512dude

Jens posted this: "Don't quote me on this but I think it has gone in under 60 minutes from base to top (not counting approach or descent)." ...good thing you quoted him though

Sorry to break the bad news but here are our times for today... Car to Car 6:11 Base to Base 5:11 Base to Summit 3:20 Summit to Base 1:51 Let the games begin!

Read a posting for a speed climb on Infinite Bliss back on July 28th and decided to see what we could do. I hooked up with my mate Michael Cartwright earlier today and we made the following times (insert chest beating sounds here): Car to Car 6:11 Base to Base 5:11 Base to Summit 3:20 Summit to Base 1:51 Rip it up!

Far North, I'd be up to meet with you at some point. I am looking at the Bugs but still have routes I want to run in the pass. Recent posts of WA Pass climbing in the North Cascades section if you want to check it out. PM me and we can chat a bit. c

Trip: Cedar Creek Wall - ? Date: 8/1/2007 Trip Report: I was wanting a few days of back country camping coupled with some climbing so I looked up a few options for remote climbing areas that offered longer routes and came across the Cedar Creek Wall. Never having heard of anyone else climbing in the area I thought it would prove interesting and adventurous to go see what the wall offered. I hooked up with Kevin for round two and this time a 3 day excursion involving a longer approach, camping and climbing. After a bit of discussion we opted to approach via Twisp and the Twisp River Road which brought us to the North Creek trail head ~3680'. From the trail head we took TR413 for ~3.25 miles (~1.5 hours) to the intersection with Cedar Creek Trail #476, ~5200'. From here the trail climbed up to Abernathy Pass (~6400') in a short 0.5 mile which took 45 minutes at a good clip. Then we continued another mile or so down the other side until we reached Cedar Creek ~4900' and good camping in another 45 minutes. The next morning we departed camp around 7:00am and followed a faint trail that paralleled Cedar Creek on its' north side (I was surprised at how cool the temperatures were, about 39F at night after seeing highs of 91F in the day time). The wall itself is in the sun in the morning but gets shade for most of the remainder of the day due to its' NE exposure. The line we took was thru a weakness on the left of the slabs and eventually trended over to the larger crack/chimney system on the right via a large treed ledge and some traversing. What we found in the crack/chimney system was very little gear and some loose and rotting sections of rock - typical kitty litter granite decomposition. Most of the pitches had marginal gear and long runouts. Neither one of us thought the route was that stellar and agreed that we wouldn't recommend it very highly. At the end of the day we meandered our way back to camp. The thoughts of freeze dried food wasn't that appetizing but to our surprise we discovered that we had neighbours. From the looks of their camp they were either some burly dudes or they got packed in by horses. These guys had huge tents, cabinets, booze, coolers, lanterns, tables, chairs, you name it! So we went over and introduced ourselves asking them if they had brought extra steak for us - jokingly! They ended up being very friendly fishermen and had many questions for us about the climbing. Before long we ended up with cold drinks and were eating steak, salad and rice for dinner. On the way out we encountered 4 younger hunters - bear season opened Aug 1st - who had spent the night camping at Abernathy pass. Looking like a group of militia wannabes in full fatigues I was disgusted to see that they decided to defecate and leave their paper remains on the trail and not even clean-up. When we questioned them about it they claimed that they didn't notice it and it must have been one of their buddies. Further down the trail we came upon the shit-head himself who had once again purged his bowels right on the trail and left his paper behind. I'm sure he respects his prey as much as the wilderness he hunts in. 100' out and do you see any gear? Cold rewards at the end of a long day...maybe that is why those packs were so heavy?!? Approach Notes: Recommended: Park at Cedar Creek/Cedar Falls Trail Head off of SR20. Hike ~2000' and 7.5 miles to Cedar Creek camping area. From the camp area follow a trail paralleling Cedar Creek on the N side until below the wall. Head up thru the forest and boulders to the base at ~5300' in ~30 minutes

I have a copy of the Preliminary Guide book signed by the author himself! He's been dang busy bolting and cleaning and if you know how much work it takes to do what he does then give him a break on the release schedule. I'm sure that I could share a few pages Cheers, C

OK - I did that and from what I can surmise the Nesakwatch Rd is open to the Slesse trail head and now Mt. Rexford trail head if you have a high clearance vehicle. My call to the Chilliwack Forest Service gave me the info that Slesse Creek Road was closed at the 0.0km point. That would add 7 miles for coming out. http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/dck/Engineering/fsroadclosures.htm Anyone know otherwise? Thanks, Chris

Jan, did you guys climb Slesse? It sounds like you can make it to the Mt.Slesse trail head at 5.9km if it is open to Mt.Rexford trail head ~8km. Did I interpret your post correctly? What about the descent and hike out on Slesse Creek Road - heard that was closed at 0 mile post? Cheers, C

Thanks guys - appreciate it!

