layton

toe warmer packets!

You should be able to TR any pitch of ice if you are in descent shape and have some experience. A WI 5 top rope is about as impressive as doing a 5.8 tr in the gym.

Pretty fucking sweet! that's pretty hard core for that girl on her 1st time out. any more stories?

I look at the climb and decide from there. I'll use the guidebook rating as a general reference, but a chandaliered WI4 w/shrooms is way harder than a plastic wi5.

Any beta for getting to the climbs with I-84 closed at MP 17???

probably not, but who knows for sure?

I found a neoprene camera pouch that fits my camera percect with a velcro closure for ez opening with on hand. I clipped it to my harness through the belt loop strap AND the lanyard so I don't drop it. I added a heavy duty rubber band between the lanyard and belt loop so I can raise the camera to my eyes while still having it attached to my harness. I can take a photo during any time belaying ice or rock this way. I've looked for a replacement pouch for when mine has had it's day, but haven't seen one.

I've always loved Silkweight Capilene. It does the best job and I've never had a stink problem. I used to like Mtn Hardware's ZeO2 until it was discontinued. Powerdry now makes a silkweight I'd be willing to test. For ice I have been using a MEC onepeice union suit. Pretty sweet. I was taken back down memory lane from that Melenzama link. I lived in Leadville for two years and own a shirt from them. I had no idea they were known outside of town. Fucking hippies.

yeah, but if you only go up like once a year it's kind of a fun tradition. more for the trip than the ice. of course that's loser talk.

...if my school is closed again (probably) and if it's still in. My partner flaked on me today and I'm to lazy to solo or TR shit after 3 weeks of ice other places . If it's not it at least we got out, and maybe could pick up some leftovers on the way back. I'll slut out my home phone (503)408-6504, although I don't answer it usually, leave a message. p.s. I've already PM'd a bunch of folks, so I'll play "matchmaker" if many want to climb.

I've done Black Orpheus in 1.5 hours and Levatation 29 in just under 4 hours. Epinepherine was 5.5 hours car to car. Even more amazing is my solo descent time from the Fox was measured at 9.8m/s, which is unbeatable as far as the law is concerned.

Climb Black Orpehus, follow the descent down the 1st rapell, and climb/solo back up into the painted bowl via a very easy corner/chimney. You should see chicken lips from the top of the Black Orpheus. Black Dagger should be combined with Nightcrawler (you mixed up the name). It takes minutes to get from black orpheus to chicken lips and is infinetley better than doing solar slab or the likes.

If you are into kiddy porn, I CAN climb tomorrow if my el flako partner doesn't call me back, and skoul isn't cancelled tomorrow.

Thanks for the vote MisterE, but I'm only 26(I'll be 27 soon). Gotta wait 3 more years for Biggus Dickus, er...sorry, Marcus Twatus...sorry, Twightus.

I am smart enouf to wrok at WALLMart. hooooray

I drove by yesterday and it wasn't too formed up to be good. Anyone know how it is now. I'm stuck at school. I may have no school tomorrow due to weather, but if not I'll probably do a midnight climb. Bottom line is I can't check it out in daylight today so I'd really appreciate the info, (or a PM if you don't want it swarmed). thanks!

I'd have the AAJ library in Golden do your research and write it off as a business expense. They seem to have reasonable rates. So when are you gonna come up and climb some big ol cascade rock routes? I think this website needs to be expanded for total U.S. climbing "beta" and "spray". There really is no other climbing website quite like this one! All others are so damn boring. Maybe world domination some day. P.S. Chris, I know we make lots and lots of fun at the supertopos, but I know we also have all used em too. Have you ever though about adding ice routes. You could make lots of $$ cuz they would need to be changed every year, "2003's screw hole is now 5" lower than last years." Or super topos on walk up routes like Shasta or Mt. Baker.

That looks a lot like NE Portland

wherez doze frum?

Gorge Ice: Dick, Squat, Jack, and Shit are formed. Tooo warm.

sorry, I got confused. you're from seattle. never mind most of what I said.

Go do the Resolution arete and you should be fine on any long route in the cascades within your lead ability. Slesse offers enough options to make it very moderate. Go buy some guidebooks for the PNW (selected climbs, red beckey guide, waddington guide, bugaboo guide, SW BC alpine select, squamish, etc) and look at the pictures. Whatever looks cool, go do that one. A good route to me or anyone is crowded and crap to another. I go off aesthetics and guide book propaganda. PS. to get to chicken lips from Black Orpheus. You head left and do some scrambling . I think we did one rappell also to like em. If just doing chicken lips, do not approach from eagle wall like swain suggests. head up the black orpheus descent instead. Black O. goes so fast it should be illegeal to call it a grade IV. Have fun and say hi to Mark Limage and Gary Savage if ya know em. If you know Gary, give his dog a kick for me too.

Here are a few of the better pics I shot this trip. Borgeau Left: Borgeau Right: Howse Peak: Creepy weeping wall omen:

fat WI0 conditions. Took me 8 hours from Bellingham to PDX (plus 4 from Lillooet to B'ham). I was pissed to see it so warm in PDX compared to our more dignified northern cities. Other Shit: Something on HWY 12 outta lillooet. Hope-not much. maybe soon (real soon) Bellingham: If I lived in bellingham I would get my tools out tomorrow am and run around like a goon and climb stuff like the waterfalls in the Chuckanuts, or the waterfall in the Lake Samish park. I bet shit is in that's never ever in. PDX: I'm gonna go scope shit out in PDX tomorrow but I am totally wasted tired so I don't think I'll call anyone to climb (but I'll grab a rope and a pair of tools anyway). I'm not familiar with the mountains around here to thrash around rainier and hood in search of ice in one day, plus theres a lot of snow. Speaking of snow I hope that skiier didn't die in alpental. Canadian Rockies: Wish I lived there. Wouldn't care how fucking cold it got in the Cascades. Anyway I spend around 3 weeks up there and lots of stuff is in. If you wanna climb it, it's probably in unless it's an early season one that's destroyed by chinooks. Ghost is drivable and super fat now. 'specially the Beowolf area. Don't know about avy anymore. I was great, but any new snow since last week would be bad. I'm guessing it snowed. Lilooeet: Just go back from an american attack on Lillooeette. I think we won. Lots of sheep shagging and clownpucnching. Polish Bob and I TR'd the shit outta Carl's Berg. The old standby's are in, but the one's you haven't seen in...aren't. D'arcy valley - Pemberton isn't in at all. I'll let the gang do up a better tr from this weekend up there. There were a Fuckload of Cc.comer's there that's for sure and we all drank a lot of beer and some ice WAS climbed. A big to all the new and old faces up there. and a big to all the clownpuchers who were to chickenshit to keep their Polish Bob artwork permenantly attached to their rear windshields. MrE will undoubtedly post a photo of one of his fine works in a couple days. That's all the ice that's fit to print. Back to school for me.

Does that mean Drury falls is in (and don't give me that it doesn't need to be in to be in shit)?