Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 OK the Oval carabiner thread was allright, but let's build on that and produce more climbing-related diversion!!! we could.... 1) spray about unclimbed lines (blah blah east face of Twin Spires blah blah North face of Steinbok) 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb on the weekend, except now its gonna rain/snow and I'm still not gonna have climbed Canadian Border 3) talk about Gear. Do you use solid shafted Friends yes or no. What's better, chalk bag on a belt, or chalk bag clipped to harness with a biner. 4) talk about ethics. leashless bolt chopping, is it OK if you helicopter in. 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. 6) play Name that Peak zzzzzz 7) discuss which hand to use for which hold and rating of a 3 move butt scraping boulder traverse 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report. 9) Guides are Alpine Pimps. discuss. 10) what is a better 5.8 handcrack: Lion's Jaw, Givler's Crack, or Octopus' Garden In the Shade 11) lie about your climbing aility and resume 12) quickdrawws - should the gates face the same direction on bottom and top biners, opposite directions, or should you use a mix of aligned and unaligned. personally i use the latter. 13) discuss whether it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 best climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. 14) what are the 5 best routes you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. 15) what was the first route you climbed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Good list Dru. I will take a shot 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb on the weekend, except now its gonna rain/snow and I'm still not gonna have climbed Canadian Border VANTAGE???!?! 3) talk about Gear. Do you use solid shafted Friends yes or no. What's better, chalk bag on a belt, or chalk bag clipped to harness with a biner. Yes, I got a #4 solid shaft. Chalk is unsightly and aid!!!! 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. Is Catbirdseat Brian Burdo? 10) what is a better 5.8 handcrack: Lion's Jaw, Givler's Crack, or Octopus' Garden In the Shade Lion's Jaw is an overrated piece of crap. I haven't climbed the other two. 11) lie about your climbing aility and resume Yes my climbing is ailing. Resume what? 12) quickdrawws - should the gates face the same direction on bottom and top biners, opposite directions, or should you use a mix of aligned and unaligned. personally i use the latter. Stiffy dogbone draws are stupid 13) discuss whether it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 best climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. Just the other night at pubclub Mattp said he did this (don't know if it was in a day though 14) what are the 5 best routes you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. You can't expect anyone to answer this unless they get to tell the stories, sorry. 15) what was the first route you climbed? Dfine "climbed", Led? Toproped? Does it need to be consensus 5th class? Besides, who cares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 1) spray about unclimbed lines (blah blah east face of Twin Spires blah blah North face of Steinbok) - The headwall above Shipwreck at Smith is sporting a couple of choice-looking steep jug-hauls. One of these days, one of these days ... 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb on the weekend, except now its gonna rain/snow and I'm still not gonna have climbed Canadian Border - Fuckin' mad SmithMud sendage goin' on, best believe that. Canada sux, yo! 3) talk about Gear. Do you use solid shafted Friends yes or no. What's better, chalk bag on a belt, or chalk bag clipped to harness with a biner. - Chalk bag on a belt, wiregate draws, and skinny ropes all the way! 4) talk about ethics. leashless bolt chopping, is it OK if you helicopter in. - Placing gear in chipped pockets takes the adventure out of sport climbing! 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. - Fuckin' Alan Watts says he's going to free the Pioneer Route in a day, and he's gonna do it in Fires and tube socks, with a rack of tube chocks, which totally rhymes. Hella bitchin', bra. 6) play Name that Peak zzzzzz - Long's Peak! Shishapangma! Nanga Parbat! Cerro Torre! The Monkey! 7) discuss which hand to use for which hold and rating of a 3 move butt scraping boulder traverse - Left hand gaston, lock off, right hand to the sloping two-finger pocket, feet up, huck for the incut edge. It's at least V7! 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report. - "My-a name is-a Luigi, and-a I-a climb-a di new-a route-a in-a the Alps-a. Is-a called "A pot of-a spaghetti," and is 8a+ with only-a natural a-bolts-a! Mama mia, that's a spicy route-a!" 9) Guides are Alpine Pimps. discuss. - Fuck yeah! Find your own bitch-ass way up the mountains, foolz! 10) what is a better 5.8 handcrack: Lion's Jaw, Givler's Crack, or Octopus' Garden In the Shade - Lion's Jaw is covered in good face holds. Does it really count as a good hand crack, despite being a good route? 11) lie about your climbing aility and resume - Fuckin' onsighted all the .14s at Smith in a day, then ate six cheeseburgers at the 7th St. Brewery. Woke up at six the next day and soloed The Backbone. 