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Woodcutter

[TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

Trip Date: 04/05/2019

There is no bergschrund, the ice pitches are so minor that we barely slowed down.

The top West ridge was full value, ice & mixed conditions were fantastic with cracks open to take gear, but accumulation in the backs of cracks in the top pitches making the best mixed conditions I've ever had in the Enchantments, but I would say that since Danny lead the technical jazz. No photos up there as we were hauling ass & cold.

Very scary avi conditions on the descent with propagating cracks on the Sherpa Glacier & enough slabs peeling off to make a guy very happy to be down. Also white-out & nuclear winds on summit were unforgettable. We climbed straight up the west ridge after the tiny notch on exit from the north. I thought this was great, but the ledge ~30 below the tiny notch may be a better route..   14 hours tent to tent (in the 5400vf meadow)

Photos are not in order.....

 



Looking down N face exiting to tiny notch:IMG_1316.thumb.JPG.acfaa95ba6284c109c81cb7351d10e6e.JPGIMG_1310.thumb.JPG.79a81ad3acecebe2df4d6c79d5c10627.JPGIMG_1305.thumb.JPG.84715d014e2e1cb5014c9a5592b1914a.JPGExit top of couloirIMG_1298.thumb.JPG.84e13077a8fcb8dd1ef36d98b562bb97.JPGIMG_1300.thumb.JPG.294330af83aa83d9758acddd0f784a0d.JPGIce pitches...minorIMG_1303.thumb.JPG.463313c45256250eed7cf736fae81d91.JPG

 

Gear Notes:
Small cams 0.3 -2", rack offset wires, pins: LA, KB, beak, didn't use screws except one shit one.

Approach Notes:
Snowshoes from 1/2 way up road & to camp. No snowshoes above 5400vf. Very bad avi conditions on descent on Sherpa Glacier. GPS (or solid previous knowledge) essential to get off summit in nasty storm.

 

Stuart west ridge April 2019.jpeg

Edited by Woodcutter
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Thanks for the post!  It brought back lots of memories from my trip of the SGC several years back.  I also thought those West Ridge mixed pitches were some of the best I have climbed......so much rime ice!  Propagating cracks on the Sherpa though....scary!  Nice job!

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Totally wicked.  Glad you dodged the avy dragon!  That topo is fantastic.... 

Brings back good memories of a trip long ago with @Juan Sharp and @DPS and Kurt Hicks.....

 

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Brexit, my fine friend, is the resurrected zombie corpse of Thatcher-era anti-Europe nationalism. Brought back to life by the lackbeard Cameron (who then resigned to become a fucking shepard, for real), and fueled by viscous Trumpian down-economy jobs shortage, and kneaded by the bitch May into a great big mess, the kind of mess that when you make one, you apologize to all concerned and ask forgiveness and can everything please go back to how it was before. 'I'm really sorry', that kind of thing. 

Unfortunately no one over there has the political chops to execute a climb-down, so that's the end of the UK for a few more years. Oh Woe is me...………………...

 

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On 4/15/2019 at 12:25 PM, Woodcutter said:

Brexit, my fine friend, is the resurrected zombie corpse of Thatcher-era anti-Europe nationalism. Brought back to life by the lackbeard Cameron (who then resigned to become a fucking shepard, for real), and fueled by viscous Trumpian down-economy jobs shortage, and kneaded by the bitch May into a great big mess, the kind of mess that when you make one, you apologize to all concerned and ask forgiveness and can everything please go back to how it was before. 'I'm really sorry', that kind of thing. 

Unfortunately no one over there has the political chops to execute a climb-down, so that's the end of the UK for a few more years. Oh Woe is me...………………...

 

You bring the cabbage and I'll supply the hammers next time you're over.

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On ‎4‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 11:50 AM, JasonG said:

Totally wicked.  Glad you dodged the avy dragon!  That topo is fantastic.... 

Brings back good memories of a trip long ago with @Juan Sharp and @DPS and Kurt Hicks.....

 

I remember that it was a long walk but at least my feet hurt.

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