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Everything posted by layton
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"Helicopter to Base: Roger that...., we're gonna take another sweep of the fire. Over." "Dude, I'm sooooo friggin' High! Let's circle till till the rotors are covering in resin" "Base to Helicoptor: is that the grateful dead playing in the background?"
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ahhhh memory lane, my 1st post...sniff
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[TR] Chianti Spire- East Face/Rebel Yell 6/20/2004
layton replied to gnibmilc's topic in North Cascades
That was a fad. Polish Bob is much better than that now b/c it would be too soft a grade even though it's unclimbed and unrated. Fucking clownpunchers -
[TR] Cutthroat Peak- Communtiy Service Project 6/20/2004
layton replied to layton's topic in North Cascades
We were saving that for you dude! Go get it! I looks amazing. We were like, "WOW" let's save that for Thrutch and do this other line to the left. Splitter cracks, good pro, and moderate climbing for sure. Better get after it soon though, such a proud line surely cannot last. -
Open-book and especially WhoDunnit are amazing, safe, and fun as hell. Fingertip too is good. Only had one day though, but I'd like to do traitor horn and super-poopers
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dude there plent of climbing in southern illinois and you're close to kentucky, etc...
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Yours truly "came" in last and am chokin' on the cracker after the bellingham pub club sausage festival
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[TR] Mt. Garfield- Infinite Bliss 5/15/2004
layton replied to Adventurewagen's topic in Alpine Lakes
IF you buy 15 hooded sweatshirts form the link on my autosig, you get a free 15th pitch topo bike messenger bag. -
Don't let Peter Croft get ahold of that summit register!
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[TR] Cutthroat Peak- Communtiy Service Project 6/20/2004
layton replied to layton's topic in North Cascades
we are gonna do some of the couloirs on the south face of Thorton and Ross peaks next... -
Bob was choking Layton from 5 feet away! WRONG! I won the game and am trying to eat the cracker...
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Dru and Jordan were in charge of the Canadian Section, and since they are both flaming gay, it should be clear why you did not get the invite. Wish you were there, but concider it a blessing in disguise. Polish bob was foaming at the mouth (and not from the rabies either if you get my drift )
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what part? i'm from wilmette
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Post deleted by michael_layton
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my mouse isn't working well, Jon. Please come here and fix it for me immediately. Also tell Dru to stop emailing me for beta
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I remember free-soloing the Diamond on Bear Mtn after skyboarding with the guatamalean geko farmers and being like, whoa, didn't you just take a bunch of peyote buttons? could this all be in your head? P.S. thanks for the awesome party Darin and folks. good burgers, beer, and slideshows despite polish bob's best efforts.
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I declare the north cascades CLIMBED OUT
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That typo on the last sentance was better than my original intention. It's climbed out and i named ever route after myself. i don't care if people have been climbing there for a long time since I traveled back in time to steal the precious ascents. Actually, i just wanted to let folks know there was some stuff there cuz not many people know about it. It gets the Bellingham one star.
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If you make a rt onto Fairhave st off Chuckanut drive (there's an art gallery/espresso joint there) and follow it to Mud Cove during low tide, you will be rewarded with a crapload of bouldering. Down low are shorter probs, up high are much longer walls. the rock isn't as good as Clayton, which isn't saying much. Happy hunting. p.s also some gear and aid routes available. I have to F.A. on everything so don't get too excited.
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Am now back in the motherland, Bellingham! I want to hang out with my old friends and new ones. PM me for my # and address. I am soooooooooo happy to be back. This is great! Take portland you cruel heartless bitch.
