Glacier Peak Advice

[gb5]

Hey everyone! I am hoping to get a little info on Glacier Peak. I just day tripped Rainier with a buddy last weekend and have volcano fever, with Glacier being my last in WA. Originally planned to ski it, but I'm impatient. 

I would love to hike it solo via disappointment peak this weekend. It looks like there will be a solid 7 days of sunny weather building up to the weekend with daily highs above freezing, and additionally, it's all south facing. I am wondering if anyone has any experience on the peak this time of year and if it's possible (no guarantees obviously) to ditch the crampons and axe and just scramble it off glacier?

[JasonG]

While it may be possible, I don't ever leave the crampons and axe at home on a major peak this time of year.  It is a long way to go to be turned around by a section of icy neve.  But I don't have firsthand experience on Dakobed this time of year.

[gb5]

Thanks and you're probably right. I actually had a friend fly over Glacier yesterday who told me that the snow coverage above 8000 looked fairly full, so it sounds like some technical gear is in good order. 

Edited October 17, 2018 by gb5

[AlpineK]

These days the most common route is via the White Chuck Basin.  It's a long truck but not bad.

Scrambling with snow and an ice ax are nice until you get below the Cool Glacier.  From below the glacier until the summit snow/glacier condition are present

You'll have to make a judgement on what you're comfortable with.  It's fairly standard glacier climbing but weather and conditions can change or move in.

[genepires]

why would anyone climb a mountain without an ice axe?  coolest part of trip is the summit selfie branishing your weapon of choice.  standing tool-less looks lame.  standing with axe poised over head looks savage.

But seriously, it is always a good idea to travel with a axe if you think there is at least a small chance of walking on snow.  Self arrest on summer/fall snow is difficult, if not impossible,  without one.  there are too many bodies stacked up at the bottom of snow slopes from being unable to self arrest.  best to stack odds in your favor.  think of this as a chance to spend some money, that you may not have, on one of those ultra light axes that you have been drooling over for a while.  you won't notice the extra weight but gain massive "cool points" with the ladies.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I skied it in May which was great, but I can’t imagine not having an axe at least.  It’s still chilly and firm up there at times, even if not technically freezing.  Way worth the weight to just cruise up/down the snow and not have to pick away at the choosy rock if you have that option.

[gb5]

Thanks everyone. I ended up using the axe for the last 400 feet. For future reference, the summit pyramid could have been scrambled due to ideal late-season conditions, but it was a heck of a lot faster with an axe. Snow was too cooked for crampons.

Edited October 21, 2018 by gb5