iain Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 Iain, Did you climb the cliffs on Sunday? Funguy and I met a climber on Sat. with PMR who said she was going to be climbing them on Sun. There were a bunch of PMR out there this weekend. I was not climbing with her however. She chose an alternate route. Quote
wayne Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 When the steele cliffs look blue , they are great Quote
iain Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 nice photo. did you run into the dude who lost a crampon and was forced to bivy high on the route this weekend? Quote
Alex Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 Iain too bad you didnt come up, I also did that Wy'east (2a) variation Saturday. That was pretty nice, climbing up and through Steel Cliff was really neat, alot more elevation gain than you think it will be initially. I liked the ridge walk and the nice exposed finish with the deathfall potential there at the end Quote
sketchfest Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 What you think after 3 failed attempts at Leutholds we were gonna fail again? No way dude, we headed over and did variation 14a of the Reid; two tools, no rope, no pro, great exposure and very icy. The only incident was a large baseball size ice chunk that careened off of the back of my hand 100' from the top, bruised my hand and now my middle finger is completely numb. Great climb! Quote
iain Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 Nope but we found his crampon! hmm he was escorted down the mountain by some PMR folks, I might be able to reconnect him with it. I'll see if I can get his contact info and let you know, he would probably like to have it back. Thanks. Quote
Alasdair Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 I will second the excellent climbing conditions on hood right now. Was up there this weekend and managed to hit the summit three times via the West crater rim, Leuthold and the hogsback. Leuthold was in really good shape mostly ice for the last 1000 ft. Quote
MtnHigh Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 I packed out the crampon in an effort to keep garbage off of Hood. After inspecting the crampon at home last night I tossed it in the trash. The bar that connects the front section to the rear section is damaged. I guess I'll have to retrieve the POS from the gargage can if the guy wants it back. Iain, let me know. Â I dropped an ATC at 10,000' on the Reid HW. Will someone please return the favor and retieve my Hood garbage. Thank you Quote
CraigA Posted February 11, 2003 Author Posted February 11, 2003 went up the ramp on the toe (meets up with Wy'East after some negotiation of the cliffs). Had to turn back because partner was not feeling well and had an aura of an oncoming migraine which can blur his vision! Nice direct alternative to Wy'East. All the fun, none of the slog, excellent exposure. Â Sabertooth and I were on the left-most gulley leading up to the base of steel cliff and saw two people decending. We yelled down and asked how conditions were, they responded things looked great...."go for it"! Iain, was that you. Thanks for the advice if it was, we traversed over at the base of steel cliff and finished Wy'East....what a bitchen route! Â Alex, I agree; the ridge walk with death fall potential was quite the "ass-puckering" experience. Â Craig Quote
iain Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 Yes it was Craig, you must have wondered why people would be bailing with such incredible conditions. Believe me it was one of the hardest turnarounds for me in quite awhile. Good to see someone got something out of it. Quote
gorillapete Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 Nope but we found his crampon! I think it was a Grivel Aluminum one. Pete has it. Â Wouldn't like to do THAT route with one crampon. Nice weekend for a bivy though! Â That was my crampon. Please keep it in the rubbish, I want nothing to do with it. I am still pretty upset with the timing it chose to let me down. Â For the record, I was escorted down by my homie MC who happens to be PMR, I was in fine shape. I can't say I had a great time that night wrapped in a space blanket or 1 footing it the day before, but I had the means to call in a rescue and chose not to. The circumstances of my situation changed drastically when I lost my crampon, but I never felt like I lost contrl of the situation. That was definitely a landmark trip for me, though. Â I can't believe word of this has gotten around so fast. Quote
iain Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 hahaha this site is worse than a bored housewives' sewing circle. and if you so much as sneeze on hood and you'll hear about it on KGW. Quote
rbw1966 Posted February 16, 2003 Posted February 16, 2003 Went up and climbed the West Crater Rim early Saturday morning. Conditions were pretty favorable except for some persistent clouds just above the summit until the bad stuff rolled in as I descended. Also, got slammed by a blast of wind as I raised over the cornice protecting the crater rim that knocked me back down the south side a few feet. I belly-flopped over the lip of the ridge to the north side but the wind was just too much to try and deal with so I retreated back onto the south side of the crater rim. I traversed it over to the top of the Hogsback and then descended back down the mountain. Â Lots of loading on the south aspect of the ridge made things a bit spicey but overall a pretty mellow excursion. Â Aside from two fellows climbing Leutholds I didn't run into anyone else the entire time until the descent and then only saw two other climbers. Quote
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