rat Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 cascade river road gated at roush creek (mile 20). easy travel yesterday up the road and c-j gully to the hanging glacier. snow conditions in the gully were quite stable with breakable crust over avy debris down low transitioning to hard slab above. no cornice to speak of hanging over the c-j col. hanging glacier was quiet the entire time i was there (no sun here). bivied in the schrund below the deep chimney on the left side of the ne face. a safe tent site could be located in a hollow down and left of the schrund. climbed mark bebie's route starting up the deep chimney then traversing right into the gulleys/slopes to the right. the vast majority of this route can't be seen from the road since it lies behind the leftmost buttress on the ne face. sections of alpine ice/neve 3-4 interspersed with sprindrift troughs and snow slopes to 60 degrees as well as a few sections of thin neve over rock led to the ridge not far left of the summit. again, no cornices (another benefit of el nino). easy snow/rock climbing along the ridge to the summit. rather than risk an epic in unknown terrain on the south side of the hill, i downclimbed the route with one rap off an abalakov thread at the crux section. a beautiful place and a recommended route but death on a stick in poor conditions. hats off to the rich dead first ascentionist. there are many possibilities for new mixed lines on this face as well as a runnel system on the west side of cascade peak that begins at the level of the hanging glacier. i normally don't take photos but had one of those disposable ones this time. will try to scan some photos if any are worth a shit. colin and marko: there is alot of bare talus around the north buttress' base. if you left your skis there, they may be melted out. drink, spew, fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Wild man Rat! Nice work. You went solo? I have been wondering about that Bebie rt. Doesnt sound too bad by your account. Would you call it classic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 yea, solo. i would call it an ignored classic with generally moderate difficulties but in a wild setting. i figured others may have wondered about this route since, as i recall, there is not much info in beckey's guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 rockin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 very cool, rat! i've also been wondering about this route for a while. please post photos, even if they're shitty. (pm me if you need a server to post them to) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Would like to climb J-Berg Sat-Sun. Email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 maybe, but have you checked the weather recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 How far down the road does the snow come? At what point could I put on my skis and tour up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 Nice job "rat"! Nice feat solo. Is there another route that stems off the route you were on? How did that look? Shoulda gone with you based on my turn of events. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted February 15, 2003 Author Share Posted February 15, 2003 (edited) billy goat, full snow cover on the road starts a little before mile 22. mike, the bebie route moves right out of the deep chimney/fault route (also done in winter by ?) after about 400'. the chimney/fault route looked like just steep snow climbing to a point much lower on the ridge than bebie's route. it might be nice in sept-oct though when chockstones might provide some interest. there are some variations one could do on bebie's route (a more direct start being one of them--too thin for me that day) but, in general, it is the most direct line on the left side of the face and tops out just left of the north buttress. more lines exist to the right--especially the gulley between the 2 indistinct buttresses on the ne face. i have some "1-hour photo quality" shots but don't have a scanner. "milf"---"mothers i'd liketa fuck" or "moro islamic liberation front"? you call it. Edited February 15, 2003 by rat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 Thanks Rat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted February 16, 2003 Share Posted February 16, 2003 Yeah buddy!! Very friggin' cool! Cheers, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted March 15, 2003 Author Share Posted March 15, 2003 i looked at a friend's copy of beckey's book the other day and should correct some info in my original post. if the line on beckey's photo is correct, i did not climb the bebie/stoddard route. the line i took was between the bebie/stoddard route and the 1963 route on the n.e. face and is likely easier than the b/s route. once traversing in from the deep chimney, it followed the gully system just left of the 1963 buttress---impossible to see from the road but easily picked out on the trail near cascade pass. sorry to dredge this shit up again. drink, spew, fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 rat said: sorry to dredge this shit up again. drink, spew, fight. and u rat...i must climb soon...maybe friday...u game? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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