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JasonG

[TR] Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall 05/30/2021

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Trip: Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall

Trip Date: 05/30/2021

Trip Report:

Ever since this route has become popular, I've wanted to check it out.  Jack is hard to ignore from anywhere, but especially from Ross Lake, where my family and I typically like to camp for a week each August.  While I have climbed Jack from the east side, the north side is the show stopper from Ross, with the giant Nohokomeen Glacier dominated the view from the north end of the lake. In the words of @Trent (though he couldn't join @therunningdog @sparverius @kmfoerster and I),  "It must be climbed!"  And so we did.

But it wasn't fast.  We spread our effort over three days, with one full day for the summit and associated lounging, and another day on either end for approaching and running away.  We waited until the highway was open, so there was none of that uncivilized biking stuff you might have seen on nwhikers.  No way!  We were, uh, civilized.  And very serious- so serious this mountain climbing business.  No joking, no laughing, no resting, and certainly no campfire or whiskey... It was all business and very professional.  That's how we roll.

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Gear Notes:
Snowshoes were handy for portions....ice axe, light 2nd tool, aluminum crampons, helmet, light glacier gear. We soloed the headwall up and down

Approach Notes:
East Bank trail and then up by May Creek. East bank trail is mostly cut out, only one log to hop over. Light brush and pretty straightforward travel and routefinding up the hill, based on where it looks best on the map. Nohokomeen Headwall is to about 50-55 degrees and the summit ridge is exposed.
  • Like 5
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 2

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Great trip, great company! Amazing photos as always Jason. I thought the route was far more interesting than some of the other steep snow climbs in the range.

  • Like 1

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When I climbed Jack, I exclaimed "once and done" when back at the cars.  But after seeing this TR, I'm rethinking that.... :) TFPU!

 

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That was a great trip. We did it the weekend before you. Fun ridge weaving through the cornices.

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