Ade

The first issue of Christian Beckwith's Alpinist has finally arrived. Issue 1 features a profile of Changabang, Jack Tackle's epic on Mt Augusta and Mick Fowler's latest effort in China. Well worth a read. Ade

The MEC web site has driving directions including a map etc.

Give them cash, $40 US... For you that's less than 1c per post, pretty good value if you ask me.

The PNW isn't quite like Scotland unfortunately. It's generally not as cold and has much higher snowfall, so the avo hazard is higher and a lot of the routes get buried before they really form. High snowfall and lengthy approaches can also make winter routes a lengthy affair. There's no real equivalent to the Northern Corries in the Cascades, everything is more like a full on day on the Shelter Stone. There's nothing quite like the Clachaig either which is a damn shame. Normally by this time there's been a big dump of snow but the weather is being weird. Some stuff is in right now, like the Eldorado NW couloir at about Scottish III (1000') but other routes haven't formed due to dry conditions in the fall and warm weather right now. Having said that I'm hoping to get out a lot this winter PM me for more info. Cheers, Ade

Filters have a long way to go anyway.... Arsenal were at home last week so no shuffling the kit-kat with the ball and chain for me as the kipper is completely off limits. I'm no kakpipe cosmonaut neither so I'm left on my jack jones to have a sherman. Time to go out climbing until the sausage and donut situation improves. See you next Tuesday...

N Cascades Highway has also suffered from the warm temps caused by the inversion. I didn't see any real ice when I drove up as far as Colonial on Wednesday morning.

Finally tagged it! "SHE GO". Paco (glutton for punishment a second time) and I went in Friday and climbed the route Sat and descended the same day. Snow above the treeline is rough going, especially in the afternoon, took us over two hours to get from the base of the meadows to the base of the E Ridge, I guess Colin and the other party, who bivvied in above the Eldorado basin, had better snow conditions early morning. As Colin says the route in in good shape, not hard but fun. Paco and I followed Colin up having caught the other party of three on the glacier. I think there's slightly more neve than previously making the route faster, we only did three pitches and simul-climbed the rest (four hours from shrund to summit). We had originally planned to take it easy and descend Sunday (being slackers and assuming 7 hours for the route) but having summited early opted to head out the same day. Fantastic views from Rainier to Baker/Shuksan and beyond. Bonus climb considering it's supposed to be pouring with rain/snow by now. Basically Paco and I had a great time, kudos to him for being willing to do that grunt of an approach again after he'd already done the route. Ade

Route looked pretty much covered from Eldorado this weekend. The snowline is down to the trees at about 5500'. Expect 6"-1' of snow above that, with the current warm weather this means step kicking/postholeing anytime except early morning or on sheltered slopes.

Try this... Early Biological War on Native Americans (I'm not making any validity to the claims made within but it has lots of references etc and might be a good start)

I do have time, figure I can get out Wednesday if I can find someone for the other end of the rope.

I have a Das. Really like it. Nice big hood to go over a helmet, sized large to fit over all your climbing clothes. I really like the mesh glove drying pockets on the inside for belays. Used it in New England and BC last winter and wasn't cold. On the downside it's pretty big, if you're carrying it on multi-pitch ice routes then get a compression sack to hang off the back of your harness.

Any just in case anyone was wondering the climbs up at Alpental are even remotely in yet. I walked past a series of pretty waterfalls on Sunday morning.

Anyone up that way this last w/e? How much new snow and where does it start?

Reminds me of that ad for credit cards... "New climbing helmet, $70. New head, priceless. For everything else..."

Either Climbing or rock & Ice had an article on Little Switzerland. Not sure which issue but something in the last eighteen months. The library has them too I think. Might be another thing to look for.

I don't mean all the useless additional shit, "full featured" was probably a bad choice of words. The bottom end of the weight spectrum for alpine packs seems to be about 3lb if you look at packs with no gizmos; sack, lid pocket, minimal hip belt and back padding. You can cut it still further by ditching the lid etc. My Pod weighs 2lb 14oz (with lid), it's made of cordura and built to last but without any gizmos so it's light. I've not used a Gust but check out this Alpine sacks review. Seems to me it's certainly an option but you have to be a bit careful with it and know it's limitations and what you're using it for.

Yes... (No change from any other day really). I fear the weather may beat us to it.

Any full featured alpine pack weighing much less than 3lb is going to run into durability issues. Sounds like WildThings took "light is right" a wee bit too far.

I have some of both. The old style ones are duct taped. No real difference from the new ones in terms of use. Cavey's picture is of a shorty I have the longer ones (shock absorbing qualities are slightly different). I use them ice climbing but haven't had a lot of problems with either types getting wet and drying out. I use a lot of duct tape to keep the water out. Yates' Web Site

Mid June might be pushing in in the Yukon too. I've always gone there early/mid May to early June. By the time we've left it's getting really warm lower down. The last trip we climbed mainly at night or early morning and had most of the route started to melt out on us. No to mention a spot of rain on the glacier (distressing when you've left your goretex at home). Remember it's further south and much more coastal. Routes on Logan might be OK because it's higher but it would be worth doing a bit more research. The weather most certainly gets less stable. It's also worth noting that this season on Denali was a low snow year and then exceptionally warm in May/June. By early June the rangers were saying that the Kahiltna looked to be in July condition. [ 11-04-2002, 11:28 PM: Message edited by: Ade ]

I heard that Paul Claus was banned from Canadian airspace. I don't have the details, one of the a friend of mine has been looking into it and that's what he tells me. I don't know of anything wrong with Andy I'm just looking into the available options. Flying in from the South would be preferable.

And you actually believe the forecast?! Like they can get it right for Sunday on Thursday and you're taking their no snow for two months at face value. Lighten up... I say "no snow until New Year" is pretty much a guarentee we'll be buried in the stuff by Thanksgiving.

Nice one. Serves me right for getting sick in the week else I'd have been up there for another try. Oooohh! I'm soooo frustrated!

We had a shit load of gear with us and only placed a few screws because "falling down the lower couloir would be a real pain in the arse, we'd have to reclimb it." to quote my partner on the day. Remember when we did it there was a lot of snow. In leaner icier times you might want rock gear and more ice pro. [ 11-04-2002, 06:44 PM: Message edited by: Ade ]

quote: If every passenger fought back immediately, no terrorist could succeed. If every victim fought back immediately, no criminal could succeed. No one lives forever. And Trask wins a huge prize for gross oversimplification combined with dubious logic plus a small bonus prize for stating the glaringly obvious with "No one lives forever". I look forward to yet more informative posts from Mr T.