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Climb: Cutthroat Peak-Communtiy Service Project Date of Climb: 6/20/2004 Trip Report: (Picutres slowly to come.) Note: I am posting this not from my computer. I have broken into someone's house. No lie. The window was open... ...My last final exam is over! I rush home and throw everything in my car and race to Bellingham from Portland. Jordan Peters meets me at the height of human depravity, Stuarts Coffee Shop, site of my last refuge in Bellingham last year. The hippies have taken over. There is no going back. The age of man is over. We drive to Washington Pass, but first to Necro's house to leave cars. He is climbing with Darin. We wonder when they will fail.... Same day continues on, i am getting confused. My soul, as the Sherpa's say, as not caught up. it never does. Could've won like 7,000 tickets at the Wack-a-Mole game. The snafflehounds are now in control. Cutthroat now sulks above me. New route? Yes! Average of 4 hours of sleep for two weeks. Now I can't sleep. Jordan and I drink (each) a full hip flask of Canadian whiskey -different brands. Then the spray begins....all is black. Thoughs of maybe taking a day to chill out after finals invades my dreams. Dear GOD! What the fuck is that noise? Alarm! Achtung! Where the fuck am I? Why is it so fucking hot? Wake up time. Now as some keen readers may observe, my previous experience on cutthroat peak involved some hardcore fecal hording. NOT THIS DAY! in fact, Jordan, worried as to the legacy of this mtn, let loose his brown creation 4 times in 2 hours. Sweet holy jesus! We are spared from the gut churning to come. I am worried that i have herniated my gut. I cannot stand straight. Also, my equilibrium seems to be severly impared. Mouth....soooooo dry. So WHY hasn't the West Face of Cutthroat been climbed Jordan and I wonder from the comfort of out spray chairs? Shit, i've seen it up close. I should know. But alas, as an alpinist, i do not remember such details as what things look like, the rock quality, gear, approach, etc... Looks damn fine from the car. Looks pretty good from camp. Hell, lets climb it. It was the whiskey talking. West Face of Cuttroat Peak: Joran Peters and Mike Layton. Whatever day it is, 2004. Climb, "Community Service Project" 5.fun (X) It should've been a nice approach. I thought I was gonna die. Jordan felt the same. We took too much. to much tooo much too much. I gotta quit this, I think. Jordan alerts me that then I would have nothing. Ouch! YEAH! Jordan got the fist pitch! Do i remember what that was? NO! Already blotted out like a good alpinist. It was a four star pitch if I remember. My next lead climbed on rocks. It was soooo much fun and safe. A classic. Most cam lobes touched the rock...all at once! A giveaway! It starts to blur. Jordan stems an entire pitch no b/c it was a stemming pitch, but b/c the rock was sooo solid, that he didn't want to not be on it and maybe chop the ropes by doing something silly like sneezing, or using his feet. I go up. No gear. Ever. Scared. Rockfall. I yell to jordan to move the belay behind a boulder. He does. I send down another rock. I bounces, hits my leadropes, accelerates to mach 10, basketball size right at jodan's Face. It hits the boulder right at his face and spilts in two, sending both 1/2's across each ear on his head unhit! He falls backwards as I watch in horror. Nope, I'm definately not on belay anymore. I clutch the downsloping oatmeal. More pitches. The route wanders in search of gear. Our headwall is blank, verticle, and totally featureless. We change direction. My head is spinning from the day before and the devilish heat. Must be 90 degrees out. Jordan leads a desperate mung flake. I lead verticle kitty litter with no gear. a green alien fits in the sand. It looks pretty there, so I go up more. Jordan curses my judgement as he follows the pitch. somethign about how he would've died on lead there..... FUCK! We wind up in the descent gully Necro and I rapped long ago. The route is over. There are no options. A variation to something was established at least. What? Yes! Our communtiy service project to the climbing community! Our mission? Well it's to present a route of such grace and form to the world climbing community. Mission Accompished! Descent was lots of fun too. I missed a couple really realy good oppurtinies to chop out rope. A mtn goat was trying to kick shit down on us. In fact, 3 raps took 3 hours. I was that much fun! I arrived in Bellingham to find the place I was gonna crash at is empty, and the owner is in AK till the 16th of next month. So I broke in and am not an official Squatter. Climbing is such a good social skills activity. Gear Notes: full body helmets trowels extra underpants
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I'm not going to be the person to say it, but someone else please finish her sentance for her....