12) quickdrawws - should the gates face the same direction on bottom and top biners, opposite directions, or should you use a mix of aligned and unaligned. personally i use the latter. - Dude, gates opposed, gates opposed! 13) discuss whether it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 best climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. - Peaks? Like, mountains? 1. Eric Kubiak 2. Eric Kubiak 3. Eric Kubiak 4. Eric Kubiak 5-10. Eric Kubiak 14) what are the 5 best routes you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. - Outer Space, Chain Reaction, The Pioneer Route, Fear & Loathing, Kill The Hate 15) what was the first route you climbed? - Sky Patrol, 5.9 at the Greensprings crag outside of Ashland, Oregon. Took like 45 minutes of flailing and a lot of tension! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Quote:"discuss whether it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington." I am sure it's been done many times. And no it doesn't friends who have don't seem like supermen to me. Solid shafted friends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 15) I had done a bunch of scrambling-verging-into-oops this is scary and im soloing- terrain but my first day of roped climbing was in Sept. 1990 at Burgers and Fries cliff at Squamish. I top roped Wisecrack and Burgers & Fries and possibly Move It On Over too. In hiking boots. I flailed A LOT. Did not climb again until the next spring when i started going every weekend and soon got my own harness and biner. switched from hip belay to fancy figure 8. i remember first trying to TR Neat & Ciool wearing a pair of rock shoes too big for me over 2 pairs of wool socks, with no chalk. failed completely. came back the next day with my own brand new rock shoes, and a chalk bag, and sent . best feeling ever. i was hooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 3) solid shafted friends rock. i got a couple old ones and they are indestructible. people have used em for like 20 years ( i got a few second hand) and still going good. BUT i would not use them as a first choice. they are best for when you need multiples of a size, as the X2, X3, x4 etc. multiple pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Thanks Dru. Nice diversion. 1) spray about unclimbed lines (blah blah east face of Twin Spires blah blah North face of Steinbok) There's this really cool line out in the Grand Canyon of the Toloumne somewhere between mile 15 and 20. Not telling exactly where though. 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb on the weekend, except now its gonna rain/snow and I'm still not gonna have climbed Canadian Border City Park, Thin Fingers on top rope after aiding up it. 3) talk about Gear. Do you use solid shafted Friends yes or no. What's better, chalk bag on a belt, or chalk bag clipped to harness with a biner. Chalk bag on a 6mm cord tied with a square knot. That way you've always got an extra sling. 4) talk about ethics. leashless bolt chopping, is it OK if you helicopter in. 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. A recent pick up line used by Fred. "Were't we married once?" 6) play Name that Peak zzzzzz Mt. Si 7) discuss which hand to use for which hold and rating of a 3 move butt scraping boulder traverse tiny crimper ® to the hand slap (L) to the jug (dyno match). 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report. 9) Guides are Alpine Pimps. discuss. Actually aren't the guide companies the pimps and the guides the shores? 10) what is a better 5.8 handcrack: Lion's Jaw, Givler's Crack, or Octopus' Garden In the Shade None of them. Mosquito is the best hand crack. 12) quickdrawws - should the gates face the same direction on bottom and top biners, opposite directions, or should you use a mix of aligned and unaligned. personally i use the latter. You're scary dru. We'll use my draws the next time we're in Smith. 14) what are the 5 best routes you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. Overhanging Bypass, West Crack, Damnation, Rock On, Haystack (Lover's Leap), the approach to Snake Dike 15) what was the first route you climbed? Lady Bug at Lover's Leap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 3) solid shafted friends rock. i got a couple old ones and they are indestructible. people have used em for like 20 years ( i got a few second hand) and still going good. BUT i would not use them as a first choice. they are best for when you need multiples of a size, as the X2, X3, x4 etc. multiple pieces. I've been using my set for up to 18 years now. Some of them have gone through 4 sets of webbing (the ones with the nuts on the ends of the axles.) They are definately indestructable and my only complaint is the extra time needed to get them into horizontal placements. Combined with the 3 smallest HB quadcams and the 3 smallest tcus, I have never desired anything else in the cam department. Well maybe some of those slider nut thingys that I borrowed once that got me through some weird aid moves when nothing else I had would work. It was the weirdest thing; I stuck one into this labia-looking crack. The only way it would stay is if it was so deep that I couldn't see it (n I hate it when that happens.) Stepping on and bouncing was way creepy, but it held. