salbrecher

I'm reading this book "we all die alone" (true story) about a Norwegian who escapes from Nazi's in Norway and has to make his way back to Sweden and then England. This guy talks about and meets an old Norwegian who talks about what great skiers Norwegian's are and how todays generation is getting weak. He says "a Norwegian on holiday, or merely on a journey, thinks nothing of 50 miles a day". Maybe we're just weak, inferior skiers because we're north americans . I think it has a lot to do with state of mind. So many of us get used to bringing 50lbs of camping gear on a weekend trip and forget or don't realize that the same distance can often be covered by a "reasonably fit" person in way less time, with just day packs. Defanitly a great read.

there's a big snow couliar on the NF of JH. It goes right to the col between the 2 summits? Looked pretty simple from the plane.

This is a long shot but let me know if you know anything. I forgot somthing in someones car while hitch hiking in Whistler and i need to get a hold of her to get it back. All i know is that she owns a raft company (i don't know which one) in either squamish or whistler. She co-owned the company with her boyfriend but they broke up and is now in a court battle with him. she's pretty short, dark hair, muscular, good looking, and owns a truck with a flat bed. No i'm not trying to get her number to ask her out... I just happen to remember more about what she looks like than what she said about her comany name and what her car looks like. If you know who this is please get back to me!

Yea that looks like the one! How high is the steep part of the wall above the treed ramp? And is that a logging road that parallels the creek to right below it?

I flew from Vancouver to kamloops this morning and saw a pretty big and steep looking East facing wall (sort of like a mini chief) with a big treed ledge running accross at about half height. It was about 2-10km NNE of Judge Howay. Anyone know if this thing has any routes or if it would even be worth the grunt to get to it?

I believe Twight mentions pringles in an example of a food that someone ate to get up Makulu to show that you should eat whatever food you can eat at high altitude to get enough energy . I modified it to one should eat whatever food one likes, whenever.

Wow, wow, wow, that's 3 and a HALF hourst to elfin. Those wouldn't happen to be your boot tracks Drew walking DOWN the sentinal would they...

Climb: Garibaldi Neve- Date of Climb: 4/8/2004 Trip Report: 10 car rides and 12hrs after leaving Kamloops I arrived at the Garibaldi lake trailhead at 5:00pm. The plan was to start around midnight and carry over to Squamish in one go but the evening light was so nice I started shortly after being dropped off. I blasted the first few km of trail in runners and listening to my newly purchased "Lion King soundtrack" Tape (highly reccomended). The lake and trail were in excellent condition and it was a quick 3 hrs to the Sentinal Bay huts. 3 other guys from vancouver were also there after comming over the neve and gave me some of their leftover pasta with smoked salmon, mmmm. I curled up in the hut and slept a few chilly hours till i couldn't stand the cold and left for squamish at 5:45am. The sunrise was SPECTACULAR and there was a 3/4 moon between Garibaldi and Dalton Dome and alpen glow everywhere! So nice that I even put the lion king soundtrack into my backpack, for the time being. It was an super fast ski down the neve to ring creek on hard pack snow. 3 and a half hours after leaving Sentinal I was basking in the sun at the Elfin Lakes cabin and eating the rest of my chocolate and pringles. I was even lucky enough to catch a ride so early in the morning from the parking lot into squamish! It is a fantastic traveres with fabulouse conditions right now and I highly reccomended doing it. Gear Notes: Light and fast was the name of the game (re read pertaining chapters in extreeee alpinism if you must. I brought no sleeping bag or stove as running water is available in several spots along the traverse. I wish I had brought a light sleeping bag instead of just a down jacket as it was pretty chilly at night. Approach Notes: All the crevasses are well bridged and the lake is still well frozen. The shrund on Garibaldi is also well bridged.

Who here cooks in their tent? I cook in the vesitibule but thats about it. Sometimes it's still to windy to cook in the there and the tent fills up with spindrift while stirring or adding snow. I'm still a little leary about full on in the tent cooking though. How much ventilation should I leave? Some people say you should be able to feel the wind on your face in the tent if cooking to ensure proper ventilation; others have said that their is always enough ventilation without opening doors.

