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Winter

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Everything posted by Winter

  1. The Sea Cliffs of Great Head, Acadia National Park
  2. [TR] Mt Hood - Pearly Gates Left 1/3/2013

    Hey, nice to meet you guys at the Hogsback. What a great day on the mountain. After y'all left, I wallowed to the summit ridge and topped out to 30-40 mph winds with weather moving in. The turns down the old chute were pretty darn nice - mostly consolidated and carvable wind affected snow with limited penetration. Depending on the weather, the upper mountain might be in pretty good ski condition this weekend. Nice photos, btw.
  3. Cool! My wife and I circumnav'd Kenya in '01. Beautiful place and much less hammered than Kili - and lots more climbing potential. Been wanting to go back with a rack since. Thanks for the TR.
  4. The NW Disconnect

    Walking 10 miles to climb 6 pitches ain't for everyone.
  5. Trip: Mt. Stuart - Gorillas in the Mist Date: 8/4/2012 Trip Report: Jaime Bohle and I climbed Gorillas a few weeks ago, and I've been on the road since then but wanted to chime in with my two cents and a little bit of beta. First things first, major props to the FA team on a stout route that was put up under less then ideal conditions. I'm sure that a lot of the climbing involved difficult route finding, tedious pro placements and somewhat sketchy rock in a wild setting - an impressive effort. I also have to add that I got my ass handed to me. Apart from generally being soft and weak, I just felt off after having come back from a 10+ day binge of eating, drinking and hanging with family back on the east coast. The spanking that I took initially colored my opinion of the route, but, as typically happens, I tend to see things through rose colored glasses after a week or two of time to reflect on the climb. Having said all that, my initial take was that the route is far more adventurous, with more loose rock, and generally less aesthetic than some of the other newer routes in the range. Having just climbed Acid Baby a few weeks earlier, I thought Gorillas had a more difficult crux but generally less appealing climbing on a less aesthetic line. But, the West Stuart Wall is wild and adventurous, and the direct finish, which we did not do, looks like an excellent line. Now, with a few weeks of distance from the climb, I kind of want to go back - maybe. Pitch 1 Good morning! Tough 11- lead off the deck with a stout crux. Pitch 2 - The start of the two hanging corners. This pitch was pretty cool with a bit of loose rock in the corners. The end of the pitch is a bit messed up with potential for major drag, so think about managing the rope. The last few moves to the anchor are insecure and heads up but not especially difficult. Pitch 3 - The Jungle Traverse This thing must have been a beast to clean on the FA, because the rock that is left is still surrounded by a lot of lichen and blocks that look loose but are generally pretty sound after a few ascents. With the pitch cleaned up, it really climbs more like 5.10 than 5.10+ and protects fairly well - a fun and airy traverse on some funky rock. Pitch 4 - The "Yosemite" V-Slot. This is where things went bad for me. I started left off the belay instead of heading straight up and then blew a foot backing down and took a fall onto a yellow alien. From there, I eventually made my way up to and through the VSlot on ok but not great rock and then had some awful rope drag for the arete/inverted v that finishes the pitch. But I managed to build an anchor on a small ledge just above and to the right of the arete, which was above and to the climber's left of a two-bolt anchor and larger ledge. (Note - this rock will not remind you of Yosemite.) That's pretty much the last of the photos we got (all photos by Bohle - I busted my camera on pitch 1). I remember thinking pitch 5 was pretty cool until I pulled off a loose block. The move onto the ledge is really weird on rock with a serious lichen problem. The traverse was interesting - not sure we went far enough but we managed to find our way to the top from there. I don't think we ended up in the nice right facing corner, but we did catch the short 20 ft. hand crack right before the ridge crest. We walked down the West Ridge, which neither of us had climbed before, so we had to poke around a bit to find the notch that led into the correct gully. But once we found it, we were back at the packs in no time. I can't imagine rapping the route would be worth it, because it's a long and potentially complicated descent that will deposit you below your gear when you could walk right back to the packs at the pass. On the positive side, the West Stuart Wall is pretty big and the route offers some challenging climbing and route finding in a wild setting. On the down side, some of the rock is suspect, the route wanders a lot and doesn't take a really natural line, and the top out is kind of ho hum unless you switch gears into the West Ridge and summit. I'm sure the direct finish adds a lot of value, so maybe I'll have to go back and check it out. Gear Notes: 1 set of nuts, 1 set of c3s/aliens, 2 sets of cams to #3, 1 #4 10-12 slings with 2-3 double length runners Approach Notes: Simple
  6. Mike, the last bolts we saw were just to the climbers' right of the top of pitch 4 on a ledge above the vslot in the pic above. I couldn't see the stamp, but they looked like the rest. The pic and route overview Blake posted here is prolly your best bet for figgering it out. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/893015/3
  7. That's a pretty good story. Glad it turned out ok for you guys.
  8. A whipper on the traverse? Sounds like a good story. The last few moves in that wide horizontal are pretty interesting.
  9. NW Alpine Summer Closeouts

    Not seeing it at the link - how do you find the closeout specials on the site?
  10. buffalo wing sauce...

    Too funny. I just discovered this stuff like 3 weeks ago - its amazing on pizza!
  11. [TR] Mt Stuart - Girth Pillar 7/22/2012

    Nice work guys. Well done.
  12. [TR] Aasgard Pass - The Valkyrie 7/7/2012

    Nice work guys. We were the party of 2 on Acid Baby - great route. It was a beautiful day up there.
  13. Cue the skeptical haters . . . 3, 2, 1. Oh wait - too late. Nice work on your climb.
  14. Want to borrow a #5 c4

    I've got an old #5 you can borrow - in PDX.
  15. [TR] Monarch Icefield - 4/15/2012

    Righteous, Dan. Glad to see you're still getting after it.
  16. cry for help

    Not to be a downer, but if your boy is trying to move on from his past, posting his name, details of his personal history and his letter on the internet for the world to see may not be the best move. But I wish him the all the best and hope some of these suggestion pan out for him.
  17. Recommendations for a camera for climbing

    I recently picked up a Canon S95 - the prior gen to the S100 - which is about a $100 cheaper. The S100 has a new sensor, which is supposed to improve performance at high ISO but S95 is still a great camera. One take on the comparison - http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=2102.0.
  18. passive pro at Smith

    If you're only going to buy a couple of cams, check out the Link cams, because they have a much larger range then anything else on the market. They're popular for covering a larger range with fewer units on alpine routes. Otherwise, I'd go with the BD #1 and 2. A .75 is a good option as well but FWIW I think you're more likely to be able to find passive pro at a .75 size than a #2.
  19. Gunsight East Face

    Hey who said we didn't enjoy the route? Although the face on Dome looks pretty dope.
  20. 2012 Bird Closures

    http://smithrock.com/b2evolution/blog4.php The Monument at Smith Rock will be closed from February 15th to August 1.
  21. Cabin Location?

    This. Owning a cabin is something for old age - along with aid climbing, fly fishing, backpacking, owning a dog, and staying put. Flame away . . . But ... if you have cash (i.e. can't get financing) and don't mind living in a place that's on Forest Service land, Rimrock Lake is close to Tieton, LWorth, Vantage and has excellent access to B-C skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, etc.
  22. If you like Trout Creek...

    We put up a page with some basic information, suggested talking points and contact information for BLM officials. Please voice your opinion.
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