Yossarian

A may be nitpicking here, but I don't think that monkey should be wearing shoes.

mattp, Got a question about Dreamer...I'm assuming you've been up it from your post. Tried it last year but w/o topo got off route. After first few pitches we went up a bolt protected slab (felt like 5.10). I think we were too far left as we were close to the big gully. Does Dreamer go up the obvious, large crack that is filled with bushes?

"The client is trying to kill you, the client is trying to kill himself, and the client is trying to kill the rest of the clients." - The 3 rules of mountain guiding found a bunch of climbn' quotes, I'll be spraying 'em around for awhile.

"It's not advisable to drink too much strong liquors while climbing in the Cascades. If, however, you are going to fall over a cliff, it's advisable to be thoroughly intoxicated when you do so" - Tacoma Alpinist (plagiarized)

STEP 1: Capture medium to large sized snafu-hound. STEP 2: Insert nut tool in snafu's rectum to make a 7 inch long incesion along its belly. STEP 3: Place hand inside the little bugger utilizing the warmth from its internal organs. Other modifications can be made including wrapping the tail around your wrist to make a keeper leash. Can also be used to make an interesting puppet show for the kids!

quote: Originally posted by highclimb: just keepin this at the top Can you do that? Isn't there rules against monopolizing the message board? Good photo.

To venture further away from the topic but to expand on Beck's comments... I also found spectra to fail before its rated strength. In a study comparing perlon and spectra on a tensile test machine, the spectra failed about 20% below its rated strength. However, it is also worth noting that all failure points were at the point where the cord was tied around the biner.

quote: Originally posted by Beck: any fall that generates any movement prior to loading is a dynamic fall. I think I understand what you are saying, but looking at your definition of a dynamic fall, it seems ALL falls would fall under this classification. After all, if there is no downward movement your not really falling are you?

I too used to get tangled in bug nets. Now, from the makers of EZ-Clip and Rope Hook comes the ultimate in outdoor protection, the Yuppie-Guard 5000 Supa Deluxe. This integrated system utilizes space age materials that offers protection from bugs, snafu-hounds, Lambone's falling rocks, and any other inconveniences found when venturing outside the city limits. Supplies are limited! Order yours today! http://www.collectorsarmory.com/suit_of_armor.htm

quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: I will inform you that making threats such as dropping rocks onto us from above is something I will take seriously. If in fact I have anything fall on us be prepared to face some court actions based on those statements. You got to be joking, not even Judge Judy would let that fly in her court. Who ya gonna sue if the weather goes sour? Steve Pool?

Matt, Don't listen to Dru, he has no idea how far modern technology has come in the outdoor industry. The Lentex Mosquito Repeller works magic against those damn bugs. Never had a problem with it. Since I can tell you are the type of customer who knows what essentials are needed in the outdoors, let me recommend another product by Lentex, Snaffle-be-gone. Yes Snaffle-be-gone is also a small electronic device that emitts high frequency sound, which of course you can't hear, that repells those varmits we all love to hate. For just three easy payments of $19.95... [This message has been edited by Yossarian (edited 07-24-2001).]

Sharpies are fine. No damage to rope. Cheap.

A pricey piece pops plummeting Pete as he pisses his pants. Lo and behold, his lower daisy catches him! "Alleluia!"(choir of angels singing) Whenever I found myself in pathetic Pete's predicament, I hand one hand on the lower daisy which absorbed some of the impact from the fall. However, if one was to fall straight on the daisy itself, would a factor two fall of this kind be a cause of concern? Allot of force is generated falling above an anchor on a static system. I've seen small screamers that are made to be placed where your daisy attaches to your harness. I have also considered clipping the daisy to the aider by the second or third loop. This way the bar stitching could rip and absorb some of the impact. Is the impact from falling directly on a daisy something to consider? Or has the prospect of portraying pathetic Pete paranoid me? [This message has been edited by Yossarian (edited 07-24-2001).]

Jman, "I don't really care that man landed on the moon." I think you are an exception. "How would you feel if the Americans (or, Russians) left metal junk on the moon after they had achieved their 'quest'? - you're never going there, right?" First of all, we did leave tons of shit on the moon. Second, I don't care...just as I don't care if there is a bolt protecting a blank wall 2000ft. in the air. Why should you care? Bolting should be limited not because of the environmental impact (virtually nil), but because it is more enjoyable to climb the rock in its natural state. Improving the quality of climbing is the greatest case against the addition of more bolts. I agree with the comparision between bolts and trails. They are fine in moderation. If you want to live a no-impact lifestyle, that's fine, but that doesn't mean I have too. I drive a car, landscape my yard, and clip bolts, so what?

