layton

Try that russian route done a few years back. Seriously, I've always wondered about that mountain. Please post a TR and photos if possible. Thanks, Mike

So how'd it go for folks up on the Biggun's this weekend? I went from almost doing Dragontail, to Baker NR and Headwall link-up, to Squamish, to Mt. Ashulu near squamish(slide blocking approach road...bring sand and wooden planks), back to Squamish (final plan). Where am I? p.s. The Squamish buttress isn't that great of a climb (one great pitch), and the last 10a pitch of Rock on is soakin' wet, so we did a possible new route up a mung-grovel shit-chimney.

2:30am. Just got back from turing around at the N.Side of baker trailhead. Lots of fresh snow, still snowing, heard thunder up higher, hard ice under a new snowpack. Lots of people on snowslopes snowslopes with little avy training. Wonder if the Fates have their sciscors sharpened to cut some life strands this weekend? Think before you go out this weekend! Sunday, with nicer temps (warmer) will be the day of reconing. Too bad, cuz' conditions sounded really good last weekend. DOOM DOOM DOOM! I'm sure I'll get a lot of shit for this post, but...

Don't forget, it's tonight.

Jesus Christ Dude!!! don't leave us hangin' like that...wait... I gotta go...

Yeah, too bad she went home alone as well. Wanna do mount Jimmy Jimmy this weekend, or can't you handle the 5,000 vertical gain 60-80 degree non-stop ice? I checked it out, looks good (it's up real high). Got a massage from Agent Orange today. He hates you all and still thinks something's fishy. I love all of God's creatures, especially fish (tuna).

Vert-Turt, Good luck man! Summer epic road trips will never be the same. Dru, at least you concidered going. Norman, do "mountaineers" and "wisdom" belong in the same sentance? Next time I'll watch the drill sargent intro from Full Metal Jacket before I go climbing. Necro, you suck.

Those ledges almost always have snow until very late season I think. Anyone?

Part I: Greybeard N.Face Solo Attempt I’m writing a long description to fill in some info that Colin and Nelson’s guide descriptions have missing., plus I feel like crap and have nothin’ better to do: With 9000’ freezing levels, overcast skies, and no partners to be found, I thought a great idea would be to go solo Greybeard Friday night . I got to the trailhead at midnight and started skiing. That lasted about 5 minutes and I ditched the skis. The snow was soft, but I wasn’t sinking too far. I found the log crossing easily and crossed it. After that there was no boot track or recognizable trail so I did some serious bushwacking up the slope, constantly wondering where the fuck I was, and when my altimeter read 4500’ I did a long traverse until I came upon the basin (which btw is higher than 4400’). If you decide to go, I’d suggest traversing right immediately till you find the intersecting creek and follow that all the way up. I got to the basin and sunk to my neck occasionally in the avy debris. Shitty. Then I got to the base of the route. Yuuuuuuck! The 45 degree slope Nelson described was thin, running, and contained bits and pieces of ice. Luckily it was quick, but a shit load of slogging loomed ahead. The slope turned into a steep walled avy debris chute, similar to the barrel of a loaded gun. The 65deg slope came soon and I hurled myself onto it. I must not hate myself enough because I turned around at about 6500’ or 1/2 way up the steep ice slope/gully thing. It started turning to really shitty ice, and then after a bit the ice ran out and I kept bottoming out on rock. The top looked so damn close too. While I grappled with my self despair and loathing , it started to rain a bit, and next thing I knew all sorts of shit started to come down. Lots of shit hit me and I frantically tried to downclimb. If I had a belay I’m pretty sure it could’ve gone, but a lot must’ve melted away from last week ‘cuz it was SUPER shitty (rock, wet snow, little bubbles of honeycomb grey ice). I don’t know what I would have done if it hadn’t started raining death above me. Oh well, it’ll be there next year. At the base I ass-slid all the way back to the creek. I looked up at the face and didn’t realize that I got so damn far. I expected to turn around at the trailhead. So I humped it back to the car. From the base of the 1st steep step the descent took 30 minutes. When I looked at my watch back at the car it was 3:45. I think car to summit it might have taken 4 hours, but obviously that’s pure speculation. Colin’s descent looked like the way to go. The approach doesn’t deserve Nelson’s grade III rating. More like a II. WAY EASY. If you weren’t postholing and had great conditions, I wouldn’t be surprised if a fast party could do it car to car in 5-6 hours. Shorter approach than Big 4. The climbing didn’t look to bad if it had more snow or was colder. Makes colonial look like K2. As for the 65 degrees? I’ll bet with more snow, the gullies and the face would level off. I’d like to try a straight-up route (not taking the left gully, and doing the direct finish). I couldn’t see much about that 1st straight-up part since it was dark and my heart was full of terror and shame. One more thing, unless you are a fantastic skier, don’t bring skis. The 1st 1,000 feet of approach is through twisting, thick, thick forest. Lots of tree wells, branches, and stumbling to fall over in, and going down that would be horrific . Bring snowshoes, or better yet, nothing and ditch your poles at the base. Part II: Ski to Sea I was awake for 7 hours on Saturday and woke up Sunday feeling nice and sick. Sore throat, congested, groggy . I had the 1st leg, the x-country ski. It was my first time x-country skiing. The dynamite went off and I surrealistically made it to the finish without falling down. I got 170th overall in the x-country out of 400 which, giving the circumstances, I felt was pretty damn good. That night I got really, really drunk and any thoughts of going to Index monday were washed away in a mix of Black Velvet, Advil, Eccinaesha, and a raging cold. My walk to Hagen’s this morning for doughnuts and coffee felt like a death march . Part III (finally): Slideshow Wed. Night Finally, I’m giving a slideshow THIS WEDNESDAY at 7:00pm. It’s in Viking Union 552. There are infoboards at the south and north ends of campus as the where the VU is. Hope to see some of ya’ll there and some new faces. -Mike

