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JasonG

[TR] Jack - EastRidge 9/13/2008

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Trip: Jack - EastRidge

 

Date: 9/13/2008

 

Trip Report:

Well, this is going to be short and sweet because I am a dad now and need my sleep. Since there is no TR per se for this route in the database (but thanks to curtveld for some great info), I figure folks might be interested.

 

A short while ago Tim, T.J. and myself hiked our butts up to Jerry Lakes for leisurely assault on Jack, somewhere around 48 hours car to car.

 

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The hike in was fast on trail up to Crater Lake and then some cross country travel around Crater, past the Jerry Glacier:

 

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Including some nice views over to fall colors on Jakita Ridge:

 

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Jerry Lakes are a great spot to camp, with fine views, and decent fishing (Mmmm, furry trout):

 

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On our summit day, we climbed above the lakes and got a view of the route (the right skyline):

 

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. . .then dropped a disheartening amount on the other side, and began our climb up to the east glacier. We had to do some wet, loose, 4th class scrambling to get on the ridge itself (the glacier was pretty broken, otherwise it is probably straightforward snow travel), but once on it the climbing was surprisingly good:

 

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As Beckey says, pretty solid 3rd and 4th class, with a snow bit towards the top. We belayed a short bit right before the summit, but pretty much just carefully scrambled the rest. I think it took us about 3 hours to get to the ridge, a couple hours climbing up, and a couple hours on the summit delaying the reportedly unsavory descent. Good times, and some pretty expansive summit views:

 

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Then came the not so good times, the descent down the south face. See if you can find two climbers here:

 

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While never very serious, it is a long and tedious descent where you have to stay on your toes. Maybe it helps if you have come up this way before, but we had not, so it was slow going. This type of stuff is not fun no matter how you cut it:

 

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All in all it was a great trip to a mountain I have wanted to climb for some time. We basically went up the right skyline in the photo below and came down the middle of the mountain:

 

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And it this report wouldn't be complete without a team photo:

 

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Some fall colors:

 

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And me looking like an idiot:

 

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Gear Notes:

Fly rod, 8.5mm half rope, a few nuts, a couple of tri-cams, crampons, and axe. Don't forget your HELMET!

 

Approach Notes:

A long way up and down and up and down.

Edited by Heinrich

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Apologies, the board doesn't seem to like more than 10 photos in a single post! I fixed it.

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Fantastic photos, as usual, Jason. And a hell of an effort in 48 hours. Hope it was spread over three days, at least.

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Oh yeah, most certainly three days. It actually was a pretty nice trip, especially with the fishing and all. I kept on thinking what a long descent down the east ridge that must have been for you and Andy, carrying overnight gear too!

 

JG

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