joe_catellani

Strong work and excellent TR guys. You had WAY more snow on the route than we did in 1981. I will scan some slides and post eventually. Joberg and Torment were climbed the same weekend we went up Forbidden, although we didn't know about each other's climbs til weeks later.

the bivy/camping is much better at the rest area about 5km north. take the Coquihalla Lakes exit. Flush toilets, picnic tables, sort of quiet spots in the woods couple hundred yards from the highway.

my memory of descending Tower's gully is it is one of the worst in my 35 years the Cascades.

food for thought https://www.wildsnow.com/2012/backcountry-skier-code-ethics/

This tower could be called "Vegan" since it it just N of Vega Tower.

Jason great job on the TR. This is the most useful TR on the West Arete of Constance I have seen.

my schedule is wide open. primary interest is trad up to 5.9 send a pm if interested.

anyone have his contact info, including the man himself? please send me a pm. Joe

"how come you didn't go in via manning park?" It's the journey, not the destination. border "issues" might be another factor.

A good sized rattlesnake was on the trail down from the top of Castle Rock. Moved off with a little encouragement, but wasn't that visible in the dappled light and light brush along the trail.

I did this route a few years ago when the south entrance was open. used mtn bikes for an hour, then reasonable approach thru woods. the route itself was a disappointment. average quality at best. West ridge of N Twin a much better climb for less effort. My partner thought the same. I think there was some "1st ascent euphoria" involved in the comments in Red Fred.

Climb: Mt Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 6/21/2006 Trip Report: Climbed rte in 7.5hrs with Paul Cornett. had a good freeze. no SFOs (significant falling objects) observed. getting past ice cliff on east edge was cruise. crossing bergshrund to upper couloir was spicy snice. little bit o mixed in couloir. cornice easy. awesome alpine setting. descent: jumped Sherpa bergshurund altho could bypass on either side. Gear Notes: no pickets, no regrets 4 pins, more LAs & bugaboos wooda been better. more of smallest cams would have been nice 4 screws enuf Approach Notes: first 1/2 mile of mteers creek rte could use some work. don't need a permit if bivy above 5600', just day use pass for each day

FREE AVALANCHE CLINICS PUGET SOUND There will be a number of free avalanche awareness lectures. These informative clinics are a good introduction for novices. They also present an opportunity for those considering taking a complete course to see if our avalanche programs might be of interest in the future. (sign-up necessary at Marmot and Backpacker only). The clinics last about 1:40. DATES OFFERED 2004-2005: Nov 15, Second Ascent, 7:00pm/ Nov 16, Marmot (Bellevue), 7:00pm / Nov 17, Tukwila REI, 7:00pm / Nov 30, Tacoma REI/ Dec 2, Backpacker Supply(Tacoma), 7:00pm / Dec 9, Alderwood REI, 7:00pm (date changed from December 1st)/ Dec 14, Feathered Friends, 8:00pm/ Jan 6, University of Washington Climbing club (contact jjantz@u.washington.edu), 7:00pm/ Jan 12, Redmond REI, 7:00pm / Jan 13, Seattle REI, 7:00pm / Jan 27, Backpacker Supply(Tacoma), 7:00pm FREE LECTURES: "AVALANCHE TRAGEDIES IN CANADA 2002-2003" "Avalanche Tragedies in Canada 2002-2003" is a free Power Point presentation that parallels the new Level II avalanche course emphasizing "Persistent Snowpack Weakness" that has been created by Gary Brill. The focus of both of the new programs is not so much on detailing each accident but rather on analyzing common threads that run through the accidents. These programs utilize an historical look back at the highly unusual snowpack in Canada last winter as a vehicle for presentation of relevant materials and current thinking and theories on persistent snowpack weaknesses, a key factor in as many as 80% of recreational avalanche accidents. This presentation will be most effective for individuals who already have basic avalanche knowledge. This program lasts about 1:40. DATES OFFERED 2004-2005: Nov 29, Second Ascent, 7:00pm/Dec 7, Marmot (Bellevue-advanced sign-up recommended), 7:00pm/ Dec 16, Feathered Friends, 8:00pm www.geocities.com/garyabrill/avalanche.html