Jman, Way to get the crowd going! You have been supporting your ideas well, but I would like to retort on your comments. "So what? If you didn't climb them what do care whether or not they were climbed?" I didn't land on the moon either, but it's still good to know we made it. If your not going to climb El Cap, what do you care if there are some pins under the Great Roof? "You mean our ability to conquer and hence destroy our environment? It takes no great skill nor ingenuity to drill a hole and plug it with a bolt." I don't believe climbers set out to conquer a mountain or cliff. It's an inanimate object. The engineering required to invent tools to solve the problems of a shear wall, that's ingeneous. The final pitch of the Nose went down in history because of how it was bolted, it took skill and determination. What gives you the right to say I can't rap off a sling or clip a bolt? It won't affect you because you wouldn't be on a route that didn't go 100% clean, no impact. Does environmental impact always take priority over safety and progress? How much does fixed gear really hurt the enviroment? Use chalk, ever left a jammed nut, or pulled off a handhold? If you climb you WILL impact the rock, even following the highest standards.

Jman, You have taken the topic of bolting and merged it with such issues as dumping toxic waste and the stupidity of corporate America. Bolts are used, like trails, to provide a form of recreation. We, as a society, have determined these forms of leisure activities are acceptable considering the small impacts they have on the world around us. I may enjoy climbing a sport route, others may enjoy riding horses, while still others may spend the weekend on a dirtbike. It seems you are not showing much respect for others by condemning activities which you happen not to participate in. I don't think 4X4's should be ripping it up Mt. Rainier, but I also respect the interests of others and think they should not be outlawed. You live in this greedy corporate world, driving your SUV, eating processed foods, and wearing bleached underwear all the while stating "I'm not going to change the world and I have no intention of it." Yet you point the finger at a group of people who you know very little about and, on average, show incredible respect for the earth. When you point your finger to blame someone, you still have three figures pointing back at you.

Christopher, If yo mama or old lady can't walk a few paces into the trees to do her business, den maybe she best be not hiking. We have to live togetha on the streets, er I mean trails. So show some respect to a brotha and don't piss were I'd be walkn'. You try dat agressive shit on me or my boyz I'll stick that gat of yours so far up your a$$ and pull da trigga until it goes CLICK.

There is a clear difference between manufacturing a route by chipping and placing a bolt for safety. Without bolts and pins, Most of the world's climbs would not have been climbed or would see only a handful of repeats. By increasing the margin of safety, climbers have been able to reach a level of performance that would not be possible using only clean protection. Bolts are (in a perfect world) placed to ascend or protect sections of rock where clean protection is unavailable. Weren't meant to climb it? Who are you to say. One of the most inspiring qualities of humans is our ability to adapt to harsh environments through skill and ingenuity. The first pins and bolts were ingeneous ways of overcomming what was thought to be impossible. I would recommend for you to climb routes which go all clean, no bolts, pins, or rap slings. This way you could climb in a fashion that suites your style. However, understand that fixed protection holds a significant chapter in the annuals of climbing history.

If I was coming off a long climb and was looking forward to an Earthquake burger (best post-climb meal!), I would have pushed my way through, perhaps even snapping a few pictured to teach 'em a lesson. If I was just coming back from a normal day in the mountains, I would have inquired about her looks before charging ahead.

"You should have left the bolts alone. If you don't like them don't clip them...the rock is the loser in the end." Kyle, I would like to say I would never clip bolts such as the ones placed on DDD, but on the sharp end I clip whatever I see, ethics be damned! Removing the bolts forces climbers to perform at the level of the climb. As long as the bolts were removed in a neat manner and the holes plugged with a mixture of epoxy/sand, the rock should look fine.

Don't waste your time scamming food. If you cook your meals you will save enough money if you buy all your food outside the valley. I've heard you can avoid paying for showers by using a nut tool to open the door, however, every time I have been there in the Spring the showers were free. You can vegabond camp if you wish all other the place, but I usually like to just pay the $5 a night and not worry about it. Don't drive around too much as gas is expensive. Enter the park at night to avoid paying the fee. Bringing a couple of ounces to Sunnyside will also recover some of your costs. When are you heading South? I will be there in September. Always looking for someone to climb with.

While rangers may tell a fib or two, the police officers in the town of Sultan are even more worthless. If anyone gets pulled over by Officier Moffit prepare to go up against numerous lies in court. Watch your speed in the shitty town of Sultan. Sultan police? Nothing more than a bunch of shady tax collectors.

Never seen the route in question, but if it is as described it should never have been bolted. In terms of the bolters, what reason do they have for comming forward? To listen to a bunch of ranting and critical comments? They made a mistake, all is well now. However, it seems like the choppers where driven by something else other than the notion of preserving the rock. All this talk about posting pictures of the chopping and continuous bragging is hard to listen to. Most of us agree the bolts should not have been placed, but how much praise do you need for chopping them?

A new survey in "Climbing" reveals that 50% of the climbing population is about one half.

When I was learning to climb I headed down to the spire with my brother using a short static line to toprope. Because the line wasn't long enough to reach the ground, you had to climb up a few feet and then clip into the rope. I fell just before the top and my brother didn't catch the fall. The knot in the end of the line locked into my brother's belay device. The result was my and my brother were both a few inches off the ground. The static fall on my homemade webbing harness hurt like hell and soon my brother and I are throwing punches at each other while suspended from the top of the spire (BATTLECAGE!). Eventually we ceased as we started to draw a crowd. Those were the good ol' days.