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first ascent [TR] Selkirks - Lionshead - Circle of Life 5.11b/c, C1 FA 08/08/2022

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Trip: Selkirks - Lionshead - Circle of Life 5.11b/c, C1 FA

Trip Date: 08/08/2022

Trip Report:

I just finished putting up a project I have been working for the last couple years.  It is on the north face of Lionshead up in Selkirk mountains of northern ID.  I first heard about the potential line years ago but wasn't climbing hard enough at the time.  Then 2 years ago I started investigating and scrubbing it.  Finally after many hours of scrubbing it came together this weekend.  I do want to thank the numerous friends that I dragged up there who patiently belayed me and also spent hours cleaning and scrubbing the route.

The climb is 5 pitches long and contains a lot of really good 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbing.  There is 10 feet of pretty blank rock that earns the C1 rating.  It is straight forward aiding on a cam and a couple of fixed nuts.  For those inclined to try and free it, I would guess it goes at mid to hard 5.12??  So go get the FFA and let me know!  The crux pitch would be a classic at most crags complete with really good 5.11 finger crack to some steep laybacking/hands.  The descent is to rappel the route which helps make the route feel less committing, and anything in the 5.11 range can be pulled through (although that would be most of pitch 3!).  

Pitch 1 - 5.9
Pitch 2 - 5.10b
Pitch 3 - 5.11b/c, C1
Pitch 4 - 5.10+
Pitch 5 - 5.11b

I personally would say it is on par with the classics at WA Pass for quality of climbing although it contains a little more lichen due to lack of traffic currently.  I would definitely recommend doing it.  


The north face of Lionshead in the evening light.  The line is marked in red.



Starting up pitch 1.



Looking up the start of Pitch 2.



Starting up the crux Pitch 3.



Looking back down the top half of the crux pitch 3.  Such good climbing!!



Nearing the top of pitch 4.



The crux 5.11 roof on pitch 5.



Gear Notes:
Doubles from .2 to #3 with triples in the .3 to .75 and a single #4. A single set of nuts (offsets more useful than regular). Also a .3/.4 and .4/.5 offset cam come in very handy. 2 ropes for the rappel.

Approach Notes:
Take the normal approach to Lionshead. The route is on the north face about 100 ft to the right of the route Lion Tamer.
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 8

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