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allison

Ice Axe blah blah blah

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So yesterday I spent a full day learning ice axe arrest stuff. Today I feel like if my fingernails and hair follicles could feel pain, they would. It hurt to put my jacket on after dinner. Is this normal? cry.gif owowowowowow!

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allison said:

So yesterday I spent a full day learning ice axe arrest stuff. Today I feel like if my fingernails and hair follicles could feel pain, they would. It hurt to put my jacket on after dinner. Is this normal? cry.gif owowowowowow!

Were you practicing on ice? What did you hit?

 

Seriously, when I was first learning ice axe arrest, I was practicing the "on the back, head down hill" orientation and I kept hitting myself in the shin of one leg with the heel of my boot. Each time I would hit it in exactly the same place - about three times. Ouch!

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I've never heard of "tuck and roll" being used as a self arrest technique

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No, I didn't sustain any injuries, I'm just (still) rilly sore from throwing myself down the hill and then trying to stop. For me though this time of year represents the low point in my physical conditioning.

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So do you feel you are happy with your ability to arrest quickly? It takes a couple of days work to get really good and then you have to practice a little every year to maintain the skills. Did you practice all four orientations including wearing a pack?

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We did every position, and with left and right hand, and sure, I feel okay about being able to stop in the conditions I was working in this weekend. Now on ice, well, that's another story altogether. We didn't do anything with a pack on, but honestly, I am a cripple and the extra weight I carry on my back is not that much. Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix.

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catbirdseat said:

So do you feel you are happy with your ability to arrest quickly? It takes a couple of days work to get really good and then you have to practice a little every year to maintain the skills. Did you practice all four orientations including wearing a pack?

 

Oh shit, look at this!...and who's running my Snow I? I'll be packing my shorts with that teflon chalk if I know what's good for me.

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allison said:

Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix.

 

Be careful with the crampons -- it won't take much of an error to end up with a broken leg or torn knee or something. Personally, I'll concentrate on not falling with crampons on and leave the practice for somebody else.

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Well, right now I can't get my feet out of the snow for stopping, so the added component of crampons might help that. With my busted ankles being what they are, if I don't get them off the snow and use other things to stop, there is going to be some consequence. Like if I am lucky, owowowowowiiiee!

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probably the most common form of injury requiring evac these days on easy routes is injuries from sliding w/ crampons on.

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Speaking of which...

Self arrsest with crampons on sucks madgo_ron.gif. I once fell in the shucksan gully on the south side with crampons on, I kept my feet off the ground for a few seconds but then the shit really hit the fan when they hit and it was cartwheels the rest of the way for me! I don't reccomend trying this hellno3d.gif .

Edited by salbrecher

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iain said:

probably the most common form of injury requiring evac these days on easy routes is injuries from sliding w/ crampons on.

The American Alpine Club backs this claim....

Mountaineers teach to get the feet off the surface of the snow as the arrest is attempted (take them off on a glissade).

Practice helps, from all aspects: face down, left, right, face up. This should be done to the point that it is a natural reaction, because once you are 10' into the fall there is mostly a hope of a prayer or a good runout.

TTT

Edited by To_The_Top

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allison said:

We did every position, and with left and right hand, and sure, I feel okay about being able to stop in the conditions I was working in this weekend. Now on ice, well, that's another story altogether. We didn't do anything with a pack on, but honestly, I am a cripple and the extra weight I carry on my back is not that much. Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix.

On ice you had better not fall in the first place. If you find yourself in a situation in which you can't arrest, then you should consider placing pickets or screws and a running belay. Otherwise, be careful enough that you don't fall. Judgement is as important as your skills in the mountains.

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salbrecher said:

Speaking of which...

Self arrsest with crampons on sucks madgo_ron.gif. I once fell in the shucksan gully on the south side with crampons on, I kept my feet off the ground for a few seconds but then the shit really hit the fan when they hit and it was cartwheels the rest of the way for me! I don't reccomend trying this hellno3d.gif .

 

I guess every situation can be different. I was glad to have my crampons on when my partner fell with great speed a few years back pulling me a distance as well. The rope burns were not that bad but it was only him and I on the rope and took a lot of force to arrest the both of us.

 

Maybe it's like boxing. Some people can take a punch better than others.

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if you fall and have crampons and hit your partner with them it makes for a better epic. rolleyes.gif

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Cobra said:

The rope burns were not that bad...

 

Rope burns?

 

How did you get rope burns?

 

You were tied together right?

 

Hmmmm....

 

wazzup.gif

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