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Yossarian

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Everything posted by Yossarian

  1. Yeah, I know it's not that bad. But with three people we had two ropes anyway. I'm looking for an excuse not to walk down in my climbing shoes as well as spending a little more time on the rock.
  2. Outer Space TR: Went up on Sunday No other climbers Sunburn No porn on the ledge. Partner almost stepped on rattlesnake Goat is looking good, still shedding Anyway, I wanted to know the best way to rappel the wall as it would probably be more enjoyable than scrambling off the backside.
  3. My partner dropped his pack on Forbidden Peak. He later called the rangers to see if they found it during one of their training exercises. They claimed to have seen the pack on the glacier but didn't pick it up, even though they were able to identify all the gear in the pack including a watch and camera. Then the gypsy rangers slapped him with a $50 fine for not obtaining a parking permit. Worthless.
  4. For the biggest, most mouth watering burger this side of the Mississippi set your sights on Earthquakes. Over 1.5 pounds of heart attack inducing beef that meets a weeks worth of saturated fat requirements as well as providing lubrication to those climbing tendons.
  5. From what I've read off the 'net that Chongo feller has some good ideas. The only way I see to get the book, however, is straight from man himself. I was going to drop him a letter unless anyone else knows a better way to get the book.
  6. This page has some good tips. http://art1.candor.com/fpage/doc/climbs.htm The book "Big Walls" by Long also has a chapter on solo tricks.
  7. Comming from the south, take a right off the freeway at the Squamish Mcdonalds. Stay to the left and drive past the Smoke Bluffs parking lot. Take a right at the stop sign and drive down the dirt road. You'll see campgrounds along the river. At least that's how I remember it.
  8. Why not climb the mountain anyway? If you are willing to risk the objective dangers of avalanche and rockfall, wooden arrows or a good scalping shouldn't scare you off.
  9. Anyone know which mountain is used as the logo for Paramount Motion Pictures. It's the peak shown at the begining of almost every movie.. except Tri-star- I think they use a unicorn or something. Anyone know where I can find a unicorn?
  10. I've used the gigri on easier climbs. Just pull the rope through every once and awhile and your golden. I've taken a few falls and the device always held. I still tie in short, however, just to give piece of mind.
  11. The Climbers Guide to Squamish book gives little info about University Wall. If anyone has any route information or can direct me towards a good resource I would appreciate it. It looks as if it would be a good solo wall.
  12. Someone has to show support for the 'fly I've had mine for a couple of years and been very satisfied with its performance. Check the specs for heat times, I'm pretty sure it beat the Whisperlite. Used it up to 12,000 with no problems. It also has the most stable base of all the MSR stoves.
  13. Did those snapped bolts ever get replaced on Town Crier? How's the rest of the route?
  14. I have a set of the Robot cams as well as a set of their microcams. The design and manufacturing looks solid and they are strength-rated the same as simular products. Of course I've yet to take a whipper on them yet so for what it's worth...
  15. Yossarian

    Camp 4

    While you may have to fight the crowds in order to get a site during the summer, the camp is pretty open during the first part of spring. Rangers are less of a hassle as well. Rates have increased to $5 per person, however. ------------------
  16. I'm looking to do a basic big wall route (A2+, 5.10 or lower) around the middle of March. Can anyone recommend a route that can be done without a portaledge and using mostly clean placements? Where is the best place to go this time of year? Yosemite, Zion, Squamish?
  17. I ordered a set of stoppers from rockempire for around $25 to supplement my BD's. Haven't really measured the difference between sizes but the price was right.
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