layton

I'm new to PDX as of yesterday and I don't know a soul. Anyone who's a PDXer wanna climb? I just started chiropractic college, so I'm gonna be jampacked, but maybe I can squeeze out Yoccum or Smif. Any local beta would be nice too:local climbin', hiking, bars, good food, cheap grocery, dirt bag tricks of PDX, rock gyms, fitness gyms, where the MILFs are, etc... I live in the NE part of town (looks like crap).

Aren't you the frickin' expert after your only visit to the pass!

yeah, i feel like a pussy not leading the last pitch but my feet were really hurting. Rap off w/a 70m rope or bring some tat for slinging bolts to the right if you bail. Fucking hard for the grade. We thought the 5.9 was the 10d?!? Still not sure what pitches were what. They were all steep and thin above p2 (if it was p2.???)/ Anyone got a good topo of the Unfinished Symphone/Snake/Dream On/Anxiety state area. It's a total cluster fuck in the guidebook

thanks ian

Jesse, it starts just right of Arrowroot and rutabega in a dirty bushy right slanting crack (5.8) I backed off of it yesterday. Actually I didn't even touch the route, but I brought my shit to the base. 2 parties ahead of me, so it's getting climbed, thus cleaned. I talked to the party just starting up at the bar that evenign and they convinced me not to do it today. They said the pitches were very wet esp p.7 (soaking wet) and since there's a lot of lichen on route, it would be doubleplus unfun after a rain. So I'll go do it next summer after the hoardes clean it (bring a brush and help it out). Looks like some super fun alpinclippin. ps. I did the 1st 6p of Unfinished Symphony (the long rt facing corner between snake and diedre) Fucking awesome! Thin thin thin thin awesome corner. Bring your tiny nuts n' big balls. I also discoved what a great climb the Great Game is! Those two climbs are among the BEST i've ever done in Squamton, although the 1st p. of the great game is a 60m ass kicker. ps, please donate to the bolt fund at Valhalla pure

Yup.

someone please post photos of the Adamants. Colin, Dberdinka is a big boy with a good sense of humor. Only little men get offended by that stuff. Watch... ...hey Darin! You can't come to the pub club cuz Colin's gonna be there and you know what your court order says about you and people Colin's age... The level III'ers are having a bbq across the street. Go join them...

I was a bit rude earlier... The reason I want this guidebook is cuz of the adamants. Also guidebooks rule, not cuz of the beta, but the photos. Love those photos. I'd rather have 200p of photos upon photos and no text, than anything. Also one guide for an area is way cheaper than sifting through countless journals. ps. Colin, way to rip on dberdinkass. you should do that more often.

no one asked you.

insert quote,... "err ahh so Janey. I stuck my tongue in your ear 'round '78. Anyway, can I borrow some money and get a ride. Huge granite..can't say where...gotta go, think the lines being tapped by Kearney"

eat better and exercise

Heard it's not gettting published since no one bought the south. Any one heard this? Wonder if we can send a check and get a ghetto xerox copy or pdf file.

Good idea. I know Jason Martin had the same idea. You should email him. I will help.

Either do the line and bail cuz it's runout and wait for the future (which is a way fucking cool and anit-ego way to be) Or, bolt it and do a cool sport pitch on your alpine route. Anti bolts = anti cool lines that wouldn't be done nt. Fuck you dumbfucks. I haven't ever placed a bolt, but goddamnit, I would if I could.

Everyone has to wait for photos this summer. WWU has it's head up it's ass and broke all the scanners at campus so I gotta wait until loans come in an friggin buy one! What should I buy (slideshow quality)?

How come no excitement and sprayage on the Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower? Line up and get a photo with the 1st ascenionists for only $5!

no, they can actually put some real freaky shit on it so it will NEVER grow back. Had it done to my ingrowns (the side of my big toenails are gone forever!) ...tighter rock shoes too.

Ishtar is funny, don't knock it till you've seen it. Worst of all time: Gosford Park. omfg does it suck worst seen recently: Hollywood Homicide. kept checking my watch, frequent bathroom/smoke breaks. had to ask the manager how long the movie was after the 1st 1/2 hour.

topo attached Thanks for putting up the route guys. Climbed it yesterday with Mark Allen. Scooped out new lines around the pass in the rain today. Beta for the route: Only QD's (around 10), and one 60m rope, trad gear is totally useless. Awesome jams!!! Double rope raps are bad (ez stickin). Well protected. A bit dirty and wandery, there's a broom at the base to help clean it. Pull out your bag of tricks cuz this route has many differnt types of holds and moves. Not your average grunt and pull down. 1200' of alpinclippin' 245153-sysiphustopo.pdf

Dude, Kill your nail forever at the Doc's in the next couple o' months during the shitty inbetween season. It'll be so worth it. Takes a couple weeks to heal after the minor in office surgery.

The only problem is there aren't many places one can try a good ice boot on. Special orders = u must buy it...same with ordering online from a european website. I think I'm gonna go with a cheaper, less durable boot that fits and by the time it wears out, the new generation of ice boots will have come into the shops and the crappy wierd ones will have died out by then. It's a bad idea to buy a product in it's first season of production. Anyone think it's weird the Vasque has been advirtising the fuck outta their new line (Alpinist Mag,etc...), yet they haven't been out for over a year (and looks like it'll be a while still)??? I have hears that the Vasque series is the shit, but these were demos used 3 years ago in the Ruth.

Ahhh, Cascadeclimbers.com. You guys are the best!

I tried to sell em but no one bought em so I was forced to wear them (felt good in the store for an hour) cuz I had no more $$. I don't agree with the light = not-durable comment. It's all in the craftsmanship.

He was my first climbing partner and we both moved at the same time pre-email so we never saw each other since. He lived in boulder,co last I knew. Just realized this site may help find my bro. Tripp, come back, Tripp! anyone know if his old girlfriend is single?

Good info so far. It's damn hard to find a shop that carries ANY of these picured boots. I'm surprised the Freney took so long to break it, it looked pretty soft. Alas. The reason I detest the Trango series from La Sportiva is because they only last about one season, if that! I have heard countless climbing partners bitch about their trango "s" or "ice" or "whatever" blow out after just a few uses, myself included. Also, the fit is very bad for me. Too much volume, too tight on the toes. I have to get major surgery done to remove a massive bone spur next to my pinky toe due in part to my Trango Ice boot. Anyone that's seen it has said, "Fuck Dude, that things huge!" I'm seriously concidering ordering the Vasque boots and wearing them around the house for hours on end and using em on the treadmill at the YMCA then returning them if they don't fit (after my surgery). ps. the bone thing was 90% my fault, the other 10% is La Sportiva wouldn't take em back. In fact, the WILL NOT WARRENTY BOOTS ANYMORE (cuz they know they suck).