Climbing in Cabo

[David_Parker]

So I have been reduced from Volcanos to bouldering! My wife changed our trip to Mexico from the mainland to Cabo San Lucas (Baja). So does anyone know about climbing in that area? I've never been.

[Marcus_Engley]

Don't know about Cabo, but there's definitely some good stuff to be had in Baja. About halfway down the peninsula, in the "high" country between Loreto and Guerrero Negro (I think), you'll find a place called Catavina. It's a wonderland of granite boulders, mixed with Joshua trees, for miles in all directions. Go play.

I think there's also some pretty good seaside climbing, on the west side of the peninsula, but I don't know much about it.

Hope that helps! Baja is gooorgeous. Be sure to do some kayaking/sailing/diving while you're there...

m

[texplorer]

Next year tell her you want to take her to this great new resort in north central mexico called El Potrero Chico.

[Dru]

"cabo san looseness" has grainy granite similar to j tree. great beach bouldering. check back issues of R&I (1994? cover photo of isabelle patissier and paul piana article on freeing el gran trono) and climbing c. 1997 with a article about bouldering and sport climbing in the desert just north of cabo (catavina, mentioned above). lots of granite but lots of it is allegedly grainy, what there is is pretty good. lots or rock if ya take shoes and a bag anyways (and a mat?).

[ 11-27-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

[freeclimb9]

Catavina is far, far away from Cabo San Lucas (maybe 20 hours driving time). In Cabo San Lucas, there's rock right at the famous Los Arcos with established routes. The rock is actually very fine grained. The salt makes the texture a bit slippery and the fixed gear is suspect, but go for it. To access the rock, walk through the Hotel Finisterra (there's a saddle to the south of the marina that you walk over), then head left down the beach towards the arch. A third to fourth class scramble to avoid swimming (which is dangerous on the Pacific side) will get you to more climbing and a hotel-free beach (and eventually to a beach called "Lover's"); the route is obvious. Alternatively, you can get a water taxi from the marina, or outer harbor beach, to Lover's beach. I haven't done anything other than boulder there myself --the fishing is some of the best in the world, and that's what I do in Cabo. The Whale Watcher bar at the Finisterra is pretty cool --great view (don't know if it's open yet after the hurricane). If you drink at the Baja Cantina on the malecon, give a shout to the owner, George, and his lady, Cheri. And it's a fine place to get drunk. If you want a night out without your lady, a friction dance at Mermaids is worth the price. Better yet, take her with you and buy her one from the super fine ladies there; they love that.

BTW, El Gran Trono Blanco is not that far from Tecate which is on the US border --1200 miles from Cabo. There's a couple of lifetimes of climbing to do there in Canyon Tajo. The Pan Am route on the Trono face is excellent, and is nearly in its original form after the defacement by Paul Piana and Heidi Badarocco was erased.

[Paul_detrick]

I was asking the same qustions back in may, stayed at Worldmark in San Jose, 15mi, north of San Lucas.I live to climb, but theres way to many other things to do, I never got out.

Like others have said go fishing, some of the best in the world, I caught a 175lb marlin, and lots of tuna, its a once in a lifetime trip, all the resorsts we saw, and worldmarks was frist class. Get your money changed here, don't use dollars down there or you will get ripped off. Don't use the taxis, rent a car,VWS cheap, or ride the bus, easy to do. I know your gonna have a great time so enjoy. Paul

[AJ]

I did a little bit of climbing in Cabo a few years ago. I'd have to disagree with freeclimb9 - I found the rock to be very coarse granite. My brother and I did a couple routes on the south end of the beach (Pacific side) before you scramble over to Playa del Amor. This is far before Los Arcos. We were staying at the Sol Mar Hotel and it is easier to go through their lobby to get to the beach. The Finistera is a bit north along the Pacific side.

I think Dru's suggestion about old articles is good. I believe most of the routes are Paul Piana & Heid B. creations. It wasn't the best, but it kept us amused for a couple mornings. We got a lot of odd looks from tourists and the locals ignored us because they see rock starved Americans try climbing there every so often.

When I go back I probably won't climb - maybe boulder around a little, but the real reason to go to Cabo is the fishing. Supposedly some good surfing in San Jose del Cabo, ok snorkeling on the "booze cruises". Plenty of tequila and even Sammy Hagar's "Cabo Wabo" bar to keep you occupied.

If you are inclined to go we found that tape was necessary. Most of the easier climbs can be done with a single 50m rope. We took 50m of 9mm in case we needed it for the rappels. Seems like the gear placements were very similar to J-Tree. For us that meant cams and some nuts. I don't recall anything under 5.10 having bolts (except for some so-so rap stations). The climate is hard on those stations so inspect carefully. Climb early to avoid the heat.

[miker]

Well it looks like I might be going on a cruise that stops in Cabo for a day around New Years. How close are the cruise ship docks to the boulderable stuff? I saw info on Lover's Beach and if a taxi boat is only $2 to take me there I might go scramble around. Unless you were gonna be there around the same time Dave.

miker

[AJ]

The cruise ships never dock in Cabo, but they do shuttle tourists into the downtown area via smaller boats. From the drop off point it is easy to hop on a boat to take you to Playa del Amor. (You pay for the ride out, the ride back used to be free.) Oh, take a couple bucks to the beach with you since you are likely to find a couple guys roaming the beach with cold cervezas (and limes if you like it that way). I thought their prices were a bit high at $2 per, but then again it was cold beer on a fairly remote beach. They have to make a living too.

Oh, if you get up on the really hard stuff don't be surprised to see bolted on holds. You can see an example in the Everest IMAX movie. The opening sequences show that Spanish chick climbing in Cabo to "train".