daler

Looking for a partner for weds- 7/2. anybody game? dale

No, they were super bomb!!! Had to be pulled!!

It's damm hard to thread those pins while hanging on the fingerlock below them. Have you tried? If they are not preslung they are useless while leading. So they should be removed or have slings on them!!! dale

Does that mean you would prefer if i don't put the slings on? I dont' mind not having them there but thought is was a nice community service so folks could clip em if they are sketching! dale

Does anyone know why and who took out the upper two pins on Ironhorse at Index. Not really a problem as the gear is still Ok but just wondering. Also why did they not take out the lower pins as there is also gear near these. And who the fuck keeps cutting the equalized webbing I put on the lower pins?? You can't fit a carabiner through them as they are way bent. Dale

Howdy folks, For Sale: Metolius Haul Bag. I think its the quarter dome, around 4700 cubic inches. Great condition- never used on a wall! $85 Womens Medium Gortex Pants- Never used. $50 Tecnica Altitude Plus Boots- 10.5 $45 La sportiva Kaukulators- size 41 and 37- $25 each Cloudveil Gortex like jacket(can't remember the name of the fabric) good condition- mens large, redish orange- $75 Cloudveil Serendipity Jacket(shoeller)mens large, blue $50 All this stuff will arrive in Seattle on 6/22 and will reside at feathered friends. Cash to dale if you are interested. If you want something pulled aside send me a message at dremsberg@hotmail.com thanks, dale

Kiwi, I work for Cascade Alpine Guides and we run 4 1/2 day trips on the Emmons Glacier, they include all the food and cooking, and a summit bid. As much instruction as the weather allows and way to much fun. I think there are a few spots left for the summer. I believe the price is around 1150$$ with all group gear provided. Cascadealpine.com Dale Remsberg

In response to the list of climbs you list a popular guided climbs. Most of the climbs you listed are off limits to comercial guiding. I think only the climbs on Castle, givlers and maybe dragontail are OK. And I'm fairly certain only 1 or 2 companies can guide the N. ridge of Stuart. And as far as impact goes I think most profesional guides do a better job than the general public. I spend much of my time while working trying to educate the public on how to take care of the wilderness. dale

I surprised nobody has addressed light transmission. pretty much all sunglasses are 100% uv protective but its the % of light transmitted that will get you. For recreational use- I.E. not guiding 8-10% transmission should be fine for the cascades. This will not do you if you are going to Alaska or are going to be spending long trips on the glaciers in WA. I guide alot so I use a pair that has 6 % transmission, but I still carry a pair of smiths for the appoach and as a backup pair. Mattp- Just because you have not had any short term affects from not wearing side shields does not mean you have not been doing damage. Sure would suck to go blind at 50. My 13 cents dale

Yo wankers, I heading to spain in the fall to clip some bolts on southern spain limestone. Do any of you have experience with Iberia air? Forrest have you flown with them and if not what is your beta on cheap air to Spain. I think you have the inside scoop!! thanks in advance, dale

catbirdseat, More important than the device is the rope, and how you place your gear. The least amount of rope drag you can create the smaller the impact force, because it allows the rope to do its job. The idea of reducing impact force via device slippage is foolish to me. To much going on during a fall to icrease or decrease slippage. Also not fighting the fall(move into the catch not away from it) will be your best solution. people argue this fact in trad climbing, I feel its more important in trad vrs. sport because the gear is way more suspect(obviously) than bolts. My vote is almost always for the Gri Gri!!!! dale

Very True. I have done Cruel Shoes as the start many times and would have to agree. Although it should only add a couple of hours. I think Cruel Shoes is one of the best climbs at Squamish!!! dale

I sure bob's time is good. I've done it in 3 1/2 car to to car. Just start early so your behind nobody and climbing in the shade. dale

I think Iron Horse is a testpiece 11+. I've climbed quite a few 12- trad routes and I still think Iron horse is stout! Also full Japanese Gardens is no softy for the grade! Most of my trad climbing as of recent has been at Eldo and I think Index has a solid letter grade even on it. dale

As a ski!! Almost impossible. The trip would be a climbing adventure in its own right. Although a Grizzly did make it up there a few years back! dale

depends on the nut placement. I have done this way mor e often then a single biner to a bolt.

