BandedGlacier Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 With only Dark and Redoubt left on my list im looking to compile any information from those that have had sucess on Redoubt in the past. Taking the typical Chilliwack Lake area approach for a summit attempt in late spring what kind of snow pack should I expect, what are the schrund conditions in june, and should i anticipate mixed climbing condtions (exposed 3rd and 4th rock with significant runout) and the need for a few racks of rock pro or rather a uniform cover? Please Email me NoFair171@aol.com with pictures or post your thoughts. But who could unlearn all the facts that i've learned As I sat in their chairs and my synapses burned And the torture of chalk dust collects on my tounge Thoughts follow my vision and dance in the sun All of my vasoconstrictors come slowly undone Can't this wait till im old? Can't I live while i'm young? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 With only Dark and Redoubt left on my list List of what? Only those two left and you've climbed every mountain you ever want to climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 Check bivouac.com and Dru's trip report on Redoubt. I saw a slideshow about a traverse through that area and it looks like the toughest part on the approach is like 600 feet of class 3-4 bushes and rock near the waterfalls below Silver Lake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BandedGlacier Posted February 8, 2003 Author Share Posted February 8, 2003 Since 14 when I first came west and cimbed Hood I made a list of peaks to bag before My love for the Cascades was over run by more practical things like my degree. The list in order of completion... Hood, South Sister (Charity), Ranier, Olympus, Baker, Adams, Bonanza, Lyle, Logan, Eagle cap, North Sister (Hope - in sandals) Once I reached the Apogee at Logan I realized that the Cascades has so much to offer, something I would become easily obsessed in had I not been accepted to Prescott for the fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 10, 2003 Share Posted February 10, 2003 what kind of snow pack should I expect, what are the schrund conditions in june, and should i anticipate mixed climbing condtions (exposed 3rd and 4th rock with significant runout) and the need for a few racks of rock pro or rather a uniform cover? 1) who knows what snow pack will be like in June. maybe its gonna snow a lot in april and may 2) depends on how much snow there is 3) ditto but if you are on snow all the way there will not be "runout 3rd and 4th" (which classes are typically run out anyways....) 4) A few RACKS???? we did it with 6 tri cams and 6 pins but that was the rock variation to finish (8 pitches to 5.6 or 5.7) if you just go up the couloir you might be able to get away with NO rock pro. then again it depends on snowpack which there is no way to judge now anyways how it will be like in june. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 10, 2003 Share Posted February 10, 2003 It should be icy with the low snow year and all. The thing I remmember most is the approach, it was spectacular! Time to expand your list , though a good one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 10, 2003 Share Posted February 10, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BandedGlacier Posted February 12, 2003 Author Share Posted February 12, 2003 Thanks for the feedback and the bits of beta. After reading into the Beckey guide i've decided on a Redoubt, Spickard, Custer, and Rahm trip sometime in late spring. 1: Appoach to Redoubt via Depot Creek 2: Climb Redobt via NE face, move to high camp at the saddle above Silver Lake 3: Climb Spickard Via N. Glacier, eat cinnamon rolls back at the saddle 4: Climb from Siver Lake via. Southeast Face to summit of Custer, then traverse the East ridge to Rahm, decend to Silver Lake and if time permits read naked before acending back to the saddle. 5: Out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 I want to do this same trip in late Spring exactly how you mentioned. The only problem is none of my climbing partners will be able to get 4 days off at once for quite a while. If you don't have a partner in mind when the time comes, drop me an e-mail. Climbing resume available upon request. I was thinking late May-Early June (maybe late May will be more likely with the low snowpack we have thus far into the season). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 Whoa ... wait a minute, I didn't see the part about reading naked. I usually make it a point not to get too close to naked men. Plus I wouldn't want to get in the way of your solitary hobbies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BandedGlacier Posted February 12, 2003 Author Share Posted February 12, 2003 OK.....I can see how a comment such as this could be construde as something very odd especially in the presence of a total stranger. It should be taken with a grain of salt, I mean how many places in this world can you actually read naked, cofortably? If your on the toe of some desolate glacier at the edge of a high alpine lake I think some of social norms would go out the window. In short, if the presence of backcountry nudity offends you i'm at loss of words for justification, some times people just need to do weird things, like read naked while sittng upon a sheet of ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 thats pretty funny man , more power to ya, I'll stick to reading naked in bed with my wife... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 Well, I guess it all depends on what you're reading when you really get down to it. There's a big difference between reading the funnies [naked] and reading the latest copy of studpuppy [naked]. I get cold easy, so being completely naked in the mountains only happens to me when I'm changing my britches out -- something that only occurs when the conditions are primo. I guess if it comes down to it, I could always hide in my bivvy sac when you're having one of those naked reading episodes -- this is the type of thing I'm willing to do to climb great mountains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 hazards of being naked in mountains include cold induced shrinkage, sun/wind burn on normally unexposed areas, attacks of , and no place to put your sponsors logos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BandedGlacier Posted February 12, 2003 Author Share Posted February 12, 2003 It would be safe to say that unless I encounted strikingly warm afternoon conditions with no wind and some 3pm Northern Cascade sundogs the whole reading thing would probably be out of the question. But, if some divine force is willing to grant me conditons such as this you can bet on a post of me, naked as sin with some Plath, Didion, or Essential Tibetian Philosophy shielding my delicates from the sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 www.snowsloggingdreadlockhippiefromeugene.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 something tells me i don't want to click on that link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Mt. Redoubt the other day as seen from Hannegan Peak to the west...(see attachment) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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