layton

Or the "PitchSpork" so you can shovel shit and hay at the same time.

Since you can't read, it shouldn't matter to you anyway. I'm not looking for routes already in selected books. Instruction manual? I'm sure you've never used a topo before. I hate books that inspire and get me dreaming of journeys ahead.

derektissima "beta" Bear DNB "beta" here ya go Don!

I;ve gotten some great requests. Please keep them coming. I'm just collecting routes right now. i'll email you back for specifics later.

hahahhahahha! Hey, nice job on your sendfest up here! You put some shit down!

I just love my Sierra Designs tent cup holder, O.R. pack cover, and crampon pouch. won't lead a pitch w/o them

sounds pretty lame dude, pretty f-in' lame

I'd like to slap happy

Been playing Marco Polo in the fog the past week. I've been in Newfoundland w/Justin and Jordon. Don't worry, we're back.

Testicular Jump Start

thread

Between climbs this summer, I am planning on writting a guidebook to climbs in West, with emphasis on the PNW. I know there are a bunch of select guidebooks and 50 classic types out there already. What I would like to do is write an "online" guidebook to routes that YOU think are fun. I want to include routes that are not in any select book. Random examples would be climbs like the Ptarmigan Traverse, Gato Negro, Green Dragon, the Pickets Traverse, N. Face Davis Peak, Zero Gully, etc... I do not plan on violating any copyrights. After I get a list of routes I want to include, I will email or call you for the beta. I won't include your name with the route so people can't blame it being shitty on you personally. Areas: Anywhere from Alaska to mexico, the pacific ocean to the rockies. PNW climbs are the focus however. Climbs: Traverses,Long Alpine Rock to easy 5.11, easy alpine rock, alpine ice to any difficulty, water ice to WI5,aid to easy A3, longer crag routes. Can't already be in a select book. Please write back with as many routes as you can think of that you have climbed. Include a short description of the type of climbing, location, and difficulty. After that, I will contact you for more information. As I will not be making any money off this project, I can't pay you. If you think the fist ascentionist would be pissed if I wrote his or her route up, please include their names and I'll ask their permission. Please fwd this email to anyone you think would be of service. I really hope you concider doing this for me because I think it would be very cool to have a guidebook like this available. If you know my email address, please email me, otherwise send me a PM (private message).

fuck, i missed a sale!

So I'm parking the General at the fairhaven red apple to buy some PBR to enhance the fireworks display and some dude with crazy yellow hair and bloodshot eyes is staring at me from his Subaru. For a minute I think it is my friend Eric strung out on heroine or just back from guiding. Anyway, the dude stops and says, "Hey! Aren't you that guy from cascadeclimbers.com?"

Thank God you guys did it! I ripped that page out of my guidebook. I'm relieved that the approach took so long for you as well. The 1st time in to the lake we were lost in the clouds as well and had no clue if we were even at the right lake! The 2nd time in a broken rib kept us off. Each time provided new lows of human evolutionary bushwacking skills. Once again, I'm very pysched you guys pulled it off and the route was actually fun! Way to go! Just curious, why didn't you hike up the right side of the river like was suggested to me after my last aborted attempt? That way sounds much nicer and Jordan Peters flagged it i think. Does that look like a better way to go? Thanks for the TR, I hope you took photos.

I heard it was more like 5.8-

sounds like fun, only 4.5 hours to basecamp?!? shit in my mouth!

Touche'

only catch is you gotta drive and drop me off in north Van on the way home.

those fruit bars are amazing!

The Route: Vehicular Bushwacking!: Mighty Steinbok: Looking down on Ibex: More Steinbok: High up on the climb: Even more Steinbok (unlike bouldering, looking at this mountain DOES NOT get old): Fern on pitch 3: Fern on Springbok Arete 2 long pitches from the top:

Der Top On Der Ridge: Der NE Couloir: Below Der Crux: MisterE On Der Slabben: Der Diehedral:

