512dude

Trip: Darrington - Center Stage 5.11a Date: 7/5/2007 Trip Report: Just did Roan Wall today and there are a few things I would add to the previous reports: 1) two ropes are required to rap Roan Wall (we ended up rapping off single bolts using tie-offs, if you are up there cut off these green colored tie offs as we already pulled our rope thru them) 2) Roan is in the sun all day so bring plenty of H20 and sunscreen or choose an over cast day 3) make sure you get the final watercourse correct otherwise you will do the bushwack from hell 4) the 2nd pitch had no gear so it ends up 5.4X; we went straight up the middle of the face on this pitch 5) this route is well bolted but many hangers are loose and need to be tightened including some at the belays 6) our grading was as follows: .7/.4X/.10b/.9/.8/.9/.11a/.10c/.9/.10a ...and thanks to the FA'tionist for not over bolting this route into submission. Route Info Attached Cheers! Gear Notes: 14 QD's and a set of cams from up to a #2 Camelot including a few Micros. Approach Notes: The approach is described in the attached file but it can be ~3hrs to get in there. Don't screw up the final approach to the wall and better yet, bring some loppers to trim out slide Alder and make a reasonable path up the final drainage. 3746-RoanWall-CenterStage5.11.pdf

OK - but this doesn't work in the Route Report/Trip Report forum area.

You rock SNOBOY!

Is there anyway for me to upload and post a .pdf file to share with the climbing community? Thx

What are all you guys working for those two months or what???

Check Pmail box

Check your pmail box.

I don't really care if someone decides to put up a route with bolts or not but could some thought go into it? At least try and establish every 2 sets of anchors within 200' of each other so that double rope rappels get one down from anchor to anchor. In addition if drilled on rappel one must make sure that they take into account the weight of the drill and associated gear on rope stretch. I see many routes where the belays are arbitrarily positioned and make for inefficient descents.

My friend KC and I ran up this and Prime Rib last weekend. Sisyphus is definitely the better of the two routes and pitches 1&2 and 10&11 can be linked so it is more like a 9 pitch route. However the grade is a bit generous and I think Sisyphus is more like a one move wonder vs. anything sustained in nature so don't be shy if you find yourself wanting to do it and think it might be difficult. Here are some aids for locating the route: Approximate Route - note the lone pine tree Lone pine tree below route aids in finding the line KC leading the 3rd pitch ~5.10- which has an easy traverse to the first bolt but watch for rotten rock in the gully. Moi on the crux pitch about to make that 1 move KC coming up the last pitch Topo is linked here for those who want it: Sisyphus Topo Cheers!

More greatness comes from the first ascentionist and his pals...got a call from Eric Hirst that they found my camera on the same day as they hiked in for whatever reason. Thanks guys and I owe you all a beer if not two! :brew: CHEERS!

Washington Pass? I can leave when you can...

Quiz: 1) A Chinook Indian legend has a woman turned to stone by Coyote the medicine man. What is the name of the rock formation? 2)The Yakima chief known as Meow-wah has become what mountain? Does anyone want to go climb either one? After about a week of no responses here are the answers: A1) Kloochman Rock A2) Goose Egg Mountain

I emailed Bruce with an offer to help and replace anchors etc. but never heard back from him. Many bolts are badly placed in terms of the quality of rock surrounding the bolt as well as placement in terms of protection. There is a bolt that is placed on a hollow flake which made me wonder who is drilling these things??

Just did Roan Wall today and there are a few things I would add to the above reports: 1) two ropes are required to rap Roan Wall (we ended up rapping off single bolts using tie-offs, if you are up there cut off these green colored tie offs as we already pulled our rope thru them) 2) Roan is in the sun all day so bring plenty of H20 and sunscreen or choose an over cast day 3) make sure you get the final watercourse correct otherwise you will do the bushwack from hell 4) the 2nd pitch had no gear so it ends up 5.4X; we went straight up the middle of the face on this pitch 5) this route is well bolted but many hangers are loose and need to be tightened including some at the belays 6) our grading was as follows: .7/.4X/.10b/.9/.8/.9/.11a/.10c/.9/.10b ...and thanks to the FA'tionist for not over bolting this route into submission. Cheers! If anyone needs a topo with approach info etc. you can find at: Roan Wall - Center Stage Topo

