David_Parker

Absolutely not. You're too anal. There's no cheating or rules (maybe guidelines) in poetry. Just shut up and write your own instead of worrying about mine. I certainly don't like all the poetry I read either! Chuck,shove your rules up your ass think about climbing leave Haiku to others

I bet you can make it into the N couloir and it will be connected most or all of the way. Don't judge things by that photo. Go check it out for yourself.

Water falling from The sky will soon be freezing Sharpen your crampons!

I know about NEICE. There's even photos of me on it! I also have climbed with Al Hospers in Canada and will definitely hook up with him if he's available. I'd like to know more about the Maine climbs. PM me any beta. Funny thing is, I found CC.com looking for a partner for NE in 2000!

I will be in Portland, Maine from Dec 21 to Jan 1 and will be in North Conway/Jackson either right before or right after X-mas (maybe both!) to climb ice. I am experienced! Anyone from the NW happen to be going there? Otherwise, I'm looking for locals to hook up with. I'd also like to go up one or more of the "alpine" ice climbs on Mt. Washington. PM me for details and resume.

It always amazes me how many different opinions on what type of layers are best, yet I constantly see people wearing too MANY layers of high tech stuff thinking it should manage moisture. Fact is, if you wear too many, nothing will work! Personally, I like to wear as little as possible and keep moving. If I have to stop (belay), I have a warm jacket to put on temporarily. My theory is you should be freezing your ass off when you first start out! The Cascades are tricky business because of the moisture, but common sense is your best protection. One question I do have....it seems the new stuff has moved from pit zips to the slash pocket opening for ventilation. I think the theory is the pit zips don't really stay open. I don't know if this is really an improvement for me? What's your take?

Dood, where have you been? EVERYONE is going leashless now!! Leashes are aid.

You should have run up the N. Face of Burgandy instead! Always have a plan B!

Matt. I think rope up showed that most of us are actually nice people. Myra and her friend showed up and promptly told me they were really nervous about coming because they were somewhat newbies and after reading this website were intimidated by most. I think I did a pretty good job of convincing her that many are not who they seem (sad) and much nicer in person. Then there are those who pretty much are the same on the board and in person; some nice, some idiots. But a web site will always attract some to become their alter-ego. I suppose that is normal in a way as it IS a fun place to go. So while some confuse ego with alter-ego, the dissing will always continue, as will the fact some will be intimidated by it. Taken in context by someone who first signs on and reads half this shit to formulate an opinion on what this board is about, I fear a certain amount of decent climbers or newbies go away...permanantly. I commend those who don't fear the spray and post a TR anyway. I mean fuck, we gather at pub-club or rope-up, act civil and talk about what we did last weekend amongst other non-climbing topics just like on this board. We don't attack each other in person in those venues though. So anyone reading this, just know that we are not all assholes like we go out of our way to make ourselves appear! And what climber doesn't have an ego anyway? It's a sport and we feel good when we do well. The only score is your own personal sense of accomplishment and sometimes we like to publish the score. Watusi Rodeo Princess Mt. (my first 1st ascent) Rope gun at Kids Rope-up

My camera must have gotten drunk 'cause all the photos around the fire Sat night were blurry. Here's some climbing ones though! What's on your camera?

Do you find that often you aren't actually afraid while the event is happening, but afraid after it's over and you realize what you just survived? Huge avalanche on the Fang in Provo Canyon while partner was 1/2 way up first pitch. Fortunately it was verticle enough that most of it shot over our heads, but the heavier chunks of slab and ice pummled us. I thought for sure he would be swept off the climb, but after about what seemed like a minute, he was still attached to the ice. Our gear at my feet; packs, tools, etc were blown 100 yards down the slope and I found a glove perched 10 feet up in a tree. Had we not been "late" that morning, we would have been in the low angle gulley between the upper and lower pitch where the avalanche scoured up the walls about 20 feet. If we had been there I wouldn't be telling you this. We finished the route figuring it was "safe now." While conscious of the possibility of avalanches on ice climbs, it hadn't snowed for over a week in Utah. But it had been windy the night before and some massive windslab must have formed and then cut loose thousands of feet above. The drainage was a major funnel. Learned a lot that day! A number of climbers have died on that climb, fortunately I escaped that day.

So what would be worse, getting mauled by a bear or being mauled by a prison inmate.....ouch!

Thanks Ray for that nice butt shot. It is obvious I'm rumaging around for my ak47 to take out those 2 bears. Don't you have photo shop you terd! lol. Anyway, I know better than to mess with bears, but cougars are another story... http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/cougar/attacks.html

and mary lou, I will be dissapointed if you don't make it!

Lambone, for WATER ice you should have filed the pick to a more appropriate configuration vs. selling it. But for the cascades, the tool is perfect.

That's the baby!! This is my second tool for most Cascade climbs. Unless I expect more than a pitch of hard ice, this goes with me because it is lightweight and can pound a pin if necessary. My first tool is an old 57.5 cm (mutant) blue Chouinard X-15 with replaceable classic pick. If I need two real ice tools, then I use the BD BRS x-15 STRAIGHT shaft with alaska picks. Personally I don't get the obsession with bent shafts for the cascade alpine.

