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pyramid/j-berg conditions longshot


rat

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Just got an email from a guy who reported that they completed a seven pitch mixed route on the East Face of Pyramid Peak. He rated the route D with mixed ground up to ninety degrees, WI 3. Supposedly there is one pitch of M4.

 

That's all the beta he gave me. Hopefully, he or one of the others on this climb will decide to post a complete trip report.

 

Jason

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Hey Rat. I did see your tracks. I noticed them first where they crossed the snowcone/slope over to the base of the face and then I picked them out again from on the route. It looks like you picked a better line for the approach. Did you come from the lake? We continued up the snow cone into the gully couloir on the left and then climbed up a depression/groove on the right hand side of the gully to access the face and then up from there. We came to the same conclusion that it looks like you did with the right hand side of the face, not enough ice. It there was a little more of the frozen stuff it looks like there would be some stellar lines there.

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Hey Rat. I did see your tracks. I noticed them first where they crossed the snowcone/slope over to the base of the face and then I picked them out again from on the route. It looks like you picked a better line for the approach. Did you come from the lake? We continued up the snow cone into the gully couloir on the left and then climbed up a depression/groove on the right hand side of the gully to access the face and then up from there. We came to the same conclusion that it looks like you did with the right hand side of the face, not enough ice. It there was a little more of the frozen stuff it looks like there would be some stellar lines there.

 

yea, we went up to the ridge from the lake. pretty easy going but some crap snow/tight trees along parts of the ridge. definitely room for some more lines on that face and the north face right of the north buttress. we might have been on bob "hyperbole" cotter's route but i don't have beckey's bible so am not sure. glad to hear lots of people went out and got shit done last weekend.

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