[TR] MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall 03/10/2019

[kadyakerbob]

Trip: MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall

Trip Date: 03/10/2019

Trip Report:

 

(please forgive my subpar writing ability) Mike and I started up from Timberline at 5am on Sunday with our eyes set on the Reid headwall.  As we headed up the groomers to the top of palmer everything was going smooth.  Once above palmer we slowly made our way over to illumination rock, breaking trail in some good old thigh deep powder.  One would think that this would be a pretty good sign that the Reid headwall is probably not in, but we were both too stubborn to call it.  We stopped for a quick second once we hit Illumination rock to put our crampons on and then headed down to the base of Reid headwall.  

 

The first 20 feet started out as really nice hard packed snow and them quickly turned into thigh to mid chest deep powder.  We managed to make it about 70% of the way to the base before we decided that it would take us a week to wade through the snow to the base.  At this point we had two options, option A) head home, option B) slog through the thigh deep snow back up and over to the Devils kitchen headwall.  Naturally we went with option B)

After a good effort to get up to DKH we ran into another party down below that was aiming for the DKH.  On any other day with snow conditions not so unforgiving we might have beat them to the base of the route.  Not today though, these smart guys were skinning up like the rest of the smart people on the mountain.  As we followed up through the deep snow we were faced with another dilemma.  Do we follow these guys up the regular DKH route or give them some space like good humans and find another route.  Once again we went with the second option and decided to head up to the DKH Variation on the right.  

As we headed up the snow was just getting worse, but we kept going optimistic that maybe we would find some ice or firm snow.  

Once we got to the beginning of the first step in the DKH variation route it quickly became evident that this was not in.  To really confirm this i headed up the first step to see what the snow was like above.  To my surprise it was total shit.... Now what do we do? Give up and finally call it a day? Definitely not! So we headed back down and waded through the snow once again over to the standard DKH route thinking that the two guys in front of us must be more or less off by now.  Bingo! finally some decent climbing conditions.  

Looking up into the main couloir.  

Mike climbing up the first Ice step. 

Looking up the Second ice step.  Conditions were really good on this and the Ice was thick.  Mike at the bottom of the second ice step.

getting the rope organized below the second ice step. 

Mike topping out the second ice step. 

 

Looking up towards the final slopes to the summit.  The climbing was really mellow from here on up.  mike coming up the last little bit before the summit ridge

Summit ridge finally! 

All in all our day was longer than usual but we finally managed to climb something!  DKH is definitely in good conditions right now.  Ice is fairly thick and does take screws nicely.  No need for really anything other than a handful of short screws right now.  

Gear Notes:
3 Ice screws

Approach Notes:
Thigh deep powder

Edited March 22, 2019 by kadyakerbob
Added new photos

[ScaredSilly]

Nice perseverance, but you were not in powder but Cascade Cement :-)

[christophbenells]

 

 

 Beautiful photo, this is what draws us to the mountains

[JasonG]

27 minutes ago, christophbenells said:

this is what draws us to the mountains

I always think this when I'm wallowing waist deep in the hills.

[Dylan Colon]

What is the condition of the Pearly Gates right now (or a few days ago, at least)? Enough snow for a rare chance to ski?

[Asfahl]

Way to hang with it, despite that snow pack! That's deeeep! Looks like you really earned that quality ice with your wallowing down low.  I'm guessing there's been some consolidation since your pictures, but here's hoping the warm temps over the next 10-14 days don't up the avy danger or ruin the snowpack otherwise - planning a visit at the end of the month.