Without meaning to be too much of an asshole for generalizing, I find too many American Woman want their cake and eat it too. They become a feminist as easily as they become an environmentalist, yet they don't really live the paradigm. This is true for many housewives: they want equality and still refuse to be employed, mow the lawn, paint the house and do other "man" chores. The biggest problem with being a feminist and sex is that most think extraordinary (kinky) sex is "dirty." They also condemn pornography and all who enjoy it. What is worse is many probably don't really think that way, but don't admit it. A recent survey of men and woman revealed that something like 20% of married men admited to having an affair and 10% of woman. (these #'s may not be accurate, it is the difference between genders I'm referring to). But given the absolute quarantee of annonimity in taking the survey, the woman's % rose to 18%. They lie to us, but worse lie to themselves. I appreciate woman who can talk honestly, candidly and openly about their sexual feelings. I also appreciate woman who don't chastise men for doing the same instead of feigning being insulted or shocked because it's "PC". Fuck PC, fuck mediocrity, fuck lieing! Eschew the dominant paradigm! When I look at a woman, I can decide in .06 seconds whether I would want to have sex with her. Is that shallow? Perhaps. But I think men have a much easier time than American women seperating love or at least some form of "attachment" from sex. I had some pretty refreshing conversations this summer with a european woman who was born an American. She confirmed most of what I have said. She too finds American woman have a very unique attitude towards sex. Dryad, you brought up this subject, what do you have to say?????

I'd rather FINISH the route and then walk off!

I'm in process of making a "best of" CD from the photos Ray, Matt and I took on our Coast Range/ Mt Monarch/Mt Princess trip this summer. Just need to get Matt's photos though!! (hint, hint) Would there be any interest in seeing those?

I have this little Grivel tool that rocks as a second tool. It will bang in a piton and weighs a lot less than an alpine hammer and is way more versatile. I searched Grivel on google but couldn't find it. It would the tool in my left hand below. I bought it in Banff for my kid, but I "borrow" it all the time!

Matt, for a non-father, you sure are a kid friendly guy. I like it when non-parents make my kid feel welcome. You do have a point, OC could go camping in the icicle and if he had his wife hang with the kid at night in a seperate campground, he could certainly join us. My kid actually said he had a great time at the spring ski-in even though he was the only kid. Funny thing was, he said he even liked Kurt!

OC, I wouldn't really call this one kid friendly. There will probably be some drinkin' some smokin' some sex some fightin' some climbin' some hangover some misc. some etc. The kids rope up was a few weeks ago and if there are some parents who were there or not there that want us to do it again, we can arrange that. I was definitely planning on making it an annual or bi annual event. It was a great success!

Dave, that trail is not abandoned. You were well on your way to Perfect Pass and climbing Challanger....just another few days!

I too climbed in and out of a Kayak this weekend....3rd annual trip to Second Beach out of La Push with my son. Arrived just before sundown and we frantically loaded the boat and paddled out of the Marina as the sun set. As we paddled across First Beach I was amazed at how huge the swells were far out from the beach. Some were almost breaking which was a little freaky. We pushed on, but as we approached the various sea stacks guarding second beach, there were just too many big waves breaking quite far out from the beach. It wasn't safe to attempt a landing so we turned around and went back to the Marina. We ended up setting up camp on first beach and Saturday was bluebird and we enjoyed the surfers rippping it up on some pretty big waves. We went for an afternoon paddle around James island and some other un-named sea stacks, launching and landing in the surf, but it was getting mellower and was no big deal at the north end of the beach. Sunday was all foggy so we hiked down to second beach. Surprisingly, the huge expanse of beach where we usually camp was completely devoid of driftwood! Bare, nada, not even a stick for a fire. Good thing we didn't make it. I'm still baffled as to where all the realy huge logs went. I mean winter storms bring the stuff in, but I've never heard of them cleaning the beach completely. We're talking HUGE logs burried in the sand. I know because I was there the 2 years previous. Wierd!

Excellent posts rbw & forrest, I agree, 6 weeks is a little short to buy a car. When I went back to the Dolomites, we rented a car. A little 3 cylander Fiat that got about 40 mpg. Driving in the mountains is a SPORT! The rental car still got us off the beaten path. There are thousands of homes throughout Europe where people rent rooms in their houses. Most are not walking distance from train stations or listed in books. Just look for little signs that say "rooms" in respective language. Another tip is try not to see too many counties in one trip or it will just be a big blur and seem like you spent too much time figuring out travel and sleeping accomodations. 6 weeks is about perfect for 2 countries Max. Italy can't be beat for being diverse and France is nice too. I can't comment on Eastern countries because they were all behind the iron curtain when I was in them. Prague is beautiful though. Also, if you are concerned about being instantly recognized as an American, sew a Canadian flag on you backpack and say eh a lot! You'll be more quickly connected without prejudice.