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UphillSwimming

Spring Ice in the PNW

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Hi all, posting this to a few forums as I'm not sure where would be best to ask.

New to this site and to the PNW (this is my first spring here)...wondering where I might look around this time of year for any ice that's left. Looking for anything in the AI/WI 3-4 range, long approaches or any other logistical stuff is no worries. Thanks so much in advance!

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Most water ice will be melted out by now, or if still in it will be sketchy to climb. That includes things like Triple Coulouirs and North Face R Gully. Things that climb year-round ice features such as Baker's N Ridge will be the go to. 

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Just saw a report that that the Right Gully on NF Hood goes, but is on its way out. 

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April to June is the spring alpine ice season in the Stuart Range.  Lotsa routes, but only a few get much traffic.  Many of the routes that have been climbed remain undocumented (intentionally).   There's usually a late fall / early winter alpine ice season as well.  These routes are typically mixed, not pure ice, so ya need to be ready for that .  The good part is that its usually pretty forgiving mixed climbing, not the "new age" mixed terror.

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n buttress col on colchuck but get a early start (headlamp) to avoid the morning sun on lower gulley.

triple C dragontail should be good for a couple more weeks.  I saw someones photo that the ice pitch looked thin or bare rock though.  be prepared to go around that.

 

 

 

Edited by genepires

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