ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Let's say I wanted to rope solo a clean or free route at Index and the only good anchor I could get at the base included some pins. I'm talking about ground level here; placements that would only affect sit starters. I'm curious about the prevalent opinion regarding use of pins in a situation like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 like where exactly?? i would think that most of those pins would be oriantated in a weird diro. and at the lower town, there is something "CLEAN" that can be used for all the pitches. and i doubt that you could not find another suitable placement other then pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 There are trees everywhere at Index. Make your anchor one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 I am sure scottp means it when he says "only good anchor." It wouldn't bother me...but I'm sure others might be offended. If it is bothering you, just get a belayer for that route... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Author Share Posted February 28, 2003 (edited) bigwalling said: There are trees everywhere at Index. Make your anchor one of those. Yeah... like those at the base of the Dark Crystal...or the base of the Waterway area...right, I'll use those. I'm not trying to be argumentative here. Just realistic. Erik..I can't give you specific examples. It was more of a speculative question. And as Lambone sez, I'm referring to when it would be the only good anchor. Edited February 28, 2003 by ScottP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 ScottP said: bigwalling said: There are trees everywhere at Index. Make your anchor one of those. Yeah... like those at the base of the Dark Crystal...or the base of the Waterway area...right, I'll use those. HEY SCOTT, IN YOUR INTIAL POST YOU MENTIONED THE LOWER WALL AND THAT IS THE ANSWER HE GAVE YOU. NO NEED TO BE SNIDE. AND WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU WERE OUT THERE?? THOSE SNIDE TREES MAY BE BIGGER....... BUT WHO KNOWS?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 (edited) erik said: i would think that most of those pins would be oriantated in a weird diro. and at the lower town, there is something "CLEAN" that can be used for all the pitches. and i doubt that you could not find another suitable placement other then pins. My 2 cents. Most pitches I've rope solo aided at the LTW you can easily find clean anchors or tie off to bolts a little ways up the climb. Then there are a couple routes I've tried that I found required some funky girth hitches on rocks that I felt was less than bomb proof. So I added a couple pins smashed in at foot level to make the anchor bomb proof. PM me with the routes you are interested in then if I've aid soloed them I'm sure I can give you the anchor beta. Edited February 28, 2003 by TimL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 TIM done my fair share, but with my attention span i am better suited to free climb. and i always have an opinion. and i don't aid solo crag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 answer: Get a "good anchor" somewhere higher than the base. Or just use a jive-ass anchor at the base, then clove hitch one of the better placements higher up (but be aware of the fall-factor potential on the next placements). Pounding pins is fun, but someone, somewhere, will get pissed about hammering on an Index climb. Besides, leaving the hammer at home lets you chestbeat later. (caveat: pound the pins, then rub dirt and moss on the slight tell-tale marks after you clean the pins. Hehe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Author Share Posted February 28, 2003 Erik, HEY SCOTT, IN YOUR INTIAL POST YOU MENTIONED THE LOWER WALL AND THAT IS THE ANSWER HE GAVE YOU. NO NEED TO BE SNIDE. My intitial post didn't specify where at Index. AND WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU WERE OUT THERE?? THOSE SNIDE TREES MAY BE BIGGER....... This winter, and they weren't. I'm not trying to be snide or argue. Just looking for a straight answer. "Use trees" seemed a tad to general and dismissive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 ScottP said: Erik, HEY SCOTT, IN YOUR INTIAL POST YOU MENTIONED THE LOWER WALL AND THAT IS THE ANSWER HE GAVE YOU. NO NEED TO BE SNIDE. My intitial post didn't specify where at Index. AND WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU WERE OUT THERE?? THOSE SNIDE TREES MAY BE BIGGER....... This winter, and they weren't. I'm not trying to be snide or argue. Just looking for a straight answer. "Use trees" seemed a tad to general and dismissive. werd my bad on the reading comprehension...9 hours at work and still going! ugh! and really freeclimb's advice is the way to go!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 I thought it was for lower town too. I guess I got that from erics post. Just don't let anyone see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 here's my two cent's that i'm sure nobody will like. step one: drill 5/16" holes, make them shallow and really low to the ground, insert 5/16" r.b.'s and equalize. better yet, just drive some rebar into the dirt and tie off. or even better, just free solo well below your limit, wear a walkman and rock out to TOOL while climbing. Fuck, just grab a partner or consume copious amounts ofbefore setting off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Author Share Posted February 28, 2003 HeadSpace said: here's my two cent's that i'm sure nobody will like. step one: drill 5/16" holes, make them shallow and really low to the ground, insert 5/16" r.b.'s and equalize. better yet, just drive some rebar into the dirt and tie off. or even better, just free solo well below your limit, wear a walkman and rock out to TOOL while climbing. Fuck, just grab a partner or consume copious amounts ofbefore setting off. I just recently finished a 70+ footnail-up of a bigleaf maple in my backyard using vintage but unused soft iron pins I inherited. The anchor was two 12 inch x 1/2 inch galvanized nails driven foot-level low into the trunk and equalized. A length of chain and an old locker got me back to the ground. I didn't do the copious quantitities of brew, but there was some C. sativa involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Leave the pins at home unless you NEED them while climbing. If you can't solo a route because of bad ground anchors, find a partner, set up clean anchors higher, or do something else. The last thing I want to see close to the ground are pin scars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Just place a bolt and call it good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Hey Scott! Can't you just tie off to one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 (edited) anyone know what the bolt anchor is for on that overhanging boulder just to the climbers RIGHT (oops) of the 3/4th class chimney up to the big ledge on the Great Northern Slab? just below Sonic Reducer. Noticed them in early January. Looks like you'd have to rap off of a tree to get to them if you were setting up a toprope. Edited February 28, 2003 by Bronco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 you got it! hard tr on the arete/face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 looks really hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Author Share Posted February 28, 2003 Chuck, Now why didn't I think of that? That's why you work at UW and I only work at BTMS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 chucK said: Hey Scott! Can't you just tie off to one of these? that guy looks like he's in for some serious rope drag when he reaches the slab proper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 28, 2003 Author Share Posted February 28, 2003 I know it's still a ways down the road, but I would like to see the look on the face of the poor fucker who is hanging off one of those when it finally does cut loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Hey Bronco! Is this you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth_Man Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 Ya know people who get uptight about pins driven at the base of the LTW are pretty anal in my book. I can understand getting all lathered up about somebody nailing a clean crack where it affects the climb, but at the base who gives a frick. I mean c'mon it's an old quarry and mostly a land of ugly destruction. There's freekin bolts right next to good cracks and bright red slings hanging all over the place. Gimme a break! If you're looking for a pristine climbing experience at Index you be confused man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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