Well if he did what you described I would not call him a hotshot. Maybe a hothead. That is definately not something you should teach a student. The only time you should use a single biner is if it is your last resort then you should use a locker. Or to keep you off a ledge close to the belay, but really how many places is a few inches going to help you. dale

Luna, How do you the guide was a guide. like dru said anybody can call themselves a guide. Did you check his amga cards? Did you ask who he works for? Did you ask if he had insurance?

Anybody can call themselves a doctor as well, but would you have anybody cut into you with out checking their background? The AMGA is an international reconized organization!

Steve House bolted a new line in between TRL and LC and it is a nice alternative to the first pitch of TRL. You still need a couple of pieces down low but then its bolted all the way. It goes at about 10+ and is super fun climbing. At the first anchor you can traverse right about 10 feet to the start of the second pitch of TRL. A much better start!! dale

I'm sorry but there is not overhanging terrain if you take 1 of probably 5 natural lines up the gully in question. The crux step is very similiar to the first pitch of guiness gully in Field, Often thin but never harder than WI 4+. You are always on your feet. If there is no ice on that pitch you could easily skirt it to the left! The ice(if its there is just the easiest passage). The Cornice on the other hand can add some spice!! We did not have to tunnel. but from the looks of the pics we exited further to the left. There were cornices there when we climbed it but there is a less odvious exit to the left that we took. dale

I Started a new post in response to PMS's post on Spindrift about the grades. I feel that the North face of Big Four is not a grade 5 setting, the approach is all flat on a packed road. And there is a trail almost always to the base. The face could easily be retreated from without leaving much gear. In Selected Climbs in the Cascades the grade range is described as grade 1 the easiest to grade 5 the most committing and difficult. Liberty Ridge is given grade 5 which in my book is a way more committing climb, although tecnically much easier. The northeast buttress of Slesse is given grade 5 and is tecnically harder than spindrift. In Alaska a route like Ham and Eggs is given an Alaska Grade 4-, probably grade 5 in the cascades. Spindrift as far a committment goes is easier than all of these. I'm not trying to inflame the spindrift post, but rather starting a conversation on grades in general. dale

Just fill up a pig with about 180lbs of rock and use that. don't pound! there is no need at Index. Sure its a little extra work but it will make you stronger. I've used this to belay me partners for photo ops and it works great. dale

thats the nature of the beast! Now that the TRs are virtual you have to expect spray. Its not the good old days when you just shared the info with a few friends over a guiness. Or is it? Why do you write it on the web? Why say anything? I liked your TR, but that doesn't mean i can't ask questions! Don't hesitate to write but keep in mind everthing is relative. when you say that you were on route for 8 hours and consider that fast I would consider that very slow. I thought we were doing good with 4 hours on route but sean and andreas beat that by a solid hour. Does it matter as long as you have fun? No! peace, dale

Michael, i was not attacking you. Just trying to keep the grades where they need to be. I think you guys kicked ass. as far as the epic goes, there are two types of committed alpine climbers, those that have had a epic and those that will have one. good job on getting out. Did you guys have a compass? did you scope the descent from the belays on the climb? Jason as far a grade goes- I'm talking committment grade not tecnical grade in reference to the grade 10. Maybe the WI grade was 5 but from the picture it looks like scary grade 4(it looks the same as when I climbed it). This debate is the same as the one going on in the Canadian Rockies, does WI 6x mean its WI 7. No its just means it you need to be bold on dangerous WI 6. The face should be grade 3+ as the approach is short and the face is easy to bail at any point due to the abundant trees to rap from. Its all good! dale