Is the reverse true in the States? Do cars with canadian plates get broken into more often? I'll probably be road tripping in the U.S. for a few months this year, Yosemite, red rocks, J tree, Sierras?

Left the wrong impression?! You have a link called "Your Guide" . You can cook for me and carry my loads though!

We're both wrong, it's April

We're looking for a 4th person to join our Lucania/Steele team. The flight in will be cheaper with a 4th or if your a real cheapskate and have more time you can ski in from the alaska highway 10-14 days longer with our 5th person. The 3 of us who are flying in will leave April 24th from vancouver. The one skiing in (can't afford to fly) will leave 2 weeks earlier. All of us will ski out. PM if interested or for more details. Stefan Albrecher

On a related topic, do most of you use static lines for your haul and tag line? If so how thick?

Off topic but... I was at an avalanche workshop a few months back and low and behold, Werner Munter (inventor of the hitch) was the guest speaker! When i saw him in the lobby I thought he was a homeless guy; next thing I know he's up on stage speaking.

I find that trying routes that are pushing my limit or past my limits are the best way of progressing. If i try routes that are near my limit it makes me realize what I can and cannot do. If i don't try the harder routes i won't know what I can do. I end up failing on a lot of routes but the success' (though fewer) boosts confidence and skill. The plus side is that i'm quite good at retreating! Start leading easy WI and get good at aid climbing (Squamish). I feel if I can lead WI next to the highway I can do it 2000ft up some face. (Lillooet has a lot of easy/moderate ice. Aid climbing allows me to get on bigger routes and cheat on sections if it gets to hard , it's also great for getting used to exposure and gear managment.

If my feet grow another half size they won't make a shell BIG enough for me!

What do you find are some good systems or tricks for cleaning roofs and traverses on solo aid? When rapping down after leading a roof pitch to clean it, how do you get back under the roof? Cliping a quickdraw from my harness to the lead rope seems most logical. And traverses?

Should I size down one size on plastic shells if I’m putting intuition liners in them? Will it make the boots to constricting? The obvious answer would for me to bring them into the store and see; however, I may be buying online, and if people unanimously agree to size down I can save a trip to the store.

Anybody have any opinions of the old style koflach boots (usually neon)? How are they in cold temps? Stiffness? They'd be used for ice climbing and alpine but could will also be used, occasionaly, for cold higher altitude trips. I have the scarpa vegas and they're falling appart. I really liked them but don't want to shell out another $400 for a new pair. Plus, the old style Koflachs look sooo cool; In all the cool 1980's pictures of Europe and the Himalaya the climbers are wearing them . I wouldn't buy this pair but this is the style i'm talking about. I've seen quite a few of them on e bay.

I read Reinhold messner's book "the seventh grade" and he mentions he took cold showers to increase circulation to his hands and feet. Any body know if you can actually increase your bodies circulation by doing this? Is it physicly possible to acclimate your body like this? I started doing this the other day with hopes that one day my circulation will be as good as Messner's; all i achieved from it was nearly passing out and really, REALLY freezing my testicals off. Mark Twight's ginko and asprine are starting to look like better methods...

CAJ 1982 has about 7-8 routes in the tombstones to. Seems like a lot of 200m-2000m mid 5th routes.

You free from Feb 15th-21st? Check out my post in "climbing partners" forum. Stefan Albrecher

Looking for a partner with a car to head to the rockies during reading week. I'll lead WI 3 and have screws and rope. I'd be just as happy to follow hard stuff or practice leading easier ice. Dates are somewhat flexible but i'd like to go for as long as possible. Stefan Albrecher

I was watching "6th Day" (swartznegger) and there's a scene where they're flying a chopper through a tight canyon and the sides of the cliff walls are plastered with frozen waterfall after waterfall. I know the movie was shot in vancouver and as soon as they fly out of the canyon they're over the north shore. It's crafty editing as i know it's not near vancouver but has anyone else seen this and know where it is? Shitty, horrible movie by the way.