pms

yep, just like in the movie. Other benefit, not difficult to untie if wet/frozen.

do you mean the overhand knot? I saw they used it in the new eiger movie and it did not fail..

this is one of the reasons Peter and I chose the N. Face over the NE Butt. for our selected climbs book a few years ago. Better conditions more often was our thinking. Still as Dane points out neither climb has much ice very often. I think I've had ice most of the way only twice out of about 10. Once with a very happy Fred Beckey. It sounds like conditions now are worth jumping on. My guess is the good conditions will hold up for a while this year.

WOW 4 days of something - this last one sounds fun. one question, this Mt. Shuksan ski area - is it anywhere near Baker Ski area?

a bivy near the base is good because there is water. water could be an issue for some spots on the mtn.

for you Josh http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/videos/7574282

I found a couple vintage pics of Steve on the Coleman Glacier in 79.

Anyone recognize the guy third from the left, on the ground. Yep Jake Porter without a doubt.

nice story, and TR.

flu shots available

about 10 degrees in cle elum yesterday morning

nice job, looking forward to the pics

Scurlock would probably know, but I doubt it. I thought the Shuksan/Sulphide was a good suggestion for a climb once the weather improves, otherwise head east.

large icicle up there for YOU

sorry good point. I'm setting my sights on Baring, and Hood.

just the two of them - for sure alpine style all the way. I love how Cole and Jens just ran up there superlight and bivied. no caches, just go. Not taking anything away from Mark and Colin, those guys are my total heroes.

Buhl, Cole, Jens, Mark and Colin all show great style!

I'm with Sol on this one John.

could it be baring?

"this is my favorite alpine rock climb in the Cascades all year" Lunger - What else is on this list? Loved your TR Mr. Rat.

will it also "clean up nicely with more traffic"?

Nice list of climbs. You've probably heard rumors about some new climbs on Squire Cr. Wall. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/902823/Squire_Creek_Wall#Post902823 Supposed to be the Holy Greyell.

beauteeful

I have been down the west side a couple times, ledges and scree with a very short rappel or two (probably not mandatory).

I love Wayne's video. What a spectacular looking summits