Thanks Chuck!

Trip: WA Pass - N Early Winter Spire - West Face Date: 7/25/2007 Trip Report: After my earlier excursion on the NW Corner I really had a craving for that fine looking line called the West Face. I have to say that this route didn't disappoint and delivered for me the finest crack climbing in the pass up on the upper pitches. For this route I hooked up with Kane from CascadeClimbers. We headed out a little after 9am and started up the winding Blue Lake trail reaching the turn off from the main trail in about 1.5 miles with ~700 vertical feet being hiked. 30 more minutes and 1K more vertical feet brought us to the base of the route. The first pitch is straight forward and is a shared start with the NW Corner. It can be stretched out to get one to the mini amphitheatre below pitch 2. P2 is a well protected short 5.8. P3 starts up some easy cracks until one reaches a small ledge and the flake. We didn't bring anything larger than a #3 Camalot so the flake had to be climbed unprotected. It was committing to lay back the thing knowing it would be tricky to step back out of it but all went well and the flakes above have slings to clip from a good stance. I scoped the traverse and saw the bolt, an old 1/4" time bomb. I thought this bolt had been replaced!?! So I got some gear in under the lip and a nut to the left of the traverse and started out. It was only as I was part way thru that I noticed the shiny new bolt on the upper lip. DUH! The traverse is airy and wonderful with great friction until I was able to blindly lay back around the corner. A nice reach to a high right foot around the corner allowed me to work a nice Camalot #1 below an old fixed pin. Then I moved up and left to the base of the thin crack. Kane arrived at the belay and we arranged gear and got ready for my anticipated lead of the crux. I prepared the small gear and struck off on the good entry to the thin crack. Overall this section took small nuts very well and offered excellent finger jamming. Part way up is a small horizontal tipper edge that made for a great place to work gear in. My next goal was to get my foot up on that tipper edge so I laid back the crack and smeared hard. Another good stance here with my left foot on the tipper edge let me work a Metolious #1 Cam into the crack. I pushed on and up with the crack getting tighter until I could see a good flake edge. As I reached up for it my feet blew and I was off for some flight time. At this point I realized that I climbed too high and that after I placed the cam I should have traversed left to the second crack system. Back on and in a few moves I was in the left crack system and ready to build the next belay after that short crux pitch. The next pitch is the best on the route. It starts with a few gaston opposition moves in a crack to a small overlap that takes a .75 Camalot well and then up into another finger crack. The upper potion starts as an intimidating looking thin crack and then with awesome finger jams it just keeps getting better. I wished that this pitch could have just gone on and on and it is the money pitch on the route! Eventually it peeters out and one has to traverse right to a larger crack and a belay if your partner mistakens his 50m rope for a 60m! A longer rope would have had us complete the pitch to the top. West Face Route, 6 Pitches 5.11a Kane almost done with P2 Heading into the crux crack View from belay at base of P6 The amazing upper crack pitch Traversing over from the end of P6 Easy cracks that lead out to the low 5th and summit Gear Notes: Rack to 3" with extra .5,.75,1 Camalots 60m 12 draws + two 4' Approach Notes: See Nelson's Select Cascades Guide

We rapped from the top of P4. If you go and finish it please share your exploration of this old "classic". Cheers C

