Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 This Tr will be confuso Cause i am on beer already steve came out to wack. we took all sortsa shit like 100 pins and 50 cams and 40 draws and 40 nuts, a powerdrill and 10 bolts out to "RockFace" on Highway 7. the aim was to do some aid FA and do whatever the fuck as good practice as opposed to Squamish designer comfortized scrubbed aid lines. well first we drove around and up past yale and back lokin for dry rock. wasnt none so we went back to rockface by default mmade Death approach (5 minutes, 100m from car) to a wall 50m right of the 2 established lines. dumped gear. racked up. i won the rock-scissors-paper and started leading. excavated moss and dirt from crack. placed orange friend. bomber 2nd stepped. excavated crack. placed nut. bounced. nut tracked down 6 inches and wedged good 3rd stepped off nut and dug moss & mud out of crack. baby angle. bing bing bing. started bouncing. angle ripped. short daisy fall on nut. nut held. climbed back up. 2nd stepped on nut. dug more out of crack. placed same angle a bit higheer. no ding ding. hmmmmm stepped onto top-and-a-half cheat steps, excavated. fat LA. welded it. dull thudding the whole way. lip of flake broke off, pounded deeper, still thudding. Ok its prob expando bounced LA. even with big bounces, not a prob. not a smidgen of move. 2nd stepped on LA. clean crack finally. but a thin undercling type flake. scoured out a loose rock from behind it. put in gray tcu. looked like it was tipped-out. took it out, put in purple. yarded. lokked good. got on purple. started bouncing. on about 9th-10th increasing force bounce, full on jump up and down, tcu pulled. daisy fell on LA. LA pulled. hit ground from about 12' up. got up. bouldering type fall. thick carpet of moss. no breaks. knuckles ripped to shit from holding grab loops during chees grater gear rippin experience. FUCKIDYFUCKFUCKEXPANFUCKINGDOFUCK asked steve if he wanted to lead it. he didnt looked for other good lines nearby. nada. looked at established lines.look like (are) free projects not qual aid lines. gave up. went to nearby slab right off highway. started raining. wet slab. packed up. drove to chehalis roadside. did hundredth meridian (10a sport crimping) in the rain drove home beer , shower anybody? are cam hooks better for expando than pins and cams? maybe i should get some. must buy more gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 I thinks so. You should get one or two anyway... Glad your ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 Everybody spraying about aid climbing in the rain made it sound like a good idea, huh? Glad to read about it as a first person report, hope the anesthesia helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 wewll when everybody started spraying abnout aid in the rain i had already made my plans but didnt feel likt trumpeting them because of the me too effect. shit these beers are really fucking up my spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 hey - "me too", 'cept I didn't fall off - want some lessons gaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 yes please i have a dickens novel i can rwead while i belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 What you gonna learn belaying??? THe classic aid "lesson" from me involves shouting directions up to some one who is totallly clusterf$%^ed on lead. I'm the one who gets the novel! Lets have an aid fest when Muffy comes up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 squamish aid fest! climb all day fix at night bivi at snoboy's hot tub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 I keep forgetting I have a hot tub this summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 and a wine cellar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 Ohhh...we need that greamlin. He's cool. Was browsing through a copy of alpine select today at bookstore. Didn't know your pics were in there Dru; very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 JoshK said: Ohhh...we need that greamlin. He's cool. Was browsing through a copy of alpine select today at bookstore. Didn't know your pics were in there Dru; very nice. hes french, you'll have to freedom him. maybe a cowboy hat instead of the beret.......you can see all those pix on bivouac.com but then what would you tick off routes in?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 golf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 table tennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 is that what you did this weekend jerk monkey??/ cause i played a fine round of golf today!! i even made a few!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 no but i do like table tennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 I used to be a table tennis demon! Not quite like those guys on tv who get 20 feet from the table crank'n it, but nevertheless. As for golf that is despicable erik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 but I do like walking around on the course if it is a nice one. glaze meadows course at black butte ranch in oregon being one of the best trips ever. try it! four! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 The only thing I ever want to do on a golf course is race the golf carts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 eric8 said: The only thing I ever want to do on a golf course is race the golf carts. that's the best! (but there are other fun things to do on course ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 u people live shallow and sheltered lives!!! golf is up there with climbing, beer and sex..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 erik said: u people live shallow and sheltered lives!!! golf is up there with climbing, beer and sex..... hey i know all about golf! and well a golf course definitely include all three of those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 iain.....now that you are my sworn enemy(ireaditinabook) table tennis is for dorks...you prolly got picked on as a kid on st paddy's day didnt you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 minx you want to go "golfing" sometime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Share Posted March 17, 2003 people are SPRAYING all over my vitally important thread ping pong is for losers except if you are drunk then it becomes acceptable. but shuffleboard is better and pool is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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