Climb: Snoqalamnie Mtn-NY Gully
Date of Climb: 2/12/2006
Trip Report:
Fourth time was the charm! I think there are plenty of TR's on this climb, so I'll just add my .02 Conditions were good enough to get up it, obviously. I found a square foot of ice for a few threads of a screw so that was a plus. Lots of digging for mystery holds so the pitches took some time. We used a 70m and did it in 6 pitches, but less if we didn't go an "alternate" way near the top. Marcus did some cool splitter crack layback carefully avoiding a loose death chockstone. there was a bail biner on an orange nut partway up. this is just after the ramp pitches near the ridgecrest. Then I went straight up to the left summit up a splitter jam crack. Descending from the top was very very tricky. The best approach in good avy conditions is up the phantom slide. I can provide GPS coordinates thanks to Alex (thanks Alex). But it's pretty much straight up from the parking lot all the way to the ridge you drop in from. The climb is fun, pretty sustained, some tricky and not so good gear, and excellent moss sticks. it took about 12 hours car to car, less with rope drag issues.
Marcus has way better pics, but the cd he burned me doesn't work. my pics are kinda blah. the 1st was taken a while ago, but looks about the same.
The route minus the 1st and part of the 2nd pitch
Source lake
Mt Garfield
Marcus on the Ramp
Marcus following
The descent of the top
Gear Notes:
60-70m rope
13-15 slings
a screw
a few blades and LA's
some nuts
set o' cams small to 3", two one inch and 1/2 inch cams
several tri-cams (invaluable)
Approach Notes:
up phantom slide
no misery shoes required...about 3 hours from car to climbing.
a couple hours or less from the top to the car