Early March Conditions in the Enchantments, Route Suggestions

[mammothclimbs]

Hey everyone,

I haven't seen many trip reports from the enchantments recently and wanted to pick people's brains (or crystal ball predictions, given the amount of time beforehand) for expected conditions this spring.

I'd be secretly hoping that with such a low snowpack, routes such as stuart glacier couloir, ice cliff glacier, and triple couloirs would be in condition earlier than usual, and with acceptable avy conditions.

In particular, I would love to hear if people thought that the routes listed above (or any similar suggestions in the cascades) would be reasonably climbable in early March, or if anybody would have any alternative suggestions of a similar difficulty for worthwhile early March objectives in the Cascades (or more broadly, anywhere in the western US).

Happy Climbing!

[JasonG]

All of those Enchantments routes come in their best shape with repeated melt/freeze.  Otherwise it is mostly just scratching around on cold snow and dry rock.....so it will all depend on the temps.  Early March is typically pretty cold up high, even on a year like this so I wouldn't think that you'll find much in great climbing shape.  That said, all will generally be climbable with the right weather and avy conditions.  The good news is that if climbing conditions aren't great, ski conditions usually are a lot better, so maybe look at what is in store right before your trip and plan accordingly.

And, if you are casting about all over the Western US, that is another story.  I am sure you can probably find something, somewhere to climb.  But I only really know our backyard....

[Bronco]

March is historically difficult to line up stable weather windows in the Cascades as well.

[mammothclimbs]

Ok, great. Thanks to both of you for the advice. I think I'm likely guilty of just looking at when I have off, and hoping that some of the routes I want to climb happen to be condition, so it probably makes the most sense to just evaluate conditions and decide where to head out to at the last minute.

[olyclimber]

14 hours ago, mammothclimbs said:

Ok, great. Thanks to both of you for the advice. I think I'm likely guilty of just looking at when I have off, and hoping that some of the routes I want to climb happen to be condition, so it probably makes the most sense to just evaluate conditions and decide where to head out to at the last minute.

Maybe you're well aware of it, but that is exactly what lead to the demise of a few climbers from out of the PNW that flew in with a vacation window and tried to make it work despite the weather (see that famous Mt Hood incident, etc).  

Good on you for recognizing that!    IMO there are things to do no matter what the weather,  but sometimes they are just a little more mellow/less exciting...  like going to crag at Mt Erie.  Anyway it can make it more fun too as you can create a whole list of possibilities and research them all.  

[Bronco]

The snow pack is strange this year, very thin further north, more normal in the south.  We skied at the Mt. Baker resort on Sunday and it was shocking to see how thin it was below 4,000', there's hardly any snow. This could all change with a couple of good storms but there's not much hope on the long term forecasts.

[bedellympian]

I've climbed Gerber-Sink end of March before in good conditions. I've also bailed off of a few things in there during that same time window. (End of March is my spring break, work in education.)

I think the most important thing is to be flexible,  as mentioned. You can get out in pretty marginal weather if avy hazard is low and you are prepared. Some other spots that should be on your list to check depending on budget/travel time available... Rogers Pass, Canadian Rockies, Glacier NP, Bitteroots, South-central Idaho Ranges, Tetons, Rocky Mtn NP, Oregon Cascades, Elkhorns, Sierra, Wasatch, Great Basin NP.

I've had great luck in the Canadian Rockies that time of year. Ice is fat and sticky, huge variety of routes, alpine is just coming into condition depending on the year, cheap hostels and lots of partners to be had if you're solo or your buddy needs an extra rest day. One year I climbed 4 days of ice including routes up to 1,000 ft of climbing, then did an 800 ft limestone sport climb on a south aspect, then did a solo ski tour to scope an alpine face which wasn't in, so went mixed cragging the last day... pretty fun. Also, very different from the Cascades in-terms of rock, avy/snow, types of routes. A great contrast to what we get here.

[Lostbolt]

I have climbed Ice cliff and stuart col. west ridge a few years ago in prime condition in middle april. I went in yesterday for a C2C and summited Colchuck to get a eye on things.

 

Dragon tail has triple Col coming in the ice step is just starting to form, I would attempt it in the next few weeks. As far as Stuart goes, the end of april would probably be better. As of now the ice cliff and Stuart Glacier faces are loaded and probably full of loose dry sluff with a crappy crust. The summit block and ridge lines are in there winter state also. Gerber sink is not in a condition for screws. Hopefully this weather system keeps up and forms some better route conditions. Be prepared for the spring time afternoon high winds and crappy fronts that roll in this time of year.  The gate at 8mile campground is still closed and will be for some time, I hit snow at about 1.5 mi in. It was about 1ft deep and consistent at the 2 mile mark. The trail is packed to the Colchuck intersection and easy travel in the cooler hrs. If you need a second reach out and I might be able to make it work, best of luck.

will load pictures soon.

Edited April 4 by Lostbolt
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[mammothclimbs]

My schedule is not finalized yet, but I'm planning to be in WA for a few weeks early May before heading to Denali. I was just looking at lining up partners, and I'd be super keen to get out to the enchantments if conditions are looking good then, so I just sent a PM.