I am "free" for the next 2 months - everyday I'm open and am looking for an experienced partner that wants to rock and alpine climb. I have climbed 15+ years and all sorts of things - rock, alpine, mountains, ice, glacier, etc. Want to do stuff up to 5.10/.11 - mostly alpine. Also trail running is my recovery days. Would like to meet a climbing partner with a similar goals and enough experience who is also a considerate and thoughtful enough to road trip with. I can do as short as 3 days at a time and up to 3-4 weeks at a time. I don't mind leading it all as long as someone still knows how in case trouble strikes. I have a VW Westy which functions as a rolling hotel. We'd have to share costs for gas but let's discuss itinerary(ies). My desire is to climb multi-pitch routes such as: Bugaboos - many Mt Assinibone (canada) Castle Rock (Banff) Marble Canyon Squamish Slesse Mtn. Bear Mtn. South Early Winter Spire North Early Winter Spire Chianti Spire Forbbiden Peak - S. Face Colchuck Balanced Rock Snow Creek Wall - Hyperspace & Iconoclast Sawtooths - Idaho Pmail me at climb@miraiusa.com and we can talk about plans.

Yo mate - I want to go to do something on Hood and Adams Glacier route. Off all the time and was thinking next week. Seattle

Trip: Leavenworth, WA - Dog Dome Date: 6/16/2007 Trip Report: Went in to Dog Dome on Sunday and spoke with the land owner for permission to cross his land. He was a friendly guy and had no issue. Please do the same if you are going and keep the peace with land owners and climbers. The Dome's slab routes are fully mossed in except Canine Capers which is partially mossed in but we climbed it anyhow. I liked the sporty bolt placements which are more indicative of how a route would be put up on lead - although the SMC button head spinner as a first bolt inspires little confidence. FYI - unfortunately unless someone get's there with a scrub brush the routes are shite. See the photo gearing up and all the moss behind on the route. Gear Notes: QD's Approach Notes: Whack your way thru the brush from Hook Creek Boulder heading down stream along the road and thru the private land owner's gates. If he is there do a courtesy call and drop him a bottle of something if you can. Then the road peters out and you can follow the faint trail to the rock dome and past that to the little creek that drains into the Icicle. Cross the creek and arrive at the slab are on the west side of Dog Dome.

Summary of route: a 17 pitch approach to one good pitch.

Where is this? WA or OR state?

I am sorry but I will not be posting any larger images of my girlfriend climbing in her bikini. Find yer own!

That winter stuff sure leaves some funny marks like a hammer on the hangers...

Just climbed this route on Sat and have the following observations/comments/questions regarding the "creation" of this route. I don't want to discuss whether or not this route should have been bolted in the first place as there are many discussions on that but I want to understand and discuss why it was constructed the way it was. Q1: Why were the lower pitches bolted so heavily? The first 5 pitches of this route follow some non-descript line up what is basically a dry waterfall for most of the year. The climbing is in the <5.5 range and is fairly straight forward but there seems to be a bolt every 4 to 10 feet! Why was it necessary to make a ladder up these pitches? I think this has aggravated some traditionalists to the point where some of the hangers have been hammered over in protest. I am not an advocate of unsafe climbing but the pattern of bolting seems ridiculous given the angle of the rock, the fall potential and the difficulty of climbing. Q2: Why are there so few bolts from pitch 13 to pitch 17? So whatever logic was used on the bolting for pitch 1-5 all went to hell on pitches 13 thru 17. Again the cimbing is all <5.5 and easy going but now there are huge stretches, 400+ feet, of shitty loose rock and very little to no pro. Although we unroped and solo'd this section for our own safety, I don't see how this is to be useful as part of a bolted 'sport climb'? The risk is greater with the poor rock quality that one might fall and if 1/2 of the bolts from pitches 1-5 were used on these upper pitches there would be minimized risk on the route for injury. Accidents impact more than the climbing party; costs of rescues and the time and effort involved are additional impacts and climbing related fatalities have their own broad reaching affects. A bolt every 50' to prevent ground fall would make the a huge difference. In addition to climbing up was the task of getting back down. We had to down climb these pitches until discovering the anchors somewhere around the 13th or 14th pitch. If we had to do this in the rain on wet rock or with an injured climber this would have increased the issues significantly. Did I miss something on this route or have other parties had similar experiences? I'll enjoy your comments and feedback. Thx

Climbed it on Sat and it is not chopped but some hangers have been hammered over on pitch 3 or 4.

Looking to do the traverse on this week. Leave early, climb and back in Seattle in the aft. Route is 5.8 and asthetic. climber@miraiusa.com

Anyone know what route this is? Up at Index yesterday and as we moved past the Quarry area we came upon this nice bolted line (first hanger missing). It is located right of the Quarry Wall and left of Orc Tower. There is a couple of nice pine trees right in front of the route.