How clear of snow did Backbone ridge look???

Necrophilia, you are a dick, Are you just pissed you're gonna get yo ass whooped in Ski to Sea tomorrow? It wasn't 3/4 up the face. I'll post at TR from the perspective of my jejunum later. [ 05-26-2002, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Sounds cool, I always wondered what Great Basin NP was like. Thanks for the TR of those exotic places we PNW only dare dream exist.

That way if the bar tack rips you're clipped into you'll still be clipped into the loop at the end (which is almost full stregnth since there are no bar tacks to rip). Daisys rule, quick light less chance of death at rappels and anchors. Bring it.

Are you serious? I don't have that good of an aim! Jeeeshh

Jens and CascadeClimber, I'm using 2 of your lovely photos in my slideshow. Hope that's cool.

Don't mess with Necro, he's really screwed up. He forces me to do horrible things in the mountains! If Colin wants to climb hard, he should first have to suffer an alpine climb with Necro first. Then he will be ripe for his initiation!

I dunno about the post show brawl. After doing all your mothers, I doubt any of you pussies have the balls! p.s. I not only invented lightweight alpine climbing, I invented climbing, I am the "correct" style. Watch me strut like a peacock on stage. p.p.s. A sack of cams works much nicer than a sack of doorknobs or a soap in a sock!

I've been debating if I should post this here, but what the hell I spent a lot of time on it. Just worried about ya'll coming and hecklin' me... I'm giving a slideshow Wed, May 29 at 7pm in the Viking Union Room 552 at WWU in Bellingham. It's on rock and ice climbing in WA,Canada,AK,Colorado, and the SW. A little less than an hour. It's all set to music, so they spray time will be minimized. Please leave all rotten vegetables at home.

Well I'm slowly recovering from my ITB. Turns out my hips are outta alignment since my quads and hams are playing tug of war on my hips and lower back. ITB synd was just a side effect (although a painful one). It still hurts, but chiropractic active stretching, ICE, and a good massage therapist (AGENT ORANGE) are getting me back in shape. It's interesting having A.O. as your massage therapist and Necro as your partner (see Stuart 'Bilers link).

quote: Geez...you're a bigger man than I to do something like that...or more gullible No, I'm just stupid. In fact, since I had to hike back up I figgured why bring a tent or bag or stove since we're just gonna wake up when I get there and summit? Well we didn't and I froze my ass off. On that same note, I'd highly reccomend the sulfide as a Car to Car route (along with every other route). Big packs = slow and warm. Small packs = fast and stupid. And like I said, I'm stupid.

Dude, I thought I felt your presence through the other side of the mountain! Could you feel me? is it me or is shuksan the hardest "easiest" mountain there is? I've got a friend (you know who you are) who is a great climber and hasn't summited after SEVEN attempts! Fuck that. I think I'll stay away from the Price this year, although I'ts become quite the yearly tradition.

Took a guided party of 10 up to the sulfide this weekend. Had to hike someone out, drive them home, and hike back in to the camp at the col. It was very warm and the snow (lots) never froze so the other guide and I called it. We went up to near 6500 sunday to practice glacier travel, and the snow was still sloppy. The summit looks snowy. Basically there's a ton of snow and it's soft, although I can't say if I gets harder up higher although I doubt it. If your gonna do it soon, bring snowshoes or skiis and climb at night. The trailhead is 1 mile from where you park. Hope it gets cold for whatever you want to do (or really hot).

What were the temps when you did it?

Too warm. Wait for a couple cold nights, and not too hot during the day. It looks good otherwise.

Jens and Cascadeclimber (whoever you are), you're the two guys topping out on Synchronicity this Feb. I met you at the belay after I led the last pilar pitch. Small world in the retared "sport" that we do. Maybe we'll be cursin' each other on another route someday in our selfishness to be the only ones on a route? The pitch isn't a full 60m. 40 meters maybe? I made it to that litte tail of rock coming down about 1/8 of an inch above the ice in your photo. I think in your photo I'm above the cornices trying not to puke. I just reread my original post. Man I must've been drunk to write that.