daler

Where is the huge unclimbed Ice?? Dale

Ade, First of all I wouldn't declare it my route. Just a fun variation to the Dihedral. But your list is correct. Although that last two years the dihedral and Wait for Spring have formed as one large flow. Also the corner to left of the deeping wall( 10 feet to the left ) sometimes forms with ice - also a fun "variation" Dale [This message has been edited by daler (edited 01-29-2001).]

I hate sqeeze plays but thought folks would want to know!! i climbed the thin smear to the left of the dihedral a couple of years ago. Nothing new of course as i'm sure it had been climbed before. But I did place a solid pin under the roof that is still in place. With the freeze thaw make sure you check it before clipping! A fun alternate at the now normaly crowded area. Dale

512dude, I think you missed my point. Brad M thanks for the clarification. My point is that Ice Climbing is becoming super popular ( much to my dismay, but hey, can't be selfish ) There are still lots of folks that can't judge the Grade of a climb from 10 feet away and until they can a false report may get somebody hurt. I know that everybody needs to be responsible for themselves, but lets keep the reports just to the facts. I've looked up at a climb many times and thought no problem but 50 feet into it I wished I was at the pub drinking a cold one. Dale

brad m Did you climb Drury?? Or did you determine the grade of it from 3000' and a 1/2 mile below?? Dale

I guess it depends on what type of route your on. Sure, an ice axe and alpine hammer is great for alot of moderate routes, but if the route is mostly ice two tools is alot nicer.It takes a long time to chop a bollard or ledge without an adze. For waterice clearing ice is easy just with the picks. The adze is only a leathal weapon looking you in the eyeball on waterice. It's also nice to be able to pound pins with either hand on steeper routes where you don't have the luxury of standing on a nice ledge and switching hands. Dale

They both swing about the same. But one thing to consider is you can't change out the hammer or adze on the shrike. And I asume since you want these for Alpine climbing you want an adze. But when it comes to Waterfall climbing you're going to want to get rid of the adze and use two hammers. I would definately get the prophets. Are you finding Carbon fiber tools online or the old style peanut grips. BD hasn't made either of them for a while now. If you find a pair buy-em quick!!!! Dale

Don't count out the Cobras!! I have old school straight shaft prophets and Cobras and have actually had better luck in the alpine zone with alaska picks on the Cobras. No difference in how well the shaft plunges in snow situations. But as far as Waterice goes the cobra will be far superior. I climbed a season on the Axars when they first came out and they are a good tool. But if you ever break a pick in the field it will take 10 times as long to change as BD tool. Plus you have to carry tools to tighten or change out Charlet tools. The BD picks you can just use the other tool. Dale

The Cobra and the Quark are the same weight. FYI- The machine that makes the Quark is broken and spare parts and tools won't be ready to go until late spring. That was the last info from Petzl. dale

The Cobra is .7 oz. heavier than the Shrike. But remember because of the Carbon fiber all the weight is in the head. But the others are right. You'll pay a ton for not a huge benefit on pure Waterice. Dale

The Cobras are pricey but if you invest in a great tool to start with they will last you 10 years. Plus all BD picks are compatible but Charlet has just started with a new pick design for the Quark. No plans in the near future to stop making picks for the pulsar or Axar but you never know!!! A year from now you will have long forgotten about the 80 bucks. Happy shopping Dale

Climbed Pandome falls today. Led up right center and used only 11 and 13 cm screws. Hopefully it will cool down or it will soon fall. Dale

Climbed Pandome falls today(sunday the 7th). It was still there and some new Ice had formed. I led up right center. Max is correct in the fact that if it doesn't get cold soon it could very well fall off. Take shorty screws!! Dale [This message has been edited by daler (edited 01-07-2001).]

I have flown with Paul at TAT the last 3 years!! I've never had a bad experience. in fact he brought us pizza and beer once. Also he was willing to fly us into the Base of the West face of MT. Huntington when none of the other services would because of deep snow. Sure we got a little stuck but nothing a little shoveling wouldn't fix. Dale

Climbed The tube- 20 feet of hooking then plasic to the top. Loose Lady- Climbed all but the last 50 feet. still super wet at the top. We also climbed a thin smear to the left of loose lady. 1-2 inches thick the entire pitch. WI 4R. New years eve we climbed Capricorn. Solid Grade 5 with poor pro because of heavy chandeliering. The first approach pitch not in. we skirted it to the right. Also climbed Oregon Jack. Great climb. Still a little hollow at the top. Cheers, Dale

Climbed Synchronicity on the 21st. The first pitch was a little wet but the rest were thick and plastic. The Ice crossing at the base of the gully was formed and we used it on the way out!! About 15 inches of snow had fallen a couple days before and had already slid out of the gully. Dale