Trip: WA Pass - S. Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress Date: 7/24/2007 Trip Report: After a botched attempt with Chris Kouba a week earlier, I returned with a vengeance and my best arsenal: a good weather forecast and my South African buddy Michael Cartwright. Michael met me at Blue Lake Trail Head Tuesday morning ~8:30am with breakfast in hand - nice. We talked about a route and decided we'd take a run at this even thou I'd be climbing it again in a few days. We parked his car at Blue Lake and drove my van to the hairpin with the strategy of coming down the South Arete and taking the pleasant Blue Lake trail back to his car. Sorting gear and filling water he introduced me to his little blue alpine pack, describing it as Spider Pig and singing the Spider Pig jingle. A little explanation may be required: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=12995490 Spider Pig would end up being our "light weight" climbing companion for the day and would get a free ride up the route on our backs. Mostly it carried 2 pairs of shoes, a jacket, 3 litres of water, a few bars and 2 Egg McMuffins. The climbing route is about 10 pitches long, consists of crack and face climbing and back when Fred Becky first put this up it took them 2.5 days to ascend the line. The 2 bolt ladders can now be freed at 5.11a and it was our intention to do just that. Departure time was a little late at 9:30am but we are the masters of the casual pace. Michael immediately set pace and with the approach gully steepening I could feel it. Temps were just right and so we made good time ~1hr. to the base of the route. After soloing up a bit of the easier lower section we roped up and I led off on the second pitch which went fast and easy and got us to the 3" 5.9 crack. Michael handed off Spider Pig and launched into some easy flakes which led to a feisty layback jamming crack and a under clinging traverse under a roof. As I climbed this pitch I often cursed at Spider Pig because he was fat and uncomfortable. Happy to drop Spider Pig off, I picked up the continuance of that crack for the next pitch which also included a balancy step left under a small roof. A quick move of the belay and we were at the base of the 1st bolt ladder. Michael decided to free the bolt ladder and made fast time with a pull around the crest to the next belay. I, on the other hand, had to ferry Spider Pig across this section. I freed most of it until the crest where Spider Pig distracted me and caused me to fall. I almost pitched Spider Pig off had it not been for the water and shoes that Spider Pig so valuably carried. Once again free of Spider Pig I could climb as intended and pitch 5 started off by traversing right two bolts and getting into a beautiful 5.10 Canadian finger crack. The short crack leads up to a face and a traverse right brings you to a well camouflaged bolt and some slabby faces moves to a good ledge. One more money pitch of 11a bolt ladder begins up and left from the belay. This pitch has a couple of funky mantles and ends below much easier low fifth class terrain. A quick run up easy lines brought us to the summit. At this point we ripped into Spider Pig and emptied its guts while we searched through its internals for something nutritious. After a quick lunch we made our walk down the South Arete and eventually to the trail. Our car to summit time was 5 hours and the descent down to Blue Lake Trail Head from the summit to us ~2 hours. South Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress,10 Pitches 5.11a Finishing the approach Looking up from the base Starting P3 - 5.9 Freeing bolt ladder #1 Around the crest 10eh! finger crack starting P6 Spider Pig getting it exposure following P6 Looking down from P7 Gear Notes: 10 slings 1 set of nuts BD 4-13 1,2,3,4 Met Cams .5,.75,1,1,2,3 BD Cams 1 x 60m rope Approach Notes: Park at hair pin and head up gully to the base. See Select Climbs in Cascades, Nelson

I am looking for a high res photo of the south east face of Snow Creek Wall. That is the end that Orbit and Mary Jane can be found. Anyone have a good shot they'd care to share? Thanks in advance!

Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Galaxy - A Gardener's Dream Date: 7/29/2007 Trip Report: [font:Microsoft Sans Serif]Craig and I went to try some other route on Snow Creek Wall besides Orbit, Outer Space, Iconoclast or Hyperspace as those seem most popular. We decided to give Galaxy (FA 1966) a run since it goes at .8/.9 for about 9 or so odd pitches. The guidebook doesn't say much more than pro to 3" and wandering up the gully to the left of Iconoclast. With a later start we didn't end up finishing the route but I am curious if any others have been on this thing?? We ended up doing a bunch of bush bashing P1: Start up what best figures as the easier entry to the gully system 5.6 and pass slings atop of the first set of blocks. Move up and right thru bushes to find gear and then step further right on good face moves to continue up until reaching the 2nd set of slings 20' higher. P2: Continue up the corner/crack/gulley system 5.7, to a two pin rap/belay station. (We climbed past this and enjoyed building our own belay about 30ft. below the tree and at the bottom of a left trending rotten crack that lulls one out on the chossy face and towards a stew of slings and a small dying shrub-ask me how I know!) P3: From the 2 pin belay continue up the corner/crack with fine stemming and jamming, 5.8+, until 30ft. below the tree. Move up and right and get good gear in cracks on right. Traverse back left across a thin ledge and a blank face (no protection) and into a rotten layback crack reaching the tree from the right. P4: Continue up from the tree in the ramp and crack system leading up to another bush and another rotten corner. 15 feet up this corner reaches another lesge and belay point. At this point we decided to bail since we spent too much time getting lost and gardening the route. Kramer's hand drawn topo of the wall is somewhat misleading and we ended up trying to follow his line and getting off route. The third pitch is great but overall the climb would be much better if it would see more traffic. Good gear but way too much greenery on the route that we had to bash thru or tear out. The cracks were also very dirty and required much cleaning for us to place gear and proceed. It felt more like landscaping then climbing. We later discovered that the slings on the chossy face and dying shrub are useful for bailing from the route. A single 60m doesn't go from the tree to the 2 pin rap below so one must use the intermediate station. I'd like to go back and finish the line but from below, the route finding for the next 4-5 pitches looks just as wonder filled as some of the earlier stuff. Anyone else been on this route? Has anyone else done any of the other routes at Snow Creek Wall and can they recommend any of them either than those I listed? What about Mary Jane Dhdrl?[/font] Approx line looking up from the base P2 looking mossy but protectable Into the great stemming and 5.8+ corner The traverse across the thin ledge and unprotected face Looking down P4 and at the tree ledge Gear Notes: small + med hexes full set of nuts 4-13 BD 1,2,3,4 Met Cams .5,.75,1,2,3 BD Cams 12 slings include 2x4' bail webbing Approach Notes: Follow approach for Snow Creek Wall.

