Marko

That comic is an all-time classic!

Thanks for the thorough, if depressing, report. It's rainging down here by the way...

1500' freezing level late Sat. and Sun. though. Should be great for the mighty White Chuck Mtn. If we can ski up to it in all this bottomless stuff, that is.

Talked to a local shop yesterday: The guy said the gate is closed on the Silverton side (a few miles from Big 4) and there's a "road closed" sign at the Darrington end. He said you could drive around the sign no problem, but he didn't know how far up you could get. That's the latest...

I'm thinking more like Chevy Cat.

Anyone know how for you can drive SE from Darrington on the Mtn Loop right now? (Ranger station is closed for the next few days!) Thanks

1. Moonflower Buttress 2. Moonflower Buttress 3. Moonflower Buttress 4. Moonflower Buttress 5. Moonflower Buttress 6. Moonflower Buttress 7. Moonflower Buttress 8. Moonflower Buttress 9. Moonflower Buttress 10. Moonflower Buttress Sorry, I'm starting to get obsessed again. Mark

So does anyone know how Ms. Mortenson's Makalu trip went?

Ade, Oh yeah, I forgot to mention another bit of wire to wrap around the fuel bottle and hang it also. The whole thing tilts a bit until you put a pot full of snow on the stove. It's great, the tent gets nice and toasty and you get to dry gear!

titsmack (interesting..) I've taken an old cookpot and cut holes in the sides near the bottom for the fuel line and for air flow, then more holes (smaller) near the top to attach thin wire to hang the pot. Place the stove inside the pot and attach the fuel line and stand back. It's actually too heavy and kind of a pain in the ass. The old 1/8" thick plywood by 8" or so diameter with 3 small squares of blue foam glued to the bottom works great and weighs squat. I almost always cook inside the bivy tent these days. (Getting old & soft I suppose...) Have a blast! Mark [This message has been edited by Marko (edited 06-11-2001).]

Paul, Yup, it's a great route! The view from the top of Alberta's N Face is puckering. We did it early/mid September '95 or '96 a week after the first fall snows. Great alpine ice, cold, and no rockfall during the climb. We brought one bag and a double bivy sack, bivied 15 minutes from the route, and did the carry over thing. The climbing is by no means extreme so the packs were no big deal. I think forrest_m is right about contouring around the peak. There's some wild terrain. We planned on descending the SE (I think it was) route but a huge cornice was overhanging it so we opted for the normal route (South ridge?). We got down around the lower ice chutes in the dark and ended up bivying. Should have kept descending to the meadows that night, because the next morning we were treated to the famous Rockies rock pummelling on the way down. I can't recommend descending any of the southern routes with the sun hitting them! On the other hand, you could spend most of the day climbing the route and then most of the night rapping it. Light packs and no rockfall. Maybe also use waders for the wicked-ass cold Sunwapta crossing both ways. Starting to sound pretty good except for leaving rappel crap all over the route. Either way, have a blast! Mark

Anyone want to head up to the E side of Cutthroat tomorrow? Scope it on Sunday and climb on Monday... Mark

They have the word 'aermet" stamped on them and they're hell to sharpen with a file. Hey, I'll trade you some wonderful ol' Snargs! What a deal, ay. -M

Jedi, Do you mean the descent off of Liberty CAP? If so, from the Cap head E along a ridge then S down to the saddle toward the main crater (all gentle slopes). From the saddle traverse SE (left) until you can descend the Emmons Glacier route. Hopefully you won't have to gain any extra altitude to avoid cracks. In a whiteout it would be a lonely, desolate place and not much fun! You might want to descend Liberty Ridge if it's too crappy. Enjoy!

Repeated bad luck with Dave Page (and his elves), and very good results from Valley Cobbler. $.01

No, contact me! Those things are better than gold.

Down bibs are REI, about 12 years old, used on one trip. No holes, rips, duct tape, or patches. Very light ripstop Leaktex. Mark

Light Fangs great shape - $50 or? Like new goretex down bibs, full side zips - $80 Mark 253-631-7794

Looking for partner(s) for Synchrotron and/or?? My car runs and has studded tires and lots of room! Cheers, Mark 253-631-7794 (Kent)

Here are a couple of shameless plugs: The 2 best air taxi services up there are McKinley Air-- http://www.alaska.net/~mckair/ and TAT-- http://www.gorp.com/flytat/ Keli and LeAnne will do right by you, and Paul will fly you anywhere that's humanly possible. Mark

Hey, excellent! I'll be at the upper Alpental lot at 6:30 or so. I've got a small rack and a 60m half rope. If we don't hook up, I'll just get on something anyway so don't worry about making it if you can't. Mark

Anybody want to go give the E face of the Tooth a whack tomorrow (Sun Dec. 10)? My partner has to work and bailed on me!! Mark

Anybody want to go give the E face of the Tooth a whack tomorrow (Sun Dec. 10)? My partner has to work and bailed on me!! Mark