriction in respect of Native American culture - June restriction. Climbers are requested by the Access Fund and the NPS to respect a voluntary restriction on climbing in June each year. This is in respect of American Indian beliefs. The month of June is a significant time for religious belief based around the solstice. The voluntary restriction has been in place since 1995. Does this mean ALL TYPES of climbing, or just rock climbing? Does it mean just Washington (as it was listed under WA closures), or just tribal lands (which we shouldn't be on anyway), or just National Parks? Anyone else ever hear of this? I'm aware of seasonal closures at Painted Rocks (in Yakima) and Devil's Tower, WY. Further elaboration/clarification appreciated. ...sobo Quote
Jim Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 Yos said: If peregrine falcons (amazing birds) have no problem nesting and hatching on the WAMU building downtown, I doubt massive cliff closures are necessary. That being said, thanks for the update timmy. The thing is - no one is climbing up the side of the Mutual Tower to disturb the birds. Generally it's a short closure season and there's lots of other places to climb. Quote
Jim Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 sobo said: gapertimmy said: Stolen from Access Fund Site, but good info: blah blah blah... Note: Voluntary restriction in respect of Native American culture - June restriction. Climbers are requested by the Access Fund and the NPS to respect a voluntary restriction on climbing in June each year. This is in respect of American Indian beliefs. The month of June is a significant time for religious belief based around the solstice. The voluntary restriction has been in place since 1995. Does this mean ALL TYPES of climbing, or just rock climbing? Does it mean just Washington (as it was listed under WA closures), or just tribal lands (which we shouldn't be on anyway), or just National Parks? Anyone else ever hear of this? I'm aware of seasonal closures at Painted Rocks (in Yakima) and Devil's Tower, WY. Further elaboration/clarification appreciated. ...sobo No. Go to the Access Fund site. This is for Devil's Tower. Quote
sobo Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Thanks, Jim. I thought that it was Devil's Tower, but the voluntary closure segment's placement at the end of the whole article could lead one to conclude otherwise, being listed after Washington State closure areas and no mention of what tribe was asking for the voluntary closure... The Yakamas are a PITA to deal with one it comes to climbing around here. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 midnight open.. is this true skeptical smoot info.. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 21, 2003 Posted June 21, 2003 so am i gonna have to go ask the rangers myself or does anyone have a clue if this info is legit???????????? Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 This subject came up at rope up. A wildlife biologist spoke on closures and I was dismayed to hear that climbers are likely to be displaced even if and when raptors are fully recovered and off the threatened list. Sounds like "charismatic megafauna" management to me. I think that wildlife management should be governed by both science and statute, but not by emotions. Comments? Quote
erik Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 when did they speak? good thing i was not there.....cuz i want to know what biologists are allowed to fuck with the birds, but i climber cannot be near them?? seems kinda dumb to me. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 One interesting thing she mentioned was that the only way they know about raptors on climbing crags is when the biologists are told about it by the climbers themselves. I say those climbers are sell-outs. Quote
mattp Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 Catbird, there is one crag (two named rocks, actually) in all of Leavenworth that is closed for a few months each year. They said this is one of two eeries in the entire Leavenworth Ranger District, and they want to protect them because they are special. I don't think it is a big problem for us to comply with this very unrestrictive closure. I realize that raptor closures are more extensive in some other climbing areas, and I know that part of what John Harlin kept saying is true -- that there have in the past been "experts" who say that climbers do not deter nesting activity (or at least not always so) and there may be unclear scientific support for raptor closures -- but what's the big deal about cooperating with this minimal closure? I was very encouraged to talk to two rangers from the Leavenworth Ranger Station who seemed to be quite aware of the issues and who generally appeared to be supportive of climbing in the district and mostly quite reasonable in their views on things like trails, rare plants, birds, bolting ... Quote
Bronco Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 They shouldn't be sleeping in the middle of the day anyway. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 Why should I care if those two crags are closed. I'm not a good enough climber to do any of the routes on them anyway. It seems strange though that the raptors pick only climbing crags. I think that there are many more of these birds than anyone is aware of. Don't get me wrong, I think everyone should respect the raptor bans, I just think that there will come a time that they will not be necessary. Let's hope so both for the birds and the climbers. Quote
hikerwa Posted October 13, 2003 Posted October 13, 2003 It was also cool to hear that the Wildlife Biologist was herself a climber. And if I dare say, cute... Quote
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