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[TR] Forbidden - East Ridge 07/15/2020


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Trip: Forbidden - East Ridge

Trip Date: 07/15/2020

Trip Report:

A classic ridge scramble, with about 40 ft of real climbing (on the whole route). 

There is still a ton of snow, so crampons and ice axe pretty much a must in the morning. 

East Ledge descent- Raps have good slings, ledges are snow free. 

Two stream crossings are the crux of the trip. Due to amount of snow, the water volume is still really high. 

Gear Notes:
A small set of stoppers, single set of cams , doubles in finger size (yellow and orange TCU's), one 60m half rope, lots of slings (bring at least 4 double length.

Approach Notes:
snow is down to tree line in the basin.
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I have never been on it but I did assist with a rescue on the lower pitches.   SOme guy pulled off a big block and got pretty beat up by the fall and the block.  His partner found us in the parking lot, then he went down to call 911. 

By the time we got to boston basin, a small heli did a recon.  We got to the victim and he was delirious, babbling, not bleeding badly but in bad shape.  We had just made the victim and the other partner anchor more secure, when a larger heli swooped in and dropped off their climbing ranger Kelly. She took over and another EMT was lowered, connected the fellow and they flew away dangling below. 

that was wild to watch.  We then walked the other partners back down to thier car and then back up to boston basin.  man I had good legs back then.  :)


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Great position, views are spectacular, rock not as solid as Bugs, but not bad. I would feel comfortable doing the whole thing with fivetennies approach shoes. For a solid 5.9 climber it will be mostly a scramble, with short sections of climbing. Enjoyed it a lot. Crux were 2 steam crossings, particularly the second one from the bottom. 

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