Climb: FREE AVALANCHE CLINICS SEATTLE AREA- Date of Climb: 11/15/2004 Trip Report: FREE AVALANCHE CLINICS PUGET SOUND There will be a number of free avalanche awareness lectures. These informative clinics are a good introduction for novices. They also present an opportunity for those considering taking a complete course to see if our avalanche programs might be of interest in the future. (sign-up necessary at Marmot and Backpacker only). The clinics last about 1:40. DATES OFFERED 2004-2005: Nov 15, Second Ascent, 7:00pm/ Nov 16, Marmot (Bellevue), 7:00pm / Nov 17, Tukwila REI, 7:00pm / Nov 30, Tacoma REI/ Dec 2, Backpacker Supply(Tacoma), 7:00pm / Dec 9, Alderwood REI, 7:00pm (date changed from December 1st)/ Dec 14, Feathered Friends, 8:00pm/ Jan 6, University of Washington Climbing club (contact jjantz@u.washington.edu), 7:00pm/ Jan 12, Redmond REI, 7:00pm / Jan 13, Seattle REI, 7:00pm / Jan 27, Backpacker Supply(Tacoma), 7:00pm FREE LECTURES: "AVALANCHE TRAGEDIES IN CANADA 2002-2003" "Avalanche Tragedies in Canada 2002-2003" is a free Power Point presentation that parallels the new Level II avalanche course emphasizing "Persistent Snowpack Weakness" that has been created by Gary Brill. The focus of both of the new programs is not so much on detailing each accident but rather on analyzing common threads that run through the accidents. These programs utilize an historical look back at the highly unusual snowpack in Canada last winter as a vehicle for presentation of relevant materials and current thinking and theories on persistent snowpack weaknesses, a key factor in as many as 80% of recreational avalanche accidents. This presentation will be most effective for individuals who already have basic avalanche knowledge. This program lasts about 1:40. DATES OFFERED 2004-2005: Nov 29, Second Ascent, 7:00pm/Dec 7, Marmot (Bellevue-advanced sign-up recommended), 7:00pm/ Dec 16, Feathered Friends, 8:00pm www.geocities.com/garyabrill/avalanche.html

anybody interested in ice bouldering on lower Coleman Glacier Sat. Aug 9th. lead and TR too ? send a PM if interested.

I was in leavenworst last week and 3 cars at the Snow Lakes TH had windows smashed and were ransacked on tuesday night 6-26. Later the FS "cops" came by and taped garbage bags over the windows to try and keep rain out. beware!

ok, one more try. you got to see the pic to appreciate the route <A href="http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-image.html--SiteID-179781.html"></A> http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-image.html--SiteID-179781.html

I suspect the reason those 3 registers haven't been removed is the NCNP rangers didn't climb those peaks. Mike Gauthier might not know anything about this as it is a North Cascades NP issue, not an issue elsewhere(ie Rainier).

one rope is enough. if you downclimb a fair amount only 2 raps necessary

pic link didn't work in original, another try

Building on the "Rangers Lie" thread, I've heard from reliable sources that it was (and still is?) NCNP policy to have climbing rangers remove (ie toss off) summit registers because they are "installations not in keeping with wilderness". I think the tradition of summit registers should be kept as it preceded creation of NCNP. Just as plane landing are allowed in Denali NP because they historically preceded creation of the park, so should the tradition of summit registers be allowed to continue. Is there anyone out there with a legal background that would like to pursue this, ie get a judge's order that the park can't destroy summit registers? It's kind of a little brother to book burning.

Mt Berge is NW of Buck Mt in the Chiwawa River area. On 6-23-93 Garth Ferber and I gained the crest of the east arete just west of the twin towers from the north. We climbed 17 mostly mid 5th class pitches near the crest. Probably many ways to go, the first third of our climb was usually half a rope length below the crest on the south, then generally on the crest or very close. To avoid a bivy we did not climb the entire arete-instead we traversed west on a ledge and climbed a snow gully to the summit. there might be another 4 pitches to complete the arete. 16 hrs RT from a camp at 5800' on Cleator's east ridge. IV 5.7 ? The approach is up Buck Creek trail about 5 miles,then the trail descends slightly for 100 yards to 4240' in timbered area. Cross Buck Creek and ascend the wooded east ridge of Mt Cleator initially on game trails on the north side then a good trail on the crest. At 5800' descend a little to the south and contour the basin. High Pass, west route on Mt berge, and Mt Cleator can be reached by continuing up the basin. I found the rock quality and the area's scenery to be good enough to come back a month later with Gordy Skoog and climb the east face. Because a schrund blocked access to the right slanting ramp across the face two 5.8 pitches on the wall to the right were climbed. The ramp consisted of 700' of clean slabs (class 3 to 5.0)with little opportunity for pro until directly below the summit. II 5.8 Include small pro including TCU's. The Berge affair continued into 1994 when Garth and I came back and climbed the twin towers, calling them Buson and Basho after the Zen poets. Each has one 70-80' pitch up to 5.8 from the notch between them, best reached from the south. bring small tcu's. I'd like to hear from anybody who repeats the Zen arete , particullarly if they finish the complete arete. PS you can bail to the south with only one rope. [This message has been edited by cascadeclimbers (edited 06-22-2001).]

