allison Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 So yesterday I spent a full day learning ice axe arrest stuff. Today I feel like if my fingernails and hair follicles could feel pain, they would. It hurt to put my jacket on after dinner. Is this normal? owowowowowow! Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 allison said: So yesterday I spent a full day learning ice axe arrest stuff. Today I feel like if my fingernails and hair follicles could feel pain, they would. It hurt to put my jacket on after dinner. Is this normal? owowowowowow! Were you practicing on ice? What did you hit? Seriously, when I was first learning ice axe arrest, I was practicing the "on the back, head down hill" orientation and I kept hitting myself in the shin of one leg with the heel of my boot. Each time I would hit it in exactly the same place - about three times. Ouch! Quote
iain Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 I've never heard of "tuck and roll" being used as a self arrest technique Quote
allison Posted April 21, 2003 Author Posted April 21, 2003 No, I didn't sustain any injuries, I'm just (still) rilly sore from throwing myself down the hill and then trying to stop. For me though this time of year represents the low point in my physical conditioning. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 21, 2003 Posted April 21, 2003 So do you feel you are happy with your ability to arrest quickly? It takes a couple of days work to get really good and then you have to practice a little every year to maintain the skills. Did you practice all four orientations including wearing a pack? Quote
allison Posted April 22, 2003 Author Posted April 22, 2003 We did every position, and with left and right hand, and sure, I feel okay about being able to stop in the conditions I was working in this weekend. Now on ice, well, that's another story altogether. We didn't do anything with a pack on, but honestly, I am a cripple and the extra weight I carry on my back is not that much. Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix. Quote
A7U Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 catbirdseat said: So do you feel you are happy with your ability to arrest quickly? It takes a couple of days work to get really good and then you have to practice a little every year to maintain the skills. Did you practice all four orientations including wearing a pack? Oh shit, look at this!...and who's running my Snow I? I'll be packing my shorts with that teflon chalk if I know what's good for me. Quote
mattp Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 allison said: Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix. Be careful with the crampons -- it won't take much of an error to end up with a broken leg or torn knee or something. Personally, I'll concentrate on not falling with crampons on and leave the practice for somebody else. Quote
allison Posted April 22, 2003 Author Posted April 22, 2003 Well, right now I can't get my feet out of the snow for stopping, so the added component of crampons might help that. With my busted ankles being what they are, if I don't get them off the snow and use other things to stop, there is going to be some consequence. Like if I am lucky, owowowowowiiiee! Quote
iain Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 probably the most common form of injury requiring evac these days on easy routes is injuries from sliding w/ crampons on. Quote
salbrecher Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 (edited) Speaking of which... Self arrsest with crampons on sucks . I once fell in the shucksan gully on the south side with crampons on, I kept my feet off the ground for a few seconds but then the shit really hit the fan when they hit and it was cartwheels the rest of the way for me! I don't reccomend trying this . Edited April 22, 2003 by salbrecher Quote
To_The_Top Posted April 22, 2003 Posted April 22, 2003 (edited) iain said: probably the most common form of injury requiring evac these days on easy routes is injuries from sliding w/ crampons on. The American Alpine Club backs this claim.... Mountaineers teach to get the feet off the surface of the snow as the arrest is attempted (take them off on a glissade). Practice helps, from all aspects: face down, left, right, face up. This should be done to the point that it is a natural reaction, because once you are 10' into the fall there is mostly a hope of a prayer or a good runout. TTT Edited April 22, 2003 by To_The_Top Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 23, 2003 Posted April 23, 2003 allison said: We did every position, and with left and right hand, and sure, I feel okay about being able to stop in the conditions I was working in this weekend. Now on ice, well, that's another story altogether. We didn't do anything with a pack on, but honestly, I am a cripple and the extra weight I carry on my back is not that much. Next time though we will be adding packs and crampons to the mix. On ice you had better not fall in the first place. If you find yourself in a situation in which you can't arrest, then you should consider placing pickets or screws and a running belay. Otherwise, be careful enough that you don't fall. Judgement is as important as your skills in the mountains. Quote
Cobra Posted April 24, 2003 Posted April 24, 2003 salbrecher said: Speaking of which... Self arrsest with crampons on sucks . I once fell in the shucksan gully on the south side with crampons on, I kept my feet off the ground for a few seconds but then the shit really hit the fan when they hit and it was cartwheels the rest of the way for me! I don't reccomend trying this . I guess every situation can be different. I was glad to have my crampons on when my partner fell with great speed a few years back pulling me a distance as well. The rope burns were not that bad but it was only him and I on the rope and took a lot of force to arrest the both of us. Maybe it's like boxing. Some people can take a punch better than others. Quote
Dru Posted April 28, 2003 Posted April 28, 2003 if you fall and have crampons and hit your partner with them it makes for a better epic. Quote
specialed Posted April 28, 2003 Posted April 28, 2003 as long as you don't puncture the horse cock. Quote
Alpinfox Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 Cobra said: The rope burns were not that bad... Rope burns? How did you get rope burns? You were tied together right? Hmmmm.... Quote
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