dalius Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 Any guesses as to WTF this "Happy" smiley is doing? Quote
dryad Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 dalius said: Any guesses as to WTF this "Happy" smiley is doing? The latter part of the "Time Warp" Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 dalius said: Any guesses as to WTF this "Happy" smiley is doing? just so long as it's not the macarena...... Quote
dalius Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 either that or some new-agey aerobics moves? Quote
Attitude Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 erik said: Attitude said: erik said: i will remove it all and turn it in. dont leave webbing! ever! clean your anchors!!!!! And crowbar those hideous bolts, too. you do seem to be the semantics master dont you!? Have you ever left webbing on a climb? Rapped off webbing around a tree or a horn? Quote
mattp Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 The little gremlin is getting ready to jump for the first clip on a sport-climb. Quote
dalius Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 Attitude said:Have you ever left webbing on a climb? Rapped off webbing around a tree or a horn? Trees are aid. Please remove all trees before leaving the climbing area. Thank you. Quote
erik Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 semantics, yes i have. i am addressing the icicle creek proper. you know like all the main formations that you can walk off of? icicle buttress strongly comes to mind. i have a slack line solely from webbing removed from there. all of it was dated the same day. i also removed nearly 30ft of it 2 summers ago from the top of the tree at bob's wall. you can walk off. you can easily removed your webbing and so after your tr sesh. i have no problems with bolting in general, but we are not discussing that either. you can clean your natural anchors easily, you do so as the follower leaves the belay station and climbs toward the next one. Quote
Alasdair Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 I agree with you erik. If any of you have ever climbed the south side of Ingalls peak you will notice the Two big Metolius Rap bolts desingned to feed a rope through that have been threaded with so much fucking webbing that you cant even follow one piece to figure out if the anchore is safe to rap off. Every time I have ever got to this anchor and there is webbing on it I cut it all off, and take it home. One time much to the dislike of some mountie shit head who had just threaded a piece through and rapped off. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 Alasdair said: I agree with you erik. If any of you have ever climbed the south side of Ingalls peak you will notice the Two big Metolius Rap bolts desingned to feed a rope through that have been threaded with so much fucking webbing that you cant even follow one piece to figure out if the anchore is safe to rap off. Every time I have ever got to this anchor and there is webbing on it I cut it all off, and take it home. One time much to the dislike of some mountie shit head who had just threaded a piece through and rapped off. Alasdair, do as you like. Equalizing two bolts using webbing is safer than threading the rope through two cold shuts. If there are chains, no problem, use the chains. If you thread two bolts without chain and one fails, you have extension and the remaining bolt could fail from the shock load. Don't criticize people for doing what they regard as the safer alternative. Quote
erik Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 CBS metolious rap bolts are designed so you dont need rats nets of webbing. Quote
erik Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 also why have soo many pieces of webbing when 2 or 3 would suffice. clean your crap up dont use bright colored webbing. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 erik said: also why have soo many pieces of webbing when 2 or 3 would suffice. clean your crap up dont use bright colored webbing. I am not certain which type of bolts these are then. I agree that one should always cut out old slings and take them with you. Quote
rr666 Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 erik said: also why have soo many pieces of webbing when 2 or 3 would suffice. clean your crap up dont use bright colored webbing. I was up on Orbit the other week, and some losers thought that that webbing on one of the rap anchors was no good. They did the good thing and cut it. But then they just left the webbing on the ledge . What is up with that? Those metolius anchors rock , and take care of shit like this. Quote
Dustin_B Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 slothrop said: The Mounties were everywhere this past weekend. The scrambling course was encamped at 8-Mile and I saw plenty of helmet nametags at Vantage, where we retreated to after Sunday morning's rain. Mountaineer's Dome aka Beginner's Buttress was swarming with GoreTex-clad folks on Saturday. Was that the scrambling course? That was the intermediate climbing course at Mountaineer's Dome on Saturday. There were 8 students and probably 6 instructors. They were wearing gore-tex, precip, softshells, hardshells, whatever because it was RAINING. Quote
chucK Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 CBS, 1. If you rap off of a huge rat's nest of slings of which you can't even tell which sling is connected where, there is also the possibility of one sling failing and thus shock-loading the remaining bunch. 2. I'm not sure whether you were purposely trying to skew his meaning or if you just don't know the difference, but there is a big difference between cold shuts and Metolius rap bolts. 3. He is not criticizing people for doing what they consider is safer. He is criticizing what he considers is people's ignorance about proper safety issues. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 Chuck, I agree with you on point #1. I went and looked up the Metolius Rap Bolt hangers and saw a picture. They are like regular bolt hangers, except that the opening is rounded and polished so that it will not cut the rope. Quote
chucK Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 (edited) ...and cold shuts are a rod of metal bent to form a ring, sometimes they are welded at the joint. This is a bit different than a forged hanger Edited April 16, 2003 by chucK Quote
Attitude Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 rr666 said: I was up on Orbit the other week, and some losers thought that that webbing on one of the rap anchors was no good. They did the good thing and cut it. But then they just left the webbing on the ledge . What is up with that? And what's up with the pink webbing tied to a rap ring on the bolts of the 4th pitch, anyway? Quote
Dustin_B Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 (edited) allison said: I recently put in a request with someone from the Everett chapter that they post something every time they are going to be in the Icicle. It would be oh so nice if the Seattle chapter would do the same thing. Also the WAC and the Boealps if anyone out there can help. What would also be oh so nice IMO is if they would limit their group size, even if it means they are there more often. I've done almost no climbing there because of the crowds of climbing club classes I see every time I am in the area. Seattle Mountaineers intermediate climbing course is having their rock 2 in icicle this weekend. Everett Mountianeers intermediate climbing course is having their rock 2 at Royal Columns May 3-4. If you want to climb a route that the Mountaineers have a rope on and aren't using (or an adjacent route), ask to talk to the area leader. If the area leader is no help ask to talk to the field trip coordinator. I'm sure they'd be accomodating. Also, Boealps basic course will be in Icicle May 3-4, Boealps intermediate course will be at Smith May 3-4, and Squamish May 17-18 Edited April 16, 2003 by Dustin_B Quote
Attitude Posted April 16, 2003 Posted April 16, 2003 erik said: the metal is thicker as well. Semantics. Try again. Quote
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