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 13.)Figure you know this already Erik doesn't live here anymore...he now represents east coast not PNW....sorry, you'll have to pick someone else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. Is Catbirdseat Brian Burdo? Leave me out of this. Brian Burdo is a better climber than I'll ever be. I'm just a neophyte just starting to make his way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mer Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 i remember first trying to TR Neat & Cool wearing a pair of rock shoes too big for me over 2 pairs of wool socks, with no chalk. failed completely. came back the next day with my own brand new rock shoes, and a chalk bag, and sent . best feeling ever. i was hooked. Ah, the hook I think I bit on some scruffy little piece of rock outside of McBride BC, I was thrashing away in my borrowed gear while someone on the ground was trying to explain ‘layback’. I’m thinking that fool does not know what he’s talking about, then click--the layback came together and up I went. Of course at first you don’t realize that the hook is in. It only begins to dawn when you get down off something and you’re bleeding massively but didn’t notice when it happened. Or you start looking at restaurant menus and figuring out the price of dinner in chocks and biners, but by then you're too far gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Chalk bag on a belt for sure! 15) First rock route, some 5.4 in estes park, CO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 heh. i remember sitting in the UBC pub in 2nd year listening to my friend Noel argue with himself - hamburger or carabiner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Quote: OK the Oval carabiner thread was allright, but let's build on that and produce more climbing-related diversion!!! we could.... ROUND II 1) spray about climbed lines THAT SHOULD BE CHOPPED(blah blah blah, Dan's DD should have been chopped because) 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb VIA NUDE ASCENT IN THE NEXT YEAR, 3) talk about Gear. DO YOU THINK 3 PLY HEMP OR GOLDLINE IS BETTER. What's better, PINK LYCRA OR NEON GREEN STRIPES (DFA?) 4) talk about ethics. WHEN IS IT "OK" TO PEE ON YOUR PARTNER AND/OR OTHER PARTIES ON YOUR ROUTE 5) make up gossip about DRU, BRIAN BOYTONO etc. 6) play Name that PORNO STAR ??????? 7) discuss which hand to use FOR HOLDING BEER WHILE BELAYING 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report ABOUT A GETTING STUCK ON A MOUNTAIN WITH TWO WOMEN IN A TWO-PERSON TENT. 9) HOW TO TELL IF ALPINE HOOKERS ARE UNDERCOVER CLIMBING CHICKS. discuss. 10) what is THE BEST ROUTE TO SOLO IN NW? BEACON ROCKS' SOUTHEAST CORNER, SMITH'S SUPERSLAB, OR LEAVENWORTHS GIVLERS DOME 11) TELL THE TRUTH about your climbing aility and resume 12) quickdrawws - ARE YOU FOR THE BLACK-CLAD VILLIAN OR THE WHITE-HAT GOOD GUY 13) discuss whether it would be possible to CLIMB 30 EXIT 38 ROUTES in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 STUPIDIST climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. 14) what are the 5 best WOMEN/MEN you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. 15) what was the first route you SPRAYED THAT YOU CLIMBED ON CC.COM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 Condensed Version: OK Oval but spray about chestbeat gonna climb on the Border talk about Gear Do you shaft Friends bag harness ethics. is it OK if you helicopter gossip which hand to use for butt scraping Guides . 10) what is a better crack mix personally i use it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, spraying the route you climbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 16, 2003 Share Posted February 16, 2003 texplorer said: Quote: OK the Oval carabiner thread was allright, but let's build on that and produce more climbing-related diversion!!! we could.... ROUND II 1) spray about climbed lines THAT SHOULD BE CHOPPED(blah blah blah, Dan's DD should have been chopped because) 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb VIA NUDE ASCENT IN THE NEXT YEAR, 3) talk about Gear. DO YOU THINK 3 PLY HEMP OR GOLDLINE IS BETTER. What's better, PINK LYCRA OR NEON GREEN STRIPES (DFA?) 4) talk about ethics. WHEN IS IT "OK" TO PEE ON YOUR PARTNER AND/OR OTHER PARTIES ON YOUR ROUTE 5) make up gossip about DRU, BRIAN BOYTONO etc. 6) play Name that PORNO STAR ??????? 7) discuss which hand to use FOR HOLDING BEER WHILE BELAYING 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report ABOUT A GETTING STUCK ON A MOUNTAIN WITH TWO WOMEN IN A TWO-PERSON TENT. 9) HOW TO TELL IF ALPINE HOOKERS ARE UNDERCOVER CLIMBING CHICKS. discuss. 10) what is THE BEST ROUTE TO SOLO IN NW? BEACON ROCKS' SOUTHEAST CORNER, SMITH'S SUPERSLAB, OR LEAVENWORTHS GIVLERS DOME 11) TELL THE TRUTH about your climbing aility and resume 12) quickdrawws - ARE YOU FOR THE BLACK-CLAD VILLIAN OR THE WHITE-HAT GOOD GUY 13) discuss whether it would be possible to CLIMB 30 EXIT 38 ROUTES in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 STUPIDIST climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. 14) what are the 5 best WOMEN/MEN you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. 15) what was the first route you SPRAYED THAT YOU CLIMBED ON CC.COM? Nice list Tex. Topics #2, 4, 8, 9, and 11 could be some good not directly related to climbing entertainment. As someone else mentioned a few weeks ago kissing and telling is poor form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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