Climb: Les Cornes-Springbok Arete Date of Climb: 7/1/2004 Trip Report: Fern and I climbed the Springbok Arete yesterday. It is rated TD+ 10c 16p. We did it in 13p, and I'll give the blow by blow in how to do it in 11p. The climb starts out p1-6 as a total choss heap, but p7-16 is steep, hard, and sustained. Fern and I got the keys from Catermerole logging and hung out in hope till late afternoon. We didn't want to spend long camping b/c of the bugs so we started hiking round 6pm. The approach is short but CONCENTRATED. It's a special place where i like to come to just to think. It gets a tripple plus unfun rating and a skin loss five star. We started climbing around 6am and we swapped leads until the base of the 5.9 o.w. which is very easy BTW. After the o.w. it gets fucking steep! I linked both 5.10 pitches and the 1st is an overhanging o.w. to fist crack. very very strenous with a pack. I freed every move but one on the 10c finger crack. I just couldn't reach the finger pod and tried an alpine dyno, but with my pack on and huge rack, my dyno turned into a dead point so I didn't reach it in time. Luckily i was only 1 small move I couldn't do b/c the free section was sooo much fun. Some of the ratings seem sandbagged for similar climbs, but it's a Cheesmond rt. of Canadian Rockies fame. Some of the 5.8 and 5.9 felt way harder than many squamish 10a's. In fact there are only 5 pitches below 5.9 outta the 16 and one of the 5.8's (the last pitch) was wicked hard! The climb is just so steep and exposed after the ramp! I highly reccomend it! The raps sucked, but weren't awful. The tail end of my lead rope go twirled around a horn after we pulled most of it down and I had to chop it. My beautiful 70m rope is now a boring old 60m! Here's the beta: The beckey guide doesn't decribe the best way to go, McLain's guide does so I'm going off his written description. p1. same p2.same. terrain belay or huge cam for anchor p3. don't stop until out of rope. many belay stops p4. stretch the rope to the base of the 5.9 crack p5.do the finger crack AND the O.W. belay just after the ow. This avoids the miserable belay above. p6. up crazy steep blocks O.W. and overhanging fist crack. Save your big stuff for the O.W. and fist crack. run it out on the blocks. belay at big ledge. this way will split up the 5.10 but you could keep going. p7. up the finger crack (much easier than other 5.10pitch) don't go to heathery belay, do the 5.8 hand traverse. p8. up the 10c corner and run the rope till it's out. p9. skip the useless bolts, do the very hard lieback flake and belay below overhangs either in a bad spot on good gear or a good spot on bad gear. p10. up the hard 5.9 overhang fingercrack until out of rope and gear p11. up the insanely hard 5.8 to the top skipping the retarded anchor bolt on the summit. Why is there one bolted belay station? WTF? That's retarded. And the summit bolt? I you manged to find belays earlier on, you should be able to higher up. Best beta for belays is save one of your #2 cams b/c most anchors need one. If you're gonna bolt something, bolt the goddamned descent rappels! We pussied out and belayed the "gut-churning" a-chevel, ez, but exposed. A full 60m rap gets you to another station straight down. We got our rope stuck and had to chop it. Next 60m rap gets you down into the gully. Keep left downclimb, keep left of rock rib in middle of gully, hunt for pin/biner rap anchor on slab. 60m rap. go right, down, and hunt for 35 meter rap (last 5m ez downclimbing even with sketchy moat). Moving slow we were 9hours up, 2 hours down. It's a hard call b/c it feels like a grade V and I added up the points (i.e. 3 5.9's = 27pts) and it rivals bear mtn's DNB but there are some very short pitches if you go by the guidebook. PHOTOS ARE COMING TODAY PROBABLY Gear Notes: double set of camalots .5-2 green and yellow alien small nut selection 3,4,4.5 camalot !!!!helmets!!!! 70meter rope nice, 60m rope ok 6mm 60m rap line Approach Notes: bring body armor for the krumholtz forest up top, and thrashing gear for the clearcut jungle at bottom. desceptively shitty. very concentrated suffering.

did i miss something? was there some sort of flame war i missed? I re-read my response to slaphappy and for the life of me can't figure out what I said wrong? as for the rating? It was R b/c there was lots of crappy gear, the rock sucked, and many ledges to deck on. The crux was protected at me balls as Darin stated, although getting that piece in was DESPERATE. I didn't rate it, I don't think the leader should rate the pitch so I had MisterE rate it. i said it felt like 5.10 so i didn't question his rating. I don't care if it's rated to 5.7supersafe. go repeat it and downgrade it please, although I can think of better things to do....

saw it again yesterday. no cracks. fuckin scary