daler

catbirdseat, of course, but the way matt describes it is not the same as you describe. Matt is talking about running the cable that is attached to the middle hole up through a caribiner at the snow level. the way matt describes it puts more overall force on the piece. dale

I think it would be better to clip directly to the caribiner and not run the cable through it. Running the cable will produce more stress and leverage on the piece. dale

something like this- I can get it to ya for not to much money- dale

Post deleted by daler

Matt, although i'm probably a little bias, I thought the fusion stuck in the ice better than the ergo and doesn't pivot off the rock when matching on the upper grip. I found on steep routes and less than juggy holds the ergo would pop more often when i matched. I need more mileage on the fusion to know foresure. So far my tricked out vipers with cut hammer and matching grip is the best for all around mixed terrain because it still works great on the ice sections. dale

the quark and the ergo have completly different swings!

Matt, You will have to check out the new BD fusion. adjustable grip height for different size hands and a sweet swing. Then you can still use your BD picks. If you come out to CO you can probably take them for a test ride at Vail. They will be ready for retail this fall. dale

-6 at my house in CO this morning. Come to CO. its fucking cold right now. dale

If it works out that you are not low enough to belay directly off the achor just belay off the belay loop but still use it in autoblock mode. works great and acts just like an atc type belay. Actually I'm surprised this has not been mentioned yet! dale

Are you saying a sport climber can't be an alpine climber?

catbirdseat, The differance is a big one. In the alpine one usually just sits there and holds the end of the rope and thinks about how the alpine demons are going to get you. a fall is almost always bad and alot of the time you can't see your partner and all you can hear is " !@#$%^&%$##" as the leader is scared shitless. A sport belay is way more attentive and needs to be dynamic most of the time as not to slap the leader. Slapping the leader is when the belay is to tight and they pendulum over the bolt or pro quickly and hit the rock very hard. Easy to prevent with a little practice. As always every situation is differnent and sometime a tight belay is appropiate ie.. when the leader may hit a ledge or something. then the "slap" is the better of the two choices. dale

look at that- three posts at the same time. and this reply gets me to 100 posts. does this change my spray statis? dale

tim- you the man!!!!

If you have to ask the question you should do a little more researh in past posts.

Just because a partner is a good alpine partner doesn't mean I would let them belay me in the gym. I've seen more bad falls at "sport areas, gyms" by seasoned alpine hardpeople them by the newbie gym leader crew, mostly because of alpine belays at the crag which is not appropiate. Spray Away!!! dale

Dan, There is a good chance I'll be guiding in the ruth this spring. i might have spare time before or after. Althought i have already climbed the nettle/quirk twice (not to the summit) and Ham and Eggs. But maybe would be up for something on the rooster comb or 11,300. I would prefer one of the ice routes around the corner from the SW ridge though. cheers, dale

Dru, I've climbed alot in the Can. Rockies and recently alot in the colorado rockies. the routes are not softer, if anything alot of them are harder. And as far as the routes go in the PNW they are as stiff as any of the routes in Canada. And i'm not sure if you are flashing M9 or not. but there are very few who are warming up on them. M9 is still damm hard!!! Go climb Gorilla Bar at Baker and let me know if you think it is soft M8. The kind fellow who put up the routes by the tooth climbs alot in the can. rockies and is very capable of knowing the grades. And yes he has sent M9 leashless in Canada. And to those worried about the bolts, alot of times by trying to access the tops of routes to top rope them you do alot more damage to the terrain. Look at all the trails atop the climbs at marble canyon. dale

Its not from this year. I was there and half of those people did not even compete this year. dale

Jon, The smear was fat(relative to most years) but has subliminated away at the bottom. We climbed it in lat Oct. and had to do the m7 rock traverse in to get onto the ice. Also this time of year there is alot of snow at the base of the diamond. When I say it was fat. I had to climb 1 inch ice for 30 feet above and way to the right of a reasonble blade. I guess it only comes in about every 5 years or so. We got lucky. I climbed secret probation it early November and it was a tad spicy then but should be fatter as Vail has lots of water flowing so the ice is good. I protected the little pillar with two stubbies equalized. Other stuff and Vail like the seventh tenacle and the little thang are in good shape as well. cheers, dale

I have not had this problem. sounds like you might have your leashes adjusted to short overall. the leash should be adjusted so that during your swing no tension is on it. then once its in the ice you can relax your grip and let the leash do the work. this will put your pinky near the bottom of the spike. explain more if that doesn't help! dale

what size is your foot. i have a pair of the altitude plus in a 10.5/ 11. They are a great boot and very warm for that type of boot. the only reason I'm selling them is i'm working with sportiva. I will let them go at a great price, 100 bucks if the fit is right and the owner will let them out to play. dale

The Designator is in fat shape. Depending on the line you take it is grade 4+ or 5- with the big artichokes at the bottom. Keep in mind that the vail area can be climbed out in a few days so plan your trip knowing that. The fang is very wet and should be getting fatter quickly. The overnight temps usualy go to the single digits and then its in the 20's during the day. Also try and plan to be there on week days. Are any of you folks going to be at the ouray ice fest this weekend? cheers dale

I think most people have figured out that you have a strong feeling against all BD gear. Would you explain in great detail why?

Just go leashless and your problem is solved!!! for the mountains use the lockdown!!!