I was there (in first of 5 parties) that was on the route on saturday. seemed like each party was doing it in 2 to 2 1/2 hrs. you can walk off the backside after doing one 50' rap off a tree, this makes a lot more sense than rapping down while other parties are coming up. its a good fun route.

here's an opportunity to give feedback on Denali climbing permits and fees. Mike Gauthier was a climbing ranger at Rainier (and I heard an ok guy) so your comments may actually accomplish something. III. DENALI RESCUE-COST STUDY --------------------------------------------------------------- A study now being completed by the National Park Service at Denali National Park in Alaska has not received much attention from climbers - but it should. The study could result in new and higher climbing fees and mandatory costs to individual climbers for rescues. The proposed changes would have a severe effect on the climbing experience and access to climbing areas at Denali. Last fall Congress passed a law requiring the Department of the Interior to study the "suitability and feasibility" of recovering the costs of high altitude rescues on Mount McKinley (Denali). The law demands a final report to Congress by August 2001. The study will examine whether climbers should be required to provide proof of medical insurance prior to being issued a climbing permit, and whether the current climbing fees at Denali should be raised. The Access Fund objected to the passage of this law, authored by Senator Frank Murkowski (R-AK). Murkowski has been trying to make climbers pay for the costs of their rescues since 1992, when a record thirteen climbers lost their lives on McKinley and the National Park Service spent $431,000 on rescues and body recoveries. In response to fatalities in 1992, the Park Service made several changes in climbing policy at Denali: the park began to charge climbers $150 to attempt Mounts McKinley and Foraker; climbers were required to register for a permit at least 60 days prior to their visit; and the park started an aggressive climber education program. These changes appear to have made a difference. Between 1991 and 1995, the average number of climber rescues per year at Denali was sixteen. Since 1995, the average dropped to about 11 major search and rescue missions per year, with an average of two climbing fatalities per year. In 2000, 13 major climber rescues cost the park $73,137. In February 2001, the Park Service initiated the rescue cost recovery study. The Access Fund responded by stating we would oppose any policy requiring climbers to pay for their rescue costs, unless it applied equally to all park visitors. The Access Fund does not suggest that the costs of rescuing climbers at Denali and elsewhere are insignificant or should be ignored. However, it is unfair to expect climbers to pay for rescues and not expect the same from hikers, swimmers, and people who feed wildlife. Rescues of these types of visitors cost the Park Service much more than what the agency spends on climber rescues. It is official Park Service policy to undertake, if possible, rescues of visitors in distress. The Access Fund proposes that if the agency is going to rescue any visitors in distress, the NPS should find alternatives to reduce rescue costs before singling out climber rescues. These methods could include: -Reduction or elimination of administrative (government) services; -Allowing visitors to sign a "no rescue" waiver instead of paying a fee; -Terminating the $250,000 annual contract for a special, high-altitude helicopter at Denali. Climbing program costs at Denali (which includes climber rescue costs) should be compared to the costs of supporting other types of recreational uses. The Access Fund will actively oppose the adoption of new fees, insurance requirements, and rescue cost recovery efforts for climbers until other non-discriminatory strategies have been tested and proven ineffective. To comment on the Denali rescue cost recovery study, write Denali National Park, Attn. Mike Gauthier, PO Box 588, Talkeetna, AK 99676, or email mailto:mike_gauthier@nps.gov. Also, check the Access Fund web site at http:www.accessfund.org or the Denali National Park Service site http://www.nps.gov/dena/ for updates on this issue and advice on how to contact Congress.

I've heard of people going up depot creek in april or may to ski, in fact it's listed in John Baldwin's ski guide to the Coast range as a trip. a potential problem is the road around Chilliwack Lake is often rough or trashed every winter by weather, you may not be able to drive it very far. check with BC provincial parks re: road status. if it's too warm you'll have a interesting problem with the waterfall!