daler

climbed at Marble the 5th and 6th. Ice is still healthy with the high on Saturday of 33F and 36f on Sunday. Climbed IcBc skipping the 2nd pitch because of water spout. The 3rd pitch was thick with fun climbing. Also climbed the pillar to the right in fine conditions.I led the deeping wall, although i wouldn't reccomend it as I did not get good gear until almost the halfway ledge. The ice was only a couple inches thick for 40 feet or so, with a couple of rock moves to start. The Dihedral is still forming.No deductible is the best i've seen in awhile with only 25 feet of poor gear in the middle. dale

mine sold!!! dale

stood under it a few weeks ago and it still had a long way to go. probably 25 meters till touch down!! Rest of the route is in the best shape I have seen. dale

kitty kawk doesn't see much sun. are you sure you were looking at the right climb. It takes about 1 hour to get to the base. dale

I have a feathered friends XL volant with 800 fill. the shell is red dryloft with black shoulders. Used 8 days. new is would cost about 320+ tax. its yours for 200. dale dremsberg@hotmail.com

mtnhigh, I use the sabertoothes almost all the time for water ice. They have become my favorite for most ice conditions ( yes including vertical terrain )They are of course bias but next time you see gadd or house climb take notice that there is a good chance they will be wearing sabertooths. And most likely they will be climbing way harding then the rest of us.I use them through grade 6 ice and love em!!! dale PS I use them for guiding in the summers too!! [ 12-27-2001: Message edited by: daler ]

Drove 2 hours(ballard) climbed pam dome, tabasco kidd and played around on other stuff. totally worth it! 61 pitches of ice this season and counting. If you look at Pan Dome and say its not worth it, either open up the eyes, look left and right or stay on the ski slopes. dale [ 12-24-2001: Message edited by: daler ]

billy, I'll be up there for 10 days starting this saturday. I'll post a report on the yoho area on Sunday night. hope that helps. dale

I've used the Android off and on for 4 seasons now. Since the first prototype models were releashed.I do believe they are super nice for steep crag ice but most of the time I still go back to the Lock down leash. It is actually faster to get in and out of. People complain about having to place the tool low to loop the lock down loop over the toop of the tool. Solution- just place the tool over your other tool or your elbow and its no problem. This also gives you quick access to the tool to clear ice when you have chosen a bad screw placement. I think the lockdown gives you almost as much support as the android and if your getting that pumped you should rely more on training then the leash. Go back to lower angle ice for awhile!!I have not dropped a tool "yet" (knock on wood) with either method. Dale R.

Mountain tools in CA just did mine. They did a great job!! dale

Freak, last time I climbed the roof the blade was gone. but there is plenty of good gear, just a few more feet down than the where the blade was. A clean 10 footer if you fall pulling the roof. dale

I nice linkup is lower Iron Horse with upper Sagitarius through the roof. I would put it at soft index 12a. And if thats not hard enough go through the left hand roof on Sagitarius. Or do lower Iron Horse then upper Amandala. dale

lambone, good info for the most part. You are correct it in that is is always best to equalize all the pro points then anchor into the power point with a knot. but using only your rope to attach to the power point takes you right back to being only attached to one item. the rope!! Yes the rope won't break but being clipped into the anchor with only the tight rope makes into quite vunerable to falling rock and ice. always good to use another independent item (daisy chain) clip it tight to your best piece or into the power point. Keeping the motto of not having all your eggs in one basket. Yes I know the rope is the only thing your attached to when you are actually climbing, but this should be the only time. dale

I have stayed with the reyes family four times and have only had good times and I have experienced several accounts of them helping other folks that were left high and dry. I think all of the companies that work the area are good but something can be said for having a camp guard and the pickup truck always being on time. Francisco might even take you to his secret rock climbing area. Also don't forget to go to the pyramid of the sun, and the museum of anthropology is a must see. adios, dale remsberg

kevin, In the other north ridge thread texplorer talks about the Gendarme being a fred beckey 5.9- 5.10 for the rest of us. I think if it were at the crag it would be tossed around at 5.8++ maybe 5.9. Also the two short pitches are easily linked into one. Also in the other threads people talk about needing a number 4 camalot. Even if the fixed piece was gone ( its not as of 9-15 ) there is good gear to the sides of the offwidth and on the lower ridge the offwidth sections could be avoided with the much better 5.8 twin cracks to the left. dale

Walter, We did use the Ingalls approach. Mostly because of the less technical and prior knowledge of the Cascadian hell descent. Damm that Gendarme pitch is good!!! I don't think it is 5.10 as other have suggested though. dale

jblakley We did the whole ridge on Sat! If you are doing the whole ridge there are bivies about 5 pitches up on the lower ridge, then the notch and after that you would want to be on top. We did it car to car in 18:45 and I highly recommend going light and just doing it in a day. You can get to the base of the lower ridge without crampons. We had Ice axes to cross a 100 ft wide ice patch. Dale Remsberg [This message has been edited by daler (edited 09-16-2001).]

Caveman, ( where do you get your fucking info) Aaron had no part in the bolting of DDD. As far as I know the route has never been led from the ground up without bolts without rehersal. Even hardman Dave toproped it first. A good friend of mine works with Stoddard in Boulder and even the first ascentionists used much rehersal before leading it. Is that bold??? Have you led it in its current or past state. Its still quite sporty. Before you chop anything you should look around and consider the local ethics. Many local testpieces have a few bolts on them where gear could be placed. maybe you should use your time in a more positive manner and replace all the funky anchors on Castle Rock. Dale Remsberg

FOR SALE- Trango Plus size 44(10.5-11). Used less than 5 days! Only 100 bucks. They don't fit my feet. dremsberg@hotmail.com

The point of changing out the head is not because the hammer or adze will break. It is possible to ding the threads ( where you attach the pick ). Also it is usually better to climb water ice with two hammers ( no need to have the weapon staring you in the face all the time) And usually better to have an adze in the mountains( chopping ledges, bollards, opening cans of tunafish ) Dale

My vote is for the Rage. The bend comes at the head not the grip( if you get the bent shrikes ) which allows for better pluging once the pinky guard is shaved off. Also with the Alaska pick the rage actually has a better angle on less than vertical terrain. And the rage has a modular head so if you ding the threads or want to change out the adze or hammer you don't need a whole new tool. Dale

Billy, I attempted the route a couple of years ago but backed off because of snow conditions. I still have the topos that I got from Steve House, I trust his the most as he has done it 3 times-but I also have two other versions. Send me a E-mail dremsberg@hotmail. Also I have good shots of the ridge. Dale

Shriek was great. Better position than Night and Gale and little harder. 1st pitch grade 3- 2nd grade 4- 3rd grade 5. A must do in Lillooet. Dale

The other guy is Bruce Kay not Lyle Knight!!

I found a face shield to the Grivel helmet (i think its the Grivel) on sunday. It was in the gully about halfway up to the climb. Send me a message if its yours. Dale