salbrecher

Climbed Wait For Spring and Deeping Wall in Marble Canyon on Saterday and sunday. The climbs were thin but pretty dry on Saterday and on Sunday Deeping Wall was melting fast. Dales Route left of WFS had ice all the way to the ground but was thin. No pitches of IcyBC touch the ground. Crown lake was cruxy but walkable.

Do any of you have or know someone who has a very cheap room or closet they will rent me for a few months in the Canmore or banff area? I just want a place to sleep and cook. very little stuff.

I took a 40 footer solo on a Gri Gri and my biggest fall 2 days ago on pitch 5 an A3 pitch on Wet Denim Daydream on leaning tower. I'd back cleaned most of my gear (i have a small rack) to a chicken bolt 20 ft below. I was on a hook placing a copper head and the hook pulled. ripped a micro nut and a aluminum head. I landed sidways with a rock pinacle 5ft below me. I retreated after that...

Lambone and I were in the lodge drinking free coffee refills and in the meadow watching the rescues. We tentativly fixed one pitch on the north america wall in the rain the first day of the storm and pulled our ropes the next day. The japanese were in a waterfall at camp 6 when the storm hit. no bivy sacs or portaledge. YOSAR yelled up to them with a loudspeaker (2 days into the storm) in japanese to scream if they wanted a rescue. In a full blown storm we could here the female scream and shout 30 or so pitches up. Within the hour the japanese started climbing up in a waterfall leaving sleeping bags at camp 6. After the storm a friend with a good scope could see the japanese's ropes fixed at the alcove a few pitches from the top and the japanese were hanging at the end of their ropes with all their gear. Dave the soloeist was one slab pitch below the top when the storm hit and his gear is still there and he is ready to go up and finish his climb. The first solo of Tempest.

As bDubyaH said it's very easy to hitch from Whitehorse if you fly. At the time I got free flights since my dad works for the airlines so i flew up and met up with the gang in whitehorse. They drove up from Vancouver.

I'm just using my brothers car. I'll look for a van when I come back.

I can't really think of a reason why it wouldn't be ok to equalize a gear anchor with a daisy chain, or two if you didn't have a sling. Is there?

Whats the best way to clean dirty rigid friends. They spring back really slowly.

I have room for a person an will be leaving mid next week. I'm available to climb if you don't have a partner. I'll be down there for anywhere from 2 weeks to a month so you might have to find a ride back if your not as flexible ( read, unemployed). Aid, trad or alpine in the sierras. Not so good at aid and lead 10s on gear.

It was $370CND/person/flight this year, landing around Mt Steele area below Mt Walsh.

I was comming down from Northern BC yesterday, where the leaves started turning a month ago and are already falling, to vancouver where almost nothing is yellow. It felt like going from late fall to summer in 14hrs. Quite the time warp.

I'll be there early october. I don't know how long i'll stay. At least a few weeks though. I most likely have a vehicle but like I said I don't know when I'll be comming back.

The heat must really suck while rock climbing or sitting at your desk... Try carring around a 50lb sack o spruce trees in this heat and sweating 5-10L trying to plant 2000 of them in a day. Oh the joy! Luckly treeplanting ended last week and I get to upgrade to a 60lbs backpack of herbicide spray. Wearing coveralls is horrible in this heat. I want to die. Now I get to go back to my sauna of a hotel room at the Prince George Hotel. You can't even sleep on the bed it's so hot so we sleep on the floor. Better sun than rain. Have fun on the rocks and thank the gods your not in Prince George or ft. st. john or chetwynd or whatever shithole they send us to next.

If falls on snow count I slid, tumbled, and flipped down pretty much the whole gully on the south side of Shuksan a few years ago. how far is that, 300-400ft? Only thing that got wrecked were my goretex pants from my ice axe ripping them and some skin missing from sliding on snow at high speed.

I'll probably be heading to the Bugs late August and was wondering what you found was a good boot/shoe and crampon system to keep things light (specificly for the Bugaboos). Since it's August the snow should be pretty hard and I was thinking of just bringing approach shoes and aluminum crampons. Do you think that system would be to flimsy for approaches from the hut?

One more cluster fuck to add to the mix will be the large group of VOCers (varsity outdoors club) "son of rock" instructional event at the bluffs. WATCH OUT!

Yes, he does.

Anyone from Vancouver area, who has a car, want to ski Baker tommorrow? Stefan Albrecher 604 536-9349

Any room for a 3rd?

It's C3 rafting.

I saw yours and fern's tracks down the sentinal and it looked like terrible ski conditions, a whole mixed bag of conditions. Did you guy's take the high or low route from the sharks fin. I went high to avoid the few crevasses and to lengthen the ski run down! Congrats on your first trip over the neve drew. We should meet up for some Garabaldi granite in september. I Love that area!

For god sakes people, loosen your boots!

He's a rude kook, and, get over it.

Are you learning on mountaineering boots?

Haha, no he doesn't die. It's not giving away anything because he helps write it.