Want to know the latest on Slesse and road. ANyone have some beta to share? Thanks

I am looking for a partner for Tues 24th and/or Wed 25th this week. Want to do 1) Clean Break on Juno Tower 2) West Face on NEW spire Option for Lexington Twr.

Dana, if you want to go to WA Pass I am looking for a Tues/Wed partner. Chris

E Face of Lexington has a fairly new piece of wood (2x4) with a sling around it wedged in the off width and also has 2 new bolts in the chimmney. I hear that you don't need to bring a four as it won't work but a 5 just makes it.

Cat, can you provide your source? Where did you get this info and who did what testing? Thx,

If there was G-spotr can you link us to the thread? Thx PS. This link has a nice pictoral discussion... Anchor Analysis

I read this article at the ASCA's website and was wondering what you guys think and what you typically use? Anyone seen any empirical data on the issue? _____________________________________________________ " The Sliding X " Many climbers use a "sliding X" to equalize two pieces - ususally beginner climbers with bolt anchors. You should NEVER use this except in two specialized cases (see below). While the sliding X does equalize the pieces, it assumes that neither could break, since if one does break, there is severe extension in the system - enough that it would likely cause the carabiners to break. Since it assumes neither piece would break, it's a stupid system - if neither would break, there's no need for equalization. If one might break, then there is WAY too much extension. This is why many call it the "death X." Instead, use one sling off of each bolt or piece. You can tie one shorter to approximately equalize the pieces if needed. The two cases where the sliding X is used: equalizing tenuous pieces in a larger anchor - for instance, two poor nuts in a large natural pro anchor. The nuts are equalized, then the sliding X is equalized with other pieces through a cordelette, webolette, or other non-extending method. equalizing two very tenuous pieces in extreme aid - for instance, a hook and a bashie on A4 terrain.

Here is a nice shot of the NEW Spire routes and the corner that looks much better from afar.

What: In the winter of 2007 two local PNW climbers left for South Africa to get a taste of the famed and highly acclaimed rock climbing in Waterval Boven. Said to be some of the best climbing on the planet and kept a local secret, it was time to check this out for real. What these guys didn't know is that they would get involved with making climbing a part of a social-economic solution to address local issues such as unemployment, crime and issues of inequality. Together in discussions with local climbers Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Glenn Harrison and local land owners a plan was hatched and a non-profit was established to provide funding for: (a) training and employing locals in support of outdoor recreation activities (b) procuring access to local lands for trail building/maintenance and crag development/maintenance © facility improvements for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts (d) promotion and education of outdoor activities To help support the non-profit's goals, I am selling guidebooks to the area on behalf of Roc'n Rope (www.rocrope.com) and its' principle Gustav Janse van Rensburg. At the same time Glenn Harrison has attempted the 2007 Freedom Challenge, a 2300km mountain bike ride across South Africa to help raise more funds for the project (http://www.rocrope.com/mtbike.html) You too can help us and get a gift in return. Make a $25 donation and as a gift you will receive the guide book "THE RESTAURANT AT THE END OF THE UNIVERSE CRAGS". The guide book is in color and describes over 500 sport and trad climbs. It is complete with color photos, overview maps, route descriptions, details about traveling to and around South Africa, places to eat and stay, shops, services and contains a brief history of the area as well. I have included sample photos from the book as well. Where: Waterval Boven, Mpumalanga Province, South Africa When: September - April (southern hemisphere reverse seasons) Why: Climb some of the best rock this planet has to offer with awesome alternate activities including bouldering, white water rafting, mountain biking, trail running, caving, hiking and quick access to Kruger Wildlife Reserve, Swaziland and Mozambique. Now there are about 800+ routes all of high quality on solid quartzite rock including the 5 star Snap Dragon and the 5.14 Jabberwocky. Please contact me at climb@miraiusa.com if you are interested in helping out. Thanks! WHO'S YOUR DADDY - 5.10a (not kidding!) LOTTER'S DESIRE - 5.12 I considered where I should post this but none of the other forum topics seemed more appropriate so my apologies if this is in the wrong forum.

hey this ain't no dating service xxx