cascadecowboy Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Calling all aid climbers . . . Are adjustable daisys worth it? Please share your thoughts and experiences. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Adjustable daisies are necessary for today Aid climbing (sure u can do aid with regular daises…but so u can do 70º couloirs with hob nails boots) It will definitely speeds your ascent and simplifies top stepping I personally like the Yates adjustable daises. For the time, convenience, and $34 for the pair, it is extremely valuable and cheap Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 (edited) I like em. I use two of 'em and a fifi for gettin in short, that way I don't have to loosen them when I get into the second step. Also If they get twisted and you try to get them really tight you can get annoyed, so just make sure they dont get twisted, or don't try to get them supertight and use your fifi for hanging from the piece. That's what I have recently figured out. Edited March 17, 2003 by COL._Von_Spanker Quote
Lambone Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 I switched over last year, won't go back. I use the Metolius ones. They are nice, but you gotta keep them un-twisted, which isn't so bad once your used to it. I still use a fifi if I want to be in close to the piece real quick. The best advantage of adjustables comes on overhanging pitches. It takes alot less energy to tghten them as you move up than it does to place a fifi. They make steep roofs a piece of cake. On vert or less than vert I often will just keep them loose like regular daisies and use the fifi. It's time consuming to adjust them every move. The biggest disadvantage I have found is that once weighted it is hard to loosen the buckel to get slack. Like when top-steping, you have to release the tension first, which is difficult once you are above the piece. Still this isn't so bad if you plan ahead. Also, they are not full strength. Quote
Attitude Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 cascadecowboy said: Calling all aid climbers . . . Are adjustable daisys worth it? Please share your thoughts and experiences. Adjustable daisies are aid. Quote
dalius Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 I agree with Dru. I use two reg. daisies with an adjustable-length Fifi that I got from ProMntnSprts. Works like a dream. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 Dru, does the fifi ever fall out when adjusting? Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 not if you do it right although the hook isnt as pronounced as on a non-adjustable fifi i have never had a problem with it. Quote
dalius Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 I've never had it come loose either. Actually, it can be a little tough to get loose when you need to top step and make it a little longer. You eventually get the hang of it though. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 ya, i slack mine off while im moving up off the 2nd step. Quote
Yos Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 Another vote for the adjustable fifi. Have one adjustable daisy, but never change the length when leading. Second Ascent had them for under $5. Quote
cascadecowboy Posted March 18, 2003 Author Posted March 18, 2003 Folks, some very helpful comments here - thanks. The adjustable fifi sounds very cool. Anyone care to name brands prices, and availability on those puppies? Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 i think the adjustable daisy is only made by Kong you can ghettum for about $10 CDN at Climb-On in Squamish i got mine in Index long ago!! Quote
dalius Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 Adjustable Fifi - Kong Climbing equip. bought at Pro Mountain Sports $Price = ? Probably around $7 ?? The ones at Jim's shop come with a 7mm chord threaded through them, though I don't know if it's Kong or Jim that's threading them. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 must be jim it says to use 7mm but 6mm works better Quote
snoboy Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 Dru said: it says to use 7mm but 6mm works better And try to find the stuff that has a bit of a softer weave to it. The stiff 6mm just tends to jam a bit. Quote
dalius Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 Dru said: must be jim it says to use 7mm but 6mm works better Actually, I don't know if it's 6 or 7. I just assumed it was 7mm because that's what Kong spec'ed it for. Quote
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