CascadeClimber

On top of that I have an email from the park superintendent saying that this very thing would not be allowed (giving the guide services access to areas closed to the public). Accountability Zero at MORA.

Got a source for that? Amount of snow isn't the only pertinent metric. I climbed Rainier in mid-January and it looked like October up there. We had to carry our skis down from Cath Gap because the snow wasn't continuous and we were barely able to sneak through at Pan Point on skis. So all that "6th highest June 1st total in the last 31 years" snow came down in late storms that don't compact into lasting snowpack or bond with the icy layer(s) below. So the snowpack is more unstable and melts out faster. The firn line recedes and we get icy slopes or loose rock on the mountain like we have on Lib Ridge right now. Whatever. Six people are dead, including someone I know. Suckfest.

It's melting out earlier down low- the Carbon and the part of the ridge below Thumb Rock. I was surprised to see so much alpine ice so early in the season on the TR from early May. That is also unusual. Regardless of your belief about the cause, the glaciers are rapidly disappearing and our winter precipitation pattern has changed substantially in the last 25 years. Getting 50% of our winter snowpack in a couple weeks, like we did this year, results in an uncharacteristically unstable snowpack that melts out faster.

I don't think that's really the issue for most of us: Climbing is something we're all doing, so we'd have to lie about it on the app to get the lower cost coverage.

In my experience they don't care about the details: You climb, or you don't. And if you lie you'll have something really unpleasant to consider if you ever die slowly in the mountains. To add to the fun, expect to pay 8-10x more for your policy. I tried to add some coverage last year that would cover everything except mountaineering/climbing. Not possible. This is an area where the AAC could really provide some value.

This whole thread is about doing things the right way or the stupid way. For a whole lot of reasons, the knot goes on the side of the anchor with the thinner rope, always. Does it matter every time? No. Is there any reason to be on the losing (falling) side when it does? Also no. Climb smart. Don't fall. You could die. And don't cut gate locks. You probably won't die from that, but you make all of us look bad.

That thing look a lot more fun as a winter/spring climb. I climbed in in July or August of 1996 and I think I still have volcanic dust and pumice lodged in crevices here and there. Plus it was so damn hot we jumped in the lake on the way down to stave off heat stroke. Neat to see pics of it again- it's been a long time.

IMO: Dumb to cut the lock. But no more dumb that NPS staff using the gated road for their own climbing outings while it remains closed to the public. They routinely do this on the upper West Side road in the summer as well. My opinion: If the public is obliged to walk so should the NPS staff, unless it's a rescue. It's a National Park, not a private playground. +1 to the point about MORA staff throwing access and the public under the bus last fall, too. They don't give a rat's ass about the public/access, just their budget.

Well done. Especially good call to transition as conditions dictated. More than one person has paid the ultimate price for not doing so.

I've helped run a few sites going back to 2000. Every one got 'orphaned' by the forum software dev, going back to the original wwwboard script. Did either of your two current options exist in 2005? The site's only as good as its content. For my part, I come for route conditions and some of the TRs. The socializing/banter/spray side left me behind in the heyday of Ray and that crew- the signal/noise ratio just got way too low. That said, I'm sure that for as many people as there are like me, there is an equal number who come here to treat people in a way they wouldn't in person. From an ad-impressions standpoint, they count equally. The problem is the 'content' they contribute tends to chase off people posting TRs and other useful info and pretty soon it's just a bunch of trolls with no one left to troll. Site design is, I think, not nearly as important as content. I also think Facebook et al has taken a pretty huge toll on sites like this, across the board. What this forum did to the old message board at Marmot, Facebook is perhaps now doing in turn.

I was wondering if that south side ramp through the icefall would go. Good work. That's not a short route, but you sure got good weather for it. Great pics, too.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Seattle-Mountain-Rescue/212114235514681

Rainier and its weather and conditions are not static, or consistent year to year. Like others said, it can be hot and sunny in May, and it can be blizzard-like mid-Winter conditions. The route can be 3000' of kicked-in steps, or 3000' of alpine ice. What people wear and how they climb depends on those things and their skills. It's been soloed and skied, and I've watched teams pitch out the entire thing.

I was wondering earlier today if the Carbon is passable right now.

PM or email your email address; I have some pic of you guys. Nice sharing the upper mountain with you!

Of those I've done: North Face of Chair Nisqually Icefall

Surreal, windless weather. Ledges in less than great shape, but wholly climbable. ID in much better shape than last January. Usual long-winded prose here: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/blog/?p=484

A little bird told me today that it is in. Treat as a good indication but not a guarantee.

I'm hearing he fell when a cornice on which he was standing broke; the avy, such as it was, resulted from that. Report is imminent on NWAC.

I want to say it was around '95 they closed. No, they closed after High Mountain Rendezvous, and that closed in 97 or 98. Wilderness was a year or two later. Swallow's Nest opted to not move off Capital Hill when REI did. Feathered Friends did. It's obvious how that worked out. I am still in frequent contact with three people who worked at HMR and hear from a few more every once in a while. That was a good shop with great staff.

Went in today and there's a "We're closing, final sale" notice on the front door. I'm sad to see yet another of our once plentiful small, mountaineering shops go away, especially Marmot. They had a good selection and knowledgeable staff. Bummer.

I was up there around noon on Sunday. Have pics on FB. There was enough snow to make it easier than it can be this time of year.

Too bad for the dog. I am still baffled by the dog owners who simply ignore the leash rules to the detriment of everyone except their selfish selves. Not good for their dogs, not good for other skiers, climbers, or hikers. Use a leash where it's required, folks.

What time do you want to start down? 9 hours from White River to Columbia Crest would be quick. Variable. Depends on spring weather and winter snow pack. Right now the latter is way behind. Snow on the Emmoms seems to get unpleasant for skiing before it does on other routes. I'm not sure when White River opens. With the budget issues they've been opting to close before weather hit and opens later than they would have to. Possibly. Probably. If you have the lungs and legs, I think it's easier than two days. I tend to try for other routes that time of year. The Emmons is a year-round route but others go out of shape by early June.

Great photos!