Smoker

peek!

It was taken from the ridge line just below the final summit step. We are above and to the east of the descent gully.

This was taken from high on Redoubt at sunrise you can see em both pretty good Yeah thats Bear Mtn. front and center

HammerDrill Roto Hammer Notice the differance?

So if yer talking low angle rock and good stances a gas powered rotor hammer is the ticket. As far as sharpening carbide sds bits I wouldn't recommend it, the dust is toxic and can cause health problems. Buy a new bit cheapy! If not gas then battery powered is the way to go, min 18 volts and 1/4-3/8" is about right for 18v rotor hammer. Probably get about 20-30 1/4" holes 3" deep I'm guessing. fewer in 3/8" Hammer drills suck unless your drilling into ceramic tile.

I'll be around the 'cicle on Friday. I'll keep an eye out fer yer pups and say

what's a little rain? I'll be sendin' on Friday while the rest of you are still pack'n up!

Here it is Bug

I for one might enjoy those shots. It's not every day you get to build one of those.

Ha! I finally figured it out!! (posting a pic that is) I got to lead all 6 pitches of Orbit with a newby on Sat!!

depends how clean your rope is. i replace as soon as i get two fairly pronounced grooves. when i can run my fingers over and feel it pretty well. that is when i get kinda iffyon em. Ya depends on how clean your rope is. When I can see/feel a groove it becomes suspect and gets tossed

I have dedicated draws as well and always clip the same biner to hanger. It's always a good idea to inspect your biners for those grove marks as once in a while ya end up clipping slings to extend. I like to use emery cloth instead of a file since it conforms nice to the radius and doesn't load up your file. A good bur will shred soft goods. That being said, last year I bailed off a route in a down pour. The rope picked up lots of grit in the rain and acted like 80 grit sand paper on my rap biner. It put a rope sized groove into the biner.

He's done my shoes 3 times and I'll take em back for a 4th when they need it. Cheap and fast Ramuta

Thanks for the info on the 2 rts between SR and TS Matt. I have been on Bushy Galore, it is as advertised The start was bitchen hard for 5.7 (it was wet though) and then it continued with lots of needles higher...I think we did about 4 pitches before it blanked out into a sea of granite...no gear or bolts too be seen...ran into SEF that day. What happened to Steve?

I was up to camp Schurman 2 weeks ago. I wouldn't recomend traveling the route without crampons, rope and axe. I am not familiar with Mt Ruth, but if it puts you up to Camp Curtis, then it is possible to continue up the exposed rock ridge right up into Schurman but to get into camp you'll have to descend some pretty loose rock above the hut. Some folks that didn't like the shape of the Emmons left that way while we descended the Emmons. They claimed "No problems" getting to Camp Curtis

I thought for minute, he was talking about me

Nice shotz on Silent Running. The last pitch that goes into the trees and overlaps is my fav Hard to believe that the rope pulls back thru clean but I have never had it hang up on anything Ok here's an image for ya Erik Now lets see one from you

Jeez, Sphinky...You want to swing yer tools and have adventure. Did the Price glacier vanish? The N Face of Buckner must be loaded with tourons, too many bugs on the Ice Cliff glacier? Perhaps there's something wrong with your tools? I've got some great sticks with mine this summer already and we're not even into the really prime time yet. If you want, I can check and see if your Cobras work in alpine ice, your welcome to send em my way and I'll report back in a few weeks as to wether they are still good or not. I hope they haven't gone bad.... Cobras are expensive (or so I hear) You haven't lived here long have you? Whatever, folks who cant handle sunshine belong in Seattle, you'll get your wish soon enough. Maybe we will all remember to thank you. I'm with you Josh Ya gotta love them short summer skirts!!!

we camped below the route on east side of the W Depot glacier moraine. Descended the Redoubt glacier. We belayed off your red 1" rapsling when I led the final pitches up

Thats a real good question, that I have been turning over in my head. It would help, of that I am certain but my gut keeps saying that it wouldn't have made a difference in belayed pitches. My partner and I discussed this at some length, after the fact. We ended up deciding that it simply didn't get cold enough at night. BUT the S side descent in the early am required front pointing to descend so what the fuck do I know? We started up the glacier at 6:00am and it was as mushy at that hour as it was when we topped out..... We hit the south side snow at 7:00 am the next day and it was perfect styrafoam...go figure?

Yeah, I would say late August or early Sept would allow the sun to dip lower and probably/likly allow the snow/ice slopes on the apron to get hard. The bridges low will probably still be good but not much longer, it was very warm up there. If you dont mind making it a run out rock climb then I'd say go for it. pm me if you want and I'll give up deets

Nice work guys to ya! Great weather to be sending!!

Good eye's Dru I see nothing, but that dont mean much I did the N and S spire a few days ago. The N. ridge of the south spire is very big choss. best to by pass below and ascend the 4th class ramps from the East. Being a crappy offwidth climber I found the "5.7" finish pitch to be spicy, maybe cause I only had 1 tipped #2 big bro and I was Fun day! didn't look like the S. spire gets climbed much

Somehow we survived this line last Sunday. The bridges on the lower Depot glacier are vanishing but were all passable except for 1 of the 3 that block access to the apron. It required about 20ft of verticle slush tooling above a 40ft slot to overcome. After exiting the glacier to the left to bypass the final 2 wall to wall slots on rock, we opted to stay on the rock as the snow was bottomless sugar. We climbed along the left side of the apron simul, keeping mostly on the rock all the way to the notch, having to rap back down to reach the snow saddle and hopefully solid snow up high. It was not to be found. The NE face keeps sun all day this time of year and the notch pitches were the worst/scariest death leads I've been forced into. Retreat is not an option from here. We managed 3 belayed pitches across the notch then downclimbed across yet another slot that was out of place/unexpected before hitting 4th class rock. Followed this up alongside and above the snow ramp that leads to the ridge exit. From here we lead up a scoop to the right then back left to top out with about 30 mins of daylight left. Fortunately the final 2 pitches of low to mid 5th are on solid rock that protects well. Not much else was solid the entire day. We made a forced bivy at the ridge top and waited 6 "short hours" for daylight and descended.

I was up at Rexford Thurs. Looking across at whats left of the pocket glacier I'd say it slid. Not much left now. I wouldn't bring pons or an axe. Serious turkey shoot crossing the slabs though. Looked like there might still be snow on the N side of the buttress at 1/3rd -1/2 height, hard